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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well I originally posted in the general theater forum for some ideas for some curtains and such, but I have now decided to go all out with acoustic treatments, paint, columns, crown mold, etc. (how the heck did buying a ceiling mount for my projector turn into this?!?!?)


The room is 15W x 18L to the back closets (see pics below), with a another 3 foot walk between the closets to the doors Ceiling is 10' tall at the high point.


Here is my current equipment, all this is random stuff I have accumulated over the years and I don't plan on upgrading anything to soon do to cost (next on the list to upgrade is the projector):


Denon 3805 reciever

Klipsch KSP 300 Towers

Klipsch SW10 Subwoofer

Old Snell THX Certified Center Channel (hand me down)

Harmon Kardon Surrounds (from previous owner)

ViewSonic PJ1200 (not to bad actually considering its age...I was suprised)

Xbox 360 for DVD's and games


Here is the old setup with a 75" 4:3 screen (left by previous owner):


Update: Here is the room in its current (finished for now...) state:







First order of business that I did last week:


-Built a 110" BOC Screen following some of the guides in the DIY Screen Forum. I used the 2-frame method for the border, which actually turned out to be a bit of pain getting it to align correctly after all the fabric was on. I used Joan's BOC and black velvetine (was $30 instead of $16 for felt but looks 10x better, real velvet was twice as much as the velvetine!)


-Rerouted the wiring for the equipment to a back closet instead of under the screen. Bought 170' of 16 gauge 2-conductor wire (shielded/fire proof stuff used to pre-wire houses) and 35' of coax to route everything to the back closet. Luckily there is a attic/storage space on either side of the room, so running the wire was easy enough. I also bought the terk leapfrog system for $50 so all my remotes will work and it works great (just need to make the transmitter more stealth). Now just have to cover the wires on the front wall which is a 2nd floor exterior masonry wall (more on this below). I still need to zip tie and make everything tidy in the attic space:




-Mounted the center channel above the screen in the below pic, I have now decided to mount it below the screen so it is more level with the towers.


-Ceiling Mounted the Projector 19 feet back from the screen. This distance lines up with the back closet. I cut a hole in the top of the closet to get above the ceiling to run the wires without tearing up the sheet rock in the room. Works great with a pretty decent picture for an older projector.


-Blacked out the windows using black trashbags



Here is what it looks like so far:


Front:



Back:



I have ordered black velvet curtains for either side of the screen (walmart ones for $10 each).


Now the fun part, I plan on ironing out the design this week and next and starting on the construction within a couple weeks.


I will build a "stage" that will block the wires and such on that front wall as well as providing a stand for my center channel. There will also be a channel for purple rope light (shining down) at the top of the wall part (right below the screen border). I also plan to do the rope light behind the screen up on top. The stage will probably be covered in black faux suede but will light up purplish from the rope lights:



I plan to build crown molding at the top of the walls where it meets the angle. I haven't completely got the design worked out yet, but I think the simplest method is to bolt a 1x1 to the studs, then nail a 1x4 into that (from underneath), then attach the crown molding to the 1x4. Additional support will be provided by the columns. This will also provide an area for rope lighting (I plan on using purple rope lights on a dimmer).



I plan to make the columns fairly simple, using 1x4's for the sides and a 1/4" sheet on the front, then just make a rectangle out of trim. One long rectangle I think will look best due to the short height - it should help make the columns seem taller. Some trim around the top would look nice, but would require that the crown mold tray stick out further, and given the low height I don't want people to see the rope lighting inside (its only 6.5 feet high) I will mount these to the wall putting a 2x4 on the inside back of the column, then drilling into that from behind the wall. This way I can remove them later for whatever reason, and the mount is completely hidden (remember there is dead attic space behind these walls, so I can just add a 2x4 between the studs wherever the columns are).




Using 2 columns 9 inches wide on each wall will leave 53" spaces between them. This was key due to fabric primarily coming in 54" widths, as this will leave me enough room to staple the fabric on the sides of the frames. I haven't decided exactly how to do the acoustic treatments - 1" 703 fiberglass would be great but I'm hoping I can find something thats 3/4" thick instead so I don't have to do any goofy sizing (it will be much easier to just use 1 x whatever rather than having to rip boards down to 1 inch thick for the fabric frames). I haven't decided on fabric, but I think a purple faux suede or something would be really cool.




As far as colors, I am searching for a dark purple fabric to use on the stage and sidewalls. The Columns/crown mold/doors/trim will all be repainted a satin black (flat black is to much of a hassle in these high touch areas). I plan to paint the ceiling and above the screenwall area flat black. I will probably higher a painter for this part due to how much I hate painting ceilings and the difficulty in using flat black without roller marks. I'll repaint the back walls around all those doors a satin black as well most likely. One other note, the fabric frames will only go back to those side doors to the attic spaces, which is where the 177" total length comes from as far as column spacing. I'll just paint that last area black. The shading differences in the blacks in the pics is just to show the detail, it will all be the same color in the actual theater.


Eventually I will recarpet, but for now I'm hoping to end up with something that looks a little like this:



Other thoughts:

Possibly mount the side speakers in the rear columns, as their current position behind the listener and up high is not ideal.


Possibly still use sconces between the columns. My current sconces are on a dimmer switch and I am thinking about using their wiring for my rope lights.


I'm still working out the best/simplest construction method for everything as I have never tried to build columns or crown mold before (the crown should not be too hard since im not "turning" it where i have to figure out crazy double 45 degree angles lol!)
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Well I went to Joann's today just to look around and get some ideas when I found some nice suede fabric at 50% off (from $22 a yard to $11 a yard). I got 12 yards of "Purple Plum" for the walls and 3 yards of black to cover the stage:




It may not be ideal acoustically as its a pretty tight weave, but it looks really nice and is exactly what I was picturing in my head for the walls.
 

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Is it fire rated?
 

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Ah...1" thick. I think you'll be surprised to find out that stuff isn't really 1" thick. Just like 1 x 2's are not really 1"x2". You'll find it works fine without attempting to do an "goofy" sizing.


Needs to be Class A Fire rated. If not...it's your risk. And, while you're out there doing "goofy" sizing, you'll find most Class A fire rated fabrics are 65" wide.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the reply Dennis, I guess I'll just get the insulation first and make sure it its not too thick for a 1x2 frame. I thought it was thicker due to the posts I've seen by others who are using combinations of things to get the right thickness (like gluing a piece of mdf and plywood together). Now that I think about it I guess the plywood and mdf were standard size which would make the total 3/4" like a 1x2.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well all the materials have been ordered, all my wood is getting delivered tomorrow and I'm going to pick up the 1" OC 703 tomorrow afternoon.


Ok this acoustic insulation is a pita to find. I'm in residential construction and after talking to my subs...then their suppliers..and in one case THEIR supplier's supplier... I still couldn't find anyone who had it lol. Finally I did some digging on this site (I know I know, I should have started with that....) and found:

http://www.spi-co.com/


These guys had 1" OC 703 in stock (along with a ton of sizes/types) here in Dallas and looks like prices have come down quite a bit from the 2004 thread I found their name in.


I bought 30 2' x 4' sheets for $0.43 psf which is about half what people were quoting in those old threads. They also had the rockwool 8lb density stuff (RXL 80) for $0.37 psf which is probably better, but you have to buy the whole 100' x 4' roll which is alot more than I need and the panels at 48" widh will be easier to work with. I am not actually purchasing this until tomorrow when I go to get it, so if spending the extra $50 ($100 vs $150) for the RXL 80 and the extra hassle is worth it, speak up! 30 panels (240 sf) is enough for all my fabric panels and to cover from the screen down on my front wall.


This site is mentioned in many of the acoustic threads I searched but never hurts to post it again, its a good resource for comparing this stuff:

http://www.bobgolds.com/AbsorptionCoefficients.htm
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
My wood arrived today and I picked up 30 panels (240 sf) of the 1" OC 703 as well. I got enough insulation for my panels and to cover the front wall from the top of the screen down. The 4x8 sheet of birch is for the stage. There is also another sheet of birch already pre-cut to 9.5" wide for the face of my columns (I don't have a table saw and just had my supplier cut it up for me). I went with Birch instead of mdf for only about $10 more since I only needed 2 sheets.






I had my supplier bevel the edges of the 1x2's for the fabric frames so I now I will have nice rounded corners:






I also got started on the rail for my rope light/crown mold. As I planned in my sketchup photos, I screwed a 1x1 into the studs then screwed a 1x4 underneath (with wood glue as well). I will likely pre-paint the crown mold before putting it up then just doing some touch up. The columns will add additional support for the 1x4 and keep them from sagging over time (although just with the screws and wet glue it doesn't feel like its going anywhere).








As you can see, I marked up the wall with my drill trying to get the screws in, but it will be covered by my panels anyway. Now I just have to figure out how to cut off the 2 screws I stripped that have heads sticking out...






I decided to hire a painter to paint the ceiling and front wall flat black. From what I've read flat black is a pain to keep from showing roller marks and I hate painting ceilings anyway. They will be out Monday. In the meantime, I am going to start sanding down the trim and doors which I plan to paint a satin black (doing this part myself).


I won't start making the fabric frames or columns until next week when my friend is helping (and bringing his helpful miter saw and pneumatic nail gun
).
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Some more progress over the holiday weekend. I got the wall and center stand done (still need to do the "wings" on either side of the center channel).


Some OC 703 will go behind this and in the center channel stand. The vertical 2x4's have their 3.5" side flush with the front, which leaves me a 2" gap for wires to go behind the wall. The 2 supports in the middle line up with the sides of the center stand so I can bolt it on from the back. This will bolt to the window sills when all is said and done.




The sides and back of the center stand will only have fabric over them to make it more acoustically transparent. The half inch gap on the back of the top is for wires. I did not add a 2x4 connecting the front and back as this is where the "wings" will attach.




A shot with the center channel:
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The ceiling and back wall are done. I used a flat black for the ceiling and front wall and a satin for the back wall where people will touch (as flat is hard to clean and shows blemishes). The front wall that is not black will be covered by the screen/stage/curtains.







I want to get rid of that fan and replace it with a cool light fixture but I haven't found anything yet, if you have any ideas let me know (I'm thinking maybe a black chandelier?). I can't get above that space so adding wiring/can lights won't work, I need to use the existing electric.


I also started on the columns. They are 10" wide made of 1x4's ripped down to about 2 5/8" thick. This is so when I put the trim around the top, it will line up with the 1x4 wide rail above instead of sticking out.




I think I will start painting the doors/trim/crown/etc. tonight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Well I accomplished alot the last few days, hopefully will be able to finish up this week!

COLUMNS


The columns are 10" wide made of 1x4's ripped down to 2 5/8" wide with a bevel on one edge. I then put a 1/4" sheet of birch that is 9.5" wide for the front. To add some detail I added a 2" wide piece of trim around the top, some trim to form a rectangle down the face of the column, and a plain 1x4 wrapped around the bottom to match the base trim. Making the columns 2 5/8" thick allowed the finished piece to be flush with the crown mold above it (1/4" face + 1/2" thick piece of trim), which is a 1x4 width out from the wall.








Fabric Panels


The panels are very simple construction using 1x2's with a bevel on the outside edge. I did not put a cross brace even though they are somewhat large, but I nailed the panel to the wall in the middle of the pieces, so I don't think they will warp in (plus the fabric did not need to be pulled extremely tight).


The panels are 52.5" wide and 69" tall (-3" for interior space). I have 24 x 48 sheets of OC703 so I put 2 pieces upright then cut one piece to sit on top. I didn't bother to anchor these as the panel holds them in place.




I nailed them to the wall simply by shooting a finishing nail through the fabric as many people have done on these forums. I then added that same 2" wide piece at the top to tie into the columns. I originally was not going to do this but it allowed me to make the panels slightly short rather than trying to cut an exact fit (which was a pita to try and fit...) top to bottom. It also looks nice.
I ran out of the trim since I wasn't planning on using this much, I'll have more tomorrow to finish up this side:




One wall almost complete!



I also got the purple rope light installed, unfortunately it does not put off as much light as I was hoping. It looks great, but I'll need some more low level light for people to see before/after the movie. I am thinking about maybe cutting some holes in the rail centered on the panels and have dim spot lights shoot downward over them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The room is now for the most part complete (equipment is another story....).


I finished my little stage. It is 2x4's covered in black fabric. There is no "top" to it, its just the fabric covering it and it is filled with OC 703. The stand for the center channel is also filled with the OC 703. Since my tower subs are side firing toward the middle of the room maybe this will act in some small way as a bass trap (I had extra insulation).




For the window blackout I used heavy duty black trash bag material and black electrical tape to completely black out the windows. I then added 2 sheets of OC 703 in the cavity left and stapled black speaker cloth over the window area to hold the insulation in there and to make a flat black background for my curtains. I used the cheap walmart black velveteen curtains (search for "Regency Velvet Curtain" on walmart's site, these are very thin so you need a black background to not see through them).


I used drywall screws and large washers to put OC 703 behind the screen and false wall below it.






I was having issues getting the color to show up with my camera, I'll try to get a better full room shot later.


My attempt to photograph the rope light:



Hopefully soon I'll get some media room furniture and a nice new projector, but I was able to redo the entire room for less than the cost of either. I'll post a breakdown of the cost later (I always liked to see this in other peoples just to get an idea) but the total cost was around $1200.
 

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Adam, thanks for sharing! Looks great!


tony
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks Tony, I thought it came out pretty decent for the money (and considering it was my first attempt at wood working...).


Here is a breakdown of the cost:


Wood Materials - $500

This includes the wood with bevelled edges for the frames, the crown mold and trim, the wood for columns, baseboards, stage/false wall, and frame for the screen.


Fabric - $230

This includes 12 yards of the purple fabric and 3 yards of the black stage fabric @ $11/yd, 3 yards of BOC for the screen @ 5.99/yd, and 3 yards of Black Velvet for the screen border @ 11/yd.


Paint - $330

Includes about $200 in labor to paint the ceiling and back wall. I painted the trim/columns/doors/crown which would have been another $500 in labor for the painter to do.


1" OC 703 Fiberglass - $110

I bought 30 2' x 4' panels at $0.43 psf


Misc. - $230

Misc. things from lowes including a $30 electric staple gun, staples/screws/etc, wire to move everything to the back of the room, $40 projector ceiling mount, $50 TREK leapfrog (IR transmitter thing so my remotes work for all the stuff in the closet), $30 for rope light, and $40 for curtains.



Borrowed a friends Miter saw and Pneumatic nail gun and getting him to spend his vacation helping - Priceless


Total: $1,400


Ok so it was a little more than I thought before adding it all up, but all in all I was very happy with the transformation of the room for the amount of money and a few weekends of work!


I still need to find a cool black light fixture and get rid of the brown fan. Since I won't be putting a fan back in, I will probably use the 2 sets of wiring to seperate the lights aimed at the screen and the lights aiming back at the seating. I'll probably put these both on dimmers as well.


As the wife and money permits, I plan to do the following in this order:


New projector (probably one of the old high end 720p projectors I've been reading about here for around $1000)


New Seating - I'd love to build a riser and do 2 rows of seating with an isle up the middle (I have room for 2 chairs/2-seat couch on either side of a middle aisle). My wife wants a sectional though so might try to do 2 sectionals with an aisle up the middle if it will fit.


New carpet - maybe a dark gray or black carpet, or maybe some sort of black oriental rug/hotel looking carpet as long as it blends with the purple walls.
 

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Nice theater! I like the way you totally revamped your room without breaking the bank. How did you mount your columns to the wall? Also the how did you mount the birch to the column? I assume you mounted the birch between the side 1 by 2 5/8.

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by ejceles /forum/post/14495927


Nice theater! I like the way you totally revamped your room without breaking the bank. How did you mount your columns to the wall? Also the how did you mount the birch to the column? I assume you mounted the birch between the side 1 by 2 5/8.

Thanks

The columns fit pretty tightly between the crown mold rail and the floor. I used a nail gun through the crown mold rail into the top of the column sides (obviously prior to putting the crown mold piece on). I also nailed through the cross piece 3/4 of the way down (see picture of half built column above). The fabric frames will keep it from moving side to side as well. Doesn't sound like alot but those things aren't going anywhere wedged between the floor, crown rail, and fabric frames. The 1/4 birch I just used a nail gun at low pressure and put about 5 nails on each side anchoring it to the 2 5/8" side pieces. Then just used putty to cover the holes.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdamW81 /forum/post/14243189


I want to get rid of that fan and replace it with a cool light fixture but I haven't found anything yet, if you have any ideas let me know

How about this:



Hunter valhalla



Hunter Tribeca


Victor
 
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