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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I found a similar thread started a couple years ago, but it did not answer much, and I do not have a 12-volt trigger available from my AVR. The sub in question is a 20-year old Velodyne Servo 1200. I do not want to replace the amp, as I would lose the servo correction function. I googled this topic and found a schematic, but with having little experience building from schematics--let alone tying in to existing amp wiring--I do not yet feel comfortable taking it on. Has anyone done something similar to this? Here is the link to the circuit I found:

http://sound.westhost.com/project38.htm


It may be too much of a hassle, but it would make things much more convenient. Thanks,
 

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Ooops. I just realized that this may not work if your receiver goes into standby mode on power-off. Sorry for the mis-direction if the above is true.


If standby is part of the equation, there is another possibility if you are somewhat electronics savvy and that would be to use a small CT, current transformer on one leg of the incoming 120v line. Depending on the current load, say 25w standby vs 300w running you could very easily design and build a circuit to differentiate the two conditions and then either provide a 12V signal or a switch to call for power to the sub.
 

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Oh, I see. It does go into stand-by for off. That power strip does have a sensitivity adjustment. I wonder how much my AVR varies between standby to "on" and if the strip could detect it. Or, if it only detects a difference between 'no power flowing' and 'some power flowing'. If it is the latter, it probably wouldn't notice 5W idle to 50W on-but-no-sound (making up numbers here).


I can solder things together following instructions, but I would be challenged to design something myself.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by SilentJ20 /forum/post/17038574


Oh, I see. It does go into stand-by for off. That power strip does have a sensitivity adjustment. I wonder how much my AVR varies between standby to "on" and if the strip could detect it. Or, if it only detects a difference between 'no power flowing' and 'some power flowing'. If it is the latter, it probably wouldn't notice 5W idle to 50W on-but-no-sound (making up numbers here).


I can solder things together following instructions, but I would be challenged to design something myself.

Yes, I note they do have a sensitivity setting and they do reference Home Entertainment so it's possible the setting may be generous. I'd check your manual for standby wattage and then call Smart Home. Since they address Home Entertainment they may be more familiar with your situation than I would normally think.


I notiiced this in their FAQ:


"I plugged my electronic device into the control outlet but the switched outlets never turn on. Why?

The Smart Strip Power Strip only senses current from motors, fluorescent lamps and high efficiency power supplies (computers and most but not all home entertainment products). Also some computers and audio/video equipment do not draw enough power to trigger the Smart Strip. If you have an LCG3/4, use the adjustment to set the correct trigger level."
 
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