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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
For those of you who have the Accent HT-200 case by Kanam, and have purchased their IR interface with the IR-100 remote, I wanted to post a method to actually make the IR interface work. I can't take credit for figuring it out, but it did take me forever to weed through a bunch of threads to finally find an answer.


There seemed to have been many threads on different forums explaining that most people simply gave up on this hardware for something easier (more common) to use. A very frustrating business, especially since the manufacturer (Kanam) and the dealer (Digital Connection) offered virtually no help.


The solution is this:


Download and install the free program WinLirc. Set it up for an RX type interface with the appropriate settings for your setup (e.g. com port #).


Go through the Learn process to teach WinLirc the codes for your remote. This process is made easy by on-screen instructions at every step of the way. Very nice. (I don't think that Girder can be running during this process).


I then use Girder (the powerful automation software) to control the computer. You must first install the WinLirc plug-in from the Girder site.


After this is complete, Girder easily recognizes and interprets signals from the remote.


Hope this helps,

Phil
 

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I was just able to get Girder running without using WinLIRC on my Accent HT-200 with the IR module.

I enabled the UIR/IRman/IRA/... plugin.

I am currently using Com1, set the plugin to Universal Infrared Remote, checked all the checkboxes and left the IR Speed alone.


I tried breifly with my 2116 remote and was able to successfully learn some events.
 

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I've followed the manual to install the Kanam ir kit. The power button won't turn on the pc through the ir board, and the Accent remote won't turn on the pc either. I've tried reversing the leads, but no luck. Should I replace the ir board? Has anyone had a Kanam ir kit show no signs of life at all? TIA
 

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If everything is wired up correctly (as per the instructions) and the remote won't even turn the power on, then there is a fault. Since the power-on doesn't use the serial port at all.


Tim
 

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Quote:
Originally posted by TwinkE
I was just able to get Girder running without using WinLIRC on my Accent HT-200 with the IR module.

I enabled the UIR/IRman/IRA/... plugin.

I am currently using Com1, set the plugin to Universal Infrared Remote, checked all the checkboxes and left the IR Speed alone.
Just wanted to thank you for this tip. I've tried it and early indications are that it works much more reliably than Igor (here at least).


Tim
 

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Quote:
Originally posted by timjand
It works much more reliably than Igor (here at least).
Spoke too soon :(


It is reliable in that it starts up fine and always receives codes, but I'm now finding that the codes it receives are inconsistent. In other words, the same button on the remote sometimes sends different codes, and sometimes different keys send the same codes. Not much use unless I can find a fix. Ideas welcome :)


Tim
 

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Quote:
Originally posted by pmd918
Download and install the free program WinLirc. Set it up for an RX type interface with the appropriate settings for your setup (e.g. com port #).


I then use Girder (the powerful automation software) to control the computer. You must first install the WinLirc plug-in from the Girder site.
Phil, I should have taken your word for it. I've now tried Igor along with sundry other serial plugins for Girder, and I've ended up with WinLirc. It's working very well. I did the serial connector mod, I don't know if it is necessary for WinLirc. In summary, I found:


Igor works but seemed to cause problems. Eg. it didn't load correctly when I ran Girder for the first time after start-up; then I would quit and re-run Girder and it worked. Sometimes gave error messages for no reason I could see.


Several of the the other serial plugins almost work, but fail to get consistent signals from the remote, so you can't reliably match keys to functions.


WinLirc works perfectly. I think it is because it has a high built-in tolerance, so works well with cheap hardware. Most important, I have set up everything to auto-start, so I can switch on and get music playing (not done TV or DVD yet) without needing to have a mouse or keyboard attached. I've done the same with LCD Smartie 5.2 - very cool :)


The Kanam kit seems to be a good basic design spoilt by cost-cutting. Eg how do they get away with charging premium prices and not bothering to document any of the specs for these add-ons, or supplying any software to make them work?


Tim
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Tim,


Glad to see you got it working. I did not have to do the serial connector mod, so it sounds like it will work both ways.


I agree with you 100% about Kanam. I sent a nasty email to the company that sold me the case, and they simply blamed the manufacturer for failing to give them the information. Pretty sad, really.


Phil
 
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