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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I've had the P300 for a while, but because it isn't my sole PJ it's been getting a bit of the "back burner" at times. I recently switched back to it for netflix duty and I keep underestimating how nice it looks when directed at a modest (110") white screen in the dark. I decided in my re-obsessed mindstate that taking a bunch of pictures would be fun..so.. Commence picture dump!


How could anyone not enjoy something the size of a sandwich putting out images this nice at 4X the size of a TV while costing less than some projectors' replacement lamps? It deserves more love.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
I will warn that its default settings look pretty bad. The good news is it takes about 15seconds to fix that. The P300 has Brightness, Contrast, Color, Sharpness controls that can be used with most inputs including HDMI and USB (a Tint control is also added for RCA/composite source). There is also a single-point white-balance that is of use in limited amounts (found out it's nice to have for warming up B&W film).

For my particular unit, Brightness looks best around 51-53, Contrast around 47-50, color at 30-35, and sharpness 25. I tend to leave WB at default medium (50/50/50) which is a touch warmer than D65 I believe, but the PJ pulls it off well. You can get away with a little cranking on the contrast/color/sharpness for a few more limited range programs for a punchier image, but these more subdued settings allow for a very natural looking, simple, plug'n'play experience without any annoying clipping or obvious banding.

There's a typical caveat that settings that are dead-on for one device will likely not be perfect for another (even if they are the same model), but these numbers are both fairly loose AND a long ways off from the defaults, so they are still apt to be a lot better than the presets.

The attached patterns can be saved and played directly from a USB thumbdrive or microSD card and used to test clipping for:
Brightness (black bar)
Contrast (white bar)
Color (three RGB rectangles)
as well as
Sharpness halos (grey squares with black shapes inside)
Rough greyscale uniformity (20 segment bar)
Color anomalies (RGBW transition circle)

Setting from using pictures direct from usb/sd on the p300 will also give solid results for the hdmi-input and VGA, while giving passable results for RCA.
Questions are welcome.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
I saw that The Fifth Element is on netflix and decided to give that a try. It's only working on my PC at StandardDefinition, but the P300 scales well and my personal copy is on VHS. Instead of pausing the video (like I probably should have) I just let it play, took about 50 pictures, then deleted the really blurry ones (which got rid of 80%). For SD netflix it looks alright.





 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Did the forum make the first post go "POOF"? That's worrisome. :(
Ooh it's back, fixed already in the same day. Nice work fixer folks! :)
 

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That's weird. I read all of your posts related to LED projectors because I find them to be interesting and informative. I sure didn't see anything wrong with your post that disappeared.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Wow, thanks for the kind words. I mentioned the problem in the "needs to be fixed" thread and was told another user reported a similar problem today and they're looking into it. Hopefully they'll reappear (other folks' too), but what a strange thing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Here are some examples of how the P300 performs in less-than-favorable situations and somewhat extreme sizes.

I've mentioned before that this room is a good worst-case scenario with its white walls, plentiful mirror-backed cabinets, and generous surround of windows (that are often not curtained because..I have no excuse really, there's simply no good reason not to have curtains on these windows). So here are some pictures that both show how lousy this room really is AND the little P300 trying to overfill a 99"-WIDE image (16:9 diagonal is around 115") with 130-140 lumens while powered by an outlet.



It's probably worth mentioning that this rebel fighter scene was part of a very long video with a collection of music and movie (mostly animated) clips that I was letting play for a bit of background music and in such a casual setting the video was surprisingly adequate..though I'd never suggest any real movie viewing or anything that requires actual attention under these horrible light conditions. So.. yeah, it was music and occasional video while reading and half paying attention, and it was completely pleasant for this purpose.


Here is the 12foot wide parklandplastic screen getting overfilled to fill its 8foot height (around a 190"-195 16:9 image). The P300 is powered by its internal battery in this shot and outputting around 90-99lumens.
 

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I saw that The Fifth Element is on netflix and decided to give that a try. It's only available in StandardDefinition, but the P300 scales well and my personal copy is on VHS. Instead of pausing the video (like I probably should have) I just let it play, took about 50 pictures, then deleted the really blurry ones (which got rid of 80%). For SD netflix it looks alright.
The Fifth Element on Netflix is 1080p with Dolby Digital Plus sound. The fact that you are seeing it only in SD is due to the equipment you're using to stream the video.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The Fifth Element on Netflix is 1080p with Dolby Digital Plus sound. The fact that you are seeing it only in SD is due to the equipment you're using to stream the video.
Hmm. I know it lets me select HD allow for other films and my PC thinks it is feeding a 1080 display, so it must've been a Netflix hiccup day. I've had movies do odd things before on Netflix where they've behaved previously and I'd doublechecked that it wasn't a PC related problem. I'll have to look again, maybe move my tired router closer as well just in case..thanks for the heads-up.
At any rate, during those pictures it was locked in standard definition play.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
I finally shot some video of the p300 both in the dark and with lights on (an 800lumen bulb facing the screen and two dimmer LED spotlights facing away). The screen is currently 98inches wide (about 112" 16:9) and reflecting ~4ftL.



This last version is with the ceiling-lights rotated so the brightest light is facing away from the screen and down toward the seating instead (more realistic scenario, more useful) and the dim LED spotlights are off.


It's crazy how much better it looks (even such a low-lumen projector) after a little "light control".
Ironically, a light-rejecting screen would do nothing for this situation because the light is overhead plus farther back in the room (over the seats) and hits the screen at the perfect angle to wash-out a light-rejecting screen!
 

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what's the longest you've left it on? sometimes i've passed out on a friday night netflix (or rather amazon) binge to wake up 4 hours after the multi-episode session...
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
what's the longest you've left it on? sometimes i've passed out on a friday night netflix (or rather amazon) binge to wake up 4 hours after the multi-episode session...
I've left it playing through most of the night outside a couple times (go inside..forget the PJ sitting on the tripod in the grass) and I too have passed-out while watching through into the night (Usually with it trying to play through an entire 64gb flash-drive of videos). I don't think it's been left on for over 8hours, but I can't imagine it having any trouble with running all day for something.

You can check the internal temp in the service-menu, it starts around 45degrees and rises to a low/mid 50-something in the first couple minutes and then stays there for all eternity..even if the room is way too hot. The thermal danger-zone is around 75degrees by default I think. ..I turned it down to around 65, but haven't seen it get anywhere close.

Service menu is (with the remote) click the input button, then click volume up, down, up, down. Also, there's another menu if you click input and then volume down, up, down, up. The longer list is the actual service-menu and it has most of the fun stuff like editing the presets and not just the user settings (makes the presets actually useful) and it allows you to edit the tint control even while using HDMI (normally it's just for RCA/analog) it also lets you play with both white-balance low and high instead of just the high..though the standard 50/50/50 is still best balance as far as I can tell.

...done rambling now. :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
ah, looks like i answered my own question as to whether there was a zoom or not (no) and distance to achieve a certain screen size: http://www.aaxatech.com/products/p300_pico_projector.htm

also, that service menu info was useful, too!
Sadly there are only a couple LED models just shy of $1000 that offer optical zoom.

The p300 uses a 1.4:1 (distance : screen-width) throw-ratio which is pretty common. It equals out to giving about 10inches diagonal for every foot of throw-distance. AKA, 3ft-throw gives a 30" image, 11ft-throw gives a 110" image.
 

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Service menu is (with the remote) click the input button, then click volume up, down, up, down. Also, there's another menu if you click input and then volume down, up, down, up. The longer list is the actual service-menu and it has most of the fun stuff like editing the presets and not just the user settings (makes the presets actually useful) and it allows you to edit the tint control even while using HDMI (normally it's just for RCA/analog) it also lets you play with both white-balance low and high instead of just the high..though the standard 50/50/50 is still best balance as far as I can tell.
is there a way to get out of the service menu without powering it off?

also, wow, the P450 is a light cannon! (i also almost accidentally ran it blocking the air intake at the bottom. thankfully, i had some small pieces of wood i could cut into pieces to raise it above the camera tripod mount)
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
is there a way to get out of the service menu without powering it off?

also, wow, the P450 is a light cannon! (i also almost accidentally ran it blocking the air intake at the bottom. thankfully, i had some small pieces of wood i could cut into pieces to raise it above the camera tripod mount)
On the p300 you just click the remote's back/return button once or.twice..also I think the menu button might take the p300 out of service menu, but I'll have to doublecheck.

P300 only has vents on the back and front (and tiny ones on the side..not sure if they're vents or speaker points), sad to hear regular tripod mount can block the p450 vents.
How would you describe the p450 fan-noise?
I've hears at least one review call it quiet, but I'd expect it to sound like an overheating laptop like most small bright projectors do.

Any likes/dislikes you can mention, or other projectors you can compare it to (if you've seen any in the past or while shopping)?
 

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ohhhhh, THAT "back" button at the bottom right of the remote. was just about to give up testing it and decided to press ALL of the buttons on the remote



yeah, it's like 150% the noise of an overheating laptop. but for what i paid, i'm happy.

the only downside so far is that the color seems hard to fix/adjust. it looks realistic and/or balanced, but at the same time reds are a bit too intense.

oh, and i can't figure out how to get it to run at 120hz. guess i need to bug tech support for that.

also, i'm experiencing tearing that i didn't have with the HC4000. i've tried a bunch of different render surfaces as well as AMD's Smooth Video Playback. i haven't tried a computer with Aero enabled yet, tho.

my IN4805 was moderately loud, but at a lower frequency. i don't think i had to adjust it. my HD70 shifted to the yellow or green, which i knew about ahead of time, thankfully (due to this very forum). it was pretty quiet. my HC4000 seemed perfect out of the box, too (i can't remember if i had to change 1-2 notches on R or G or B or whatever the units were, or if i ended just going back to defaults). it was the quietest of the projectors i've had.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
yeah, it's like 150% the noise of an overheating laptop. but for what i paid, i'm happy.

the only downside so far is that the color seems hard to fix/adjust. it looks realistic and/or balanced, but at the same time reds are a bit too intense.
Hopefully tech-support will help with the 120Hz..and possible tearing (though I've never seen it with the p300 or LG, so I'm not sure where it comes from).
Aaxa tech support is all handled by one guy it seems, so it's an interesting experience, lol.

I'll make sure to pass on the info about noise-levels. Do you find the fan-noise annoying during movies or games when there's a quieter scene or does it tend to become background noise that you don't notice much?

The p300 has a similar deal with strong red/magenta at the peak (stoplights/breaklights and certain bright magenta's in cartoons). Turning the color setting down from 50-ish to about 33 gets really nice color without the oversaturated look on the p300..it might be worth a shot on the p450.
 

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i haven't watched anything serious since getting it, tho i DID check out a few scenes from Kingsman.

i'm assuming it will be quite noticeable during a quiet movie, but at this point, i mainly bought it as i was tired of squinting at a 19" monitor from across my bedroom.

as for tearing, i wonder if the HC4000 had some kind of hardware (like more forgiving timing clock? i'm out of my league on video tech terms here) that made it sync to the image better. Windows 10 (whatever overlay Vista, 7, 8 also uses) helped 99.9%, but i still see tearing every once in a while. it's really bad on my Server 2008 R2 box that did the HC4000 just fine.
 
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