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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What paint should I use for my 124" BO cloth screen?


I need to be able to roll-on the paint. I am not scared of DIY mixing etc.



PJ: Optoma HD200x

1500 ANSI

Contrast (Full On/Off) : 3500:1



Room Specs

-----------

- Dimmer ambient recessed pot lighting

- Room can be fully light controlled

- H: 7'6" L: 25' W: 16'

- Walls color white

- Ceiling matte white

- Screen top to be mounted 14" down from ceiling

- Throw: 15ft (PJ not mounted yet though and can be mounted any where on the ceiling)

- Calculated 15fL @ 15' throw

- Seating position 15ft (can be altered)


- Screen Size: 16:9; 124"

- Blackout cloth
 

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DIY Granddad (w/help)
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Chops,


The new Optoma HD200x is a DLP unit. It has acceptable contrast, made to look actually better than the specs indicate. Check on the 1500 ANSI figure though...that's not right. More like 500:1...which is still exceptional native CR for a PJ under 2k. Keep it close to the Screen, and use Low lamp (4000 hrs!) if you can because it's a noisy unit on High.


Be advised that with the Screen's top edge being 14" down from the ceiling, the Top of the PJs lens will have to be exactly 5.5 " from the ceiling. That means a very Low Profile Mount, and I'd suggest the Chief RPA w/Projector Specific Mounting Plate. You can Screw the RPA directly to the Ceiling using simple Toggle Bolts (the PJ is a lite one) and you'll be exactly where you want to be.


BOC is at best 0.9 Gain (if that) so mounting the 200x at 13.5 will both remove the PJ further from your ears....and allow for more FLs on the screen


In my reckoning you need to consider a Contrast enhancing paint that will also offer at least 1.2 gain That would be RS_MaxxMudd. That paint is easy to mix...easy to roll, but on even stretched out to the max BOC, rolling is still a bit tricky. And if you get Roller marks (...more than likely possible...) sanding them down and reapplying more paint on BOC is a lesson in futility.



Don't scrimp on te $55.00 it takes to get a Wagner CS-DD HVLP Sprayer. With it coating the BOC will be supremely easier than rolling, and will assure you (...as much as anything can...) of virtually perfect results. The new "DD" model have almost no over spray, and with the reduced price cost only 2x that of the good quality rollers, pan, and such you'd need to buy in any case.


You've got the doings of a excellent Video system going for you...and at an excellent price. Do it right, all the way down the line.
 

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I will agree with Maurice about the RSMM



I have rolled it and you have to be VERY picky on the roller placement and pressure. The most failsafe way would be to spray with the Wagner. Especially for the cost.


As a matter of fact, my wife took our 4 yr old to a birthday party and guess what I decided to do....Paint my latest BOC screen. I'm sitting here typing while waiting for a coat to dry and trying not to get paint on the keyboard.


I will interject one aspect that I have experience with in painting BOC screens. When and if I paint another BOC, I will absolutely ROLL the first 2 coats of primer on, THEN spray.


I have painted 5 BOC screens now and when you start out of the gate spraying, the fibers from the BOC will surface EVERY time. I have sanded them down and reapplied heavier coats and still the fibers pop up. I decided that I would give up on spraying and just roll.


I rolled another coat of primer on top of the sprayed coats and the fibers completely went away. I then sanded very carefully and diligently and got a very smooth surface and went back to spraying the paint over the rolled coat.


My experience would lend me to believe that the air pressure and the amount of water needed for the Wagner CS to work is what's causing the fibers to surface. It happens in woodworking so I know it could happen in this case. We call it raising the grain.


I think when you roll the first 1 or 2 coats it pushes the paint into the pores of the fabric and "glues" everything down where spraying is intended to stay on the surface.


I think that with BOC, at a minimum the first coat should be rolled and thoroughly sanded.


Rob
 

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i agree with hillside...


actually the whole art world agree's with you. just like you 'gesso' your canvas to prep it for painting... so too should you do the same on your boc screen.


when preppin boc, i roll it to seal the fibers and fill in 'valley's' in the weave.

then i use a sand block to remove the extra fibers followed by another primer coat for a final seal before spraying.
 

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I had dismissed using BOC because I figured that if I needed to sand, that just wouldn't be possible or practical.

When you sand I assume that you are using very light pressure? Or are you affixing a temporary backing?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks so much for all the advice!


The thing about the WAGNER HVLP is it cost me about $90 to get it here to Canada.



Also what should I use for a basecoat primer before I roll/spray the RS_MAXXMUD? i've got 3.5litres of SICO expert Latex Primer-Sealer White 870-130
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by david172 /forum/post/17006340


I had dismissed using BOC because I figured that if I needed to sand, that just wouldn't be possible or practical.

When you sand I assume that you are using very light pressure? Or are you affixing a temporary backing?

I am curious about the answer to this as well.
 

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DIY Granddad (w/help)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by david172 /forum/post/17006340


I had dismissed using BOC because I figured that if I needed to sand, that just wouldn't be possible or practical.

When you sand I assume that you are using very light pressure? Or are you affixing a temporary backing?

A light sanding down of slight texture or existing fibers is quite possible. You just cannot effect a vigorous sanding of heavy texture and such...that which would require excessive pressure.


The advice to roll on at least two thin coats of primer, then lightly sand before continuing to spray on finish coats is well given.


chops13,


May I assume your saying 90$ total w/shipping?


Seems like Supplier-added profit on the shipping even at $90.00 total.


Do you have someone in the US that can procure you a $55.00 example. Shipping via USPS Priority Post would only be about $25.00 at most.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
MM,


The $90 is exchange rates, shipping, duty, other BS taxes, customs brokerage fees, etc.


The quotient for a Canadian to get an american purchase to us is about equal to; x = $*1.35
 

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DIY Granddad (w/help)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chops13 /forum/post/17008928


MM,


The $90 is exchange rates, shipping, duty, other BS taxes, customs brokerage fees, etc.


The quotient for a Canadian to get an american purchase to us is about equal to; x = $*1.35

Nuts to that.
And those currrrazy extra charges as well. There are ways to do an "end around" the Bureaucracy.
 

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And with HVLP, you also need an air compressor, not everyone has one, and if they do, it has to be a large one outside the relm of most compressors used to run power tools that run on high pressure, low volume.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Favelle /forum/post/17010949


And with HVLP, you also need an air compressor, not everyone has one, and if they do, it has to be a large one outside the realm of most compressors used to run power tools that run on high pressure, low volume.

Hey Favelle,


You haven't been on board here for quite a spell. I'm not sure if your trying to concur with the positive opinions of the "Electric" Wagner Control Spray, or if you thought we were making a comparison between Rolling & HVLP spraying with older-style Compressor run Spray Gun rigs.


But if so the latter. the questions about, and the comparisons with Compressor units over Rolling are now moot because of the Wagner Electric HVLPs. Because of adopting the Wagner CS as the Screen Spray tool of choice, I've retired my 32 Gallon / 5.5 HP Compressor (2 years ago) to a life of pumping up Tires and powering my Grinding Tools. My 2 very good HVLP Guns have narrowly escaped being tossed at least 3 times by a Wife who simply sees them as Clutter.


But now I'm free........



No more 50' Hoses

No more Water condensation to worry about

No more Rust Filters

No more Pressure regulators

No more lugging around a 4.5' tall - 90 lb Compressor


Instead, I roll out a 25' electric Cord, Stir & strain my paint, fill up the Wagner's paint Cup, aim and shoot. Afterward I rinse out the Gun and Cup, pack it away, roll up the Electric Cord, and pop the top off what is undoubtedly the 2nd or 3rd beer since I started. which wasn't very long ago....so that should tell you how fast i knock 'em back.


;



Paintin' does that to a Guy.
 
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