AVS Forum banner
  • Take part in a short activity and share your valuable opinion on new design concepts for AVSForum! >>> Click Here
  • Our native mobile app has a new name: Fora Communities. Learn more.

Acoustiblok experience or alternative?

11048 Views 8 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  Ted White
Anybody have any experience with Acoustiblok or similar rubber material to block noise? Is it worth it? Would be about $1000 to treat my 14x17 room ceiling.

Acoustiblok is twice the STC of Econo-Barrier by AMI and twice the price. Not sure I need the additional STC for the ceiling in my 2 channel listening room that will have 3 sides poured concrete and one double wall toward the furnace area. Kitchen and laundry above.


Even the non-econo version does not have the same STC values as Acoustiblok but is essentially the same price.


Planned on filling the ceiling joists with 8 inches of OC pink unfaced and then attaching the rubber to the joist bottoms. Then a drop ceiling using 3/8" drywall panels and then treating the walls and ceiling with the necessary sound panels. Double exterior doors (inner and outer).
Not open for further replies.
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Don't bother with it. It's only purpose is adding mass. You get more mass per square foot, at less cost, by adding a second layer of drywall (5/8"). If you want real improvement, install green glue between the two layers of drywall.

As another point, STC has very little merit as a metric for home theater or music playback environments. STC only considers frequencies down to the 1/3 octave centered at 125 Hz. Your playback content goes much lower than that. The manufacturers of these products should know better and publish TL numbers. If they don't publish, or make available the TL numbers from a certified testing facility, look elsewhere. Also, you cannot add the STC value for the product to the STC of a wall and arrive at the total STC value. It just doesn't work that way.
Ah Dennis, finally a response. So if I have a drop ceiling using 3/8 drywall panels and 8" OC above that in the joists, I'm good to go?

It's in a narrow basement section 3 sides poured concrete and I only have one wall to an open space that will be 2 walls actually in parallel. I'll have to connect these to the joists and or fill that space so sound does not leak out (more concerned about the in - furnace, hot water htr exh fan, footsteps above).

So the vinyl really does not "block" sound then. mmm...

And STC is all they give you to go on, so....as you said.
Dennis did not say it fails to blocks sound - he just said you can spend less on greenglue and extra drywall and block more sound for less money.

If you are space constrained to the point that the thickness difference between drywall and MLV cost a lot of money in wasted space - then by all means use the thinner stuff. Usually HT's are not costly per quarter inch of wasted space....unless your wife plans to divorce you for loosing an inch of room. That could get costly if she gets half the finished HT.

BTW stay off sites that think foam is soundproofing material. soundproofing is impossible - as the very STC/TL numbers they promote will tell you can get a reduction in transmitted sound - but you cannot make something "soundproof" - and it is certainly never going to happen with foam. Sites like that wish to part your wallet from your common sense by babbling technical sounding terms to make you think they have done their research.

AcousticBlock has the TL curves of itself - but what they are not telling you is what alternative assemblies are just as effective or better. What they are telling you is your wall is better if you use it - what they are not telling - is the stuff better than using drywall instead of the MLV?. Ask yourself why that is?
See less See more
Do I need double drywall on the poured concrete walls?
PAD nice HT. you door way it just like mine. Would you mine sharing how you constructed the door?

thanks :)

You would want to avoid spending a great deal of time and money on the ceiling only to have sound sneak through a side wall and up into your joists.

See here: http://audioalloy.com/understandingFlankingNoise.pdf
Thanks Ted. I perused that site last night. What I was concerned about initially was the foot traffic through the kitchen and out the back door finding its way down through the ceiling into my space as I listen. I was not concerned about me polluting the kitchen with sound.

So now I think what you are saying is if the walls pass sound out to the concrete and it passes up and over and drops back down onto my ceiling tile then I've lost the battle? Still a little foreign to me how the sound I generate will negatively impact me in the same room.

I am attaching the upper portions of the walls to the concrete with angle brackets and not attaching to the joists above to keep them detached. What's the best way to "plug" that leak? Insulation?

My paradigm was that if I seal that off then I still have sound coming down from above and I was looking to create as many barriers as practical over my drop ceiling and then add some added mass by putting in ceiling tiles that were 3/8" drywall. So I had envisioned 8" insulation in the ceiling joists, some barrier like MLV, airspace, then drop ceiling with some mass to it.
See less See more

Just re-read your original post. This dropped ceiling you're discussing... This is planned to be 2x2 or 2x4 panels in a suspended track? If this is the case, this will always be the primary source of sound transmission. Such a system realistically can't be sealed well, and has so little mass.

Can you consider placing double drywall on the ceiling? That's a very significant start. If you're primary concern is isolating footfal noise from above, you might consider damping that subfloor above. You can achieve good results by adding GG + drywall to the underside of the floor. Do this from below, between the joists.

Add fiberglass insulation between the joists. The Kinetics or PAC clips with hat channel + double drywall and GG complete the ceiling picture.

Footfall noise is a real bear to deal with.
See less See more
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Not open for further replies.