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I just picked up a Marantz 8802 and a pair of CM10s to go with my CM5s and CMC2, and now I'm looking at the options for amplifiers. Budget is $3500 and I'd like to be able to power a 7.1.4 system. Does anyone have any advice? I'm currently leaning toward the Marantz MM8077 and MM7055.

So far I've found this piece of the puzzle to be the hardest to research... Any thoughts are appreciated. Thanks!
 

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Welcome to AVS mate..
I listened to the new CM series 2, and they are quite neutral.
Marantz is a nice choice, but I would consider one of their stereo amps if you can afford it.
Eg the PM 14 S1 which has a power direct mode.

Their multi-channel power amps aren't too powerful... for the same money or thereabouts, you can try and audition the Rotel the RMB 1585.

Cheers
 

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I'm currently trialling a Rotel RMB-1585 and RB-1582 with some CM10s and they sound awesome.
The best is when I use the 1585 to bi-amp them. The control of the bass drivers is amazing, they stop and start so quickly.

The conclusion I've come to is that I need a better processor (rsp-1572) as the amps and the speakers are performing far better.
 

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Thanks for the advice guys, much appreciated. I think I'll take a look at the 1585.

good choice

I have the CM10's as well....and I run then full range in my system

When I was looking for a amp years ago..one of the Rotel's...the 1095 was on my short list

I am sure the 1585 will play the CM10's loud and clean enough to fill a gym

Warren
 

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Amplification below clipping sounds the same. The speakers aren't overly hard to drive. Most any amp from a decent manufacturer will be a good option.
 

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LOL. Wrong on both.

The CM10 are 4 ohm speakers
Right on both. B&W rates the model at 8 ohm nominal. You still haven't done a bias controlled test to understand how hearing bias affects your reaction to amplifiers. Don't be afraid.
 

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Right on both. B&W rates the model at 8 ohm nominal. You still haven't done a bias controlled test to understand how hearing bias affects your reaction to amplifiers. Don't be afraid.
Like we see in many ways in live, it's hard to change decades of ignorance.
 

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Right on both. B&W rates the model at 8 ohm nominal. You still haven't done a bias controlled test to understand how hearing bias affects your reaction to amplifiers. Don't be afraid.
Like we see in many ways in live, it's hard to change decades of ignorance.
zgeneral, not sure it is appropriate to include FWM in such a statement as you are saying about yourself.
 

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B&W rates the model at 8 ohm nominal.
Ford rates my car at 160 hp. I don't believe them either.


"8 ohm nominal" for a mass market product sells a ton more speakers than admitting that the speakers most of the time live in territory much less than 8 ohms, and therefore should be paired with a (often) more expensive amp capable of regulating more current at lower resistances. My CM9 S2's are allegedly 8 ohm as well, but the first gen CM9 (also rated at 8) tested closer to 4ohm, as has the CM8 S2 on a review I've read (sorry that I don't have the links to either, but they ought to be easily searchable).


Manufacturers speaker ratings are just as often bulljive as they are not. Lets not even get in to theoretical power handling.
 

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Ford rates my car at 160 hp. I don't believe them either.


"8 ohm nominal" for a mass market product sells a ton more speakers than admitting that the speakers most of the time live in territory much less than 8 ohms, and therefore should be paired with a (often) more expensive amp capable of regulating more current at lower resistances. My CM9 S2's are allegedly 8 ohm as well, but the first gen CM9 (also rated at 8) tested closer to 4ohm, as has the CM8 S2 on a review I've read (sorry that I don't have the links to either, but they ought to be easily searchable).


Manufacturers speaker ratings are just as often bulljive as they are not. Lets not even get in to theoretical power handling.
as a person who thoroughly distrusts manufacturers' specs, gotta ask, any idea what any of the deviations mean, as a practical matter? Do you believe, for example, that if my source material's power distribution is pink-noise-like - so equal power in each octave, that the third octave where the speakers' impedance is lowest defines the impedance the amp sees? Or is reality more your cuppa? Any idea how that third octave of lower impedance affects the amps' linearity or distortion? Or is the sky just falling in general?
 

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as a person who thoroughly distrusts manufacturers' specs, gotta ask, any idea what any of the deviations mean, as a practical matter? Do you believe, for example, that if my source material's power distribution is pink-noise-like - so equal power in each octave, that the third octave where the speakers' impedance is lowest defines the impedance the amp sees? Or is reality more your cuppa? Any idea how that third octave of lower impedance affects the amps' linearity or distortion? Or is the sky just falling in general?


I don't have a thorough mistrust of manufacturers specs, but rather I do realize that they are often a bit "fluffed" as a means to sell more product. It's the world we live in (and it's round, if you're keeping track). Does my ford Focus actually make 160hp? I'm sure, at the crank, you could find the right combination of fuel, altitude, ambient air temperature, cooling system temperature and oil temperature/viscosity to have that be true. But will it's power rating always be 160hp, or will it infrequently be 160hp, based on all those things? Furthermore, how much of that 160hp is actually useable, not robbed by the transmnission....will I always be driving at the 5000rpm needed to be in the max power band? Lets say that I actually use between 50 and 100hp during my daily drive. Doesn't sound as impressive as 160, does it.


The way speakers are specd are not dissimilar to that. It is a device which presents varying resistance to an amplifier based mostly on content (as you pointed out), but also on cable capacitance and manufacturing tolerances. A more accurate representation of a speakers impedance would be stated as a range, based on the frequency range of the speaker. "Nominal" is a fictitious number based on my speaker running at 5000rpm, downhill, with a 50 degree Fahrenheit gale force tailwind.
 

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The amp is the motor. The speakers are the tires. Cannot fault the tires for not doing what the motor does. Or vice versa (that means you cannot fault the amp for not being able to feed everything the speakers can handle, distortion and compression aside, and you cannot fault the speakers for not being able to handle what the amp does. They are, obviously, different things),
 
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