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Here is a simple iPhone photo of the Cinegrey 3D taped to a portion of my white screen. For this shot, I opened the curtains on a window off to the right of the screen on a cloudy day. The image is the white on black grid from the projector's pixel alignment menu. You can see on the white screen things are much worse on the right than the left.

Overall, on my personal taste scale, the white screen in this light scenario rates "unwatchable" while the Cinegray rates between "tolerable" and "acceptable" for most gaming or sports. I can't imagine any situation where I wouldn't close the curtain before watching a movie on either screen.
 

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So, having lived with this material for a bit, I can offer some updates.

Stretching the material more horizontally has all but eliminated the vertical lines. On the down side, watching more and different material, I do see some sparkles. With bright solid colors like in animation it can be quite noticeable, whereas in normal film images it is not very noticeable.

There are definitely some downsides and trade offs with this material that will bother some people more than others.
 

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So, having lived with this material for a bit, I can offer some updates.

Stretching the material more horizontally has all but eliminated the vertical lines. On the down side, watching more and different material, I do see some sparkles. With bright solid colors like in animation it can be quite noticeable, whereas in normal film images it is not very noticeable.

There are definitely some downsides and trade offs with this material that will bother some people more than others.
I received my sample last weekend and disappointingly, I noticed the sparkles too. I was set on either the 3D or Carl's ALR, but both show sparkles big time and will not work for me. I was hoping for a big improvement from my 10 year old Firehawk, but it was marginal at best. For those interested, Carl's ALR is quite a bit brighter than the 3D. Probably more comparable with the Cinegrey 5D but I hven't compared directly. I might be going with straight white fabric, as it is smooth as can be. I don't think the trade-offs of the ALR stuff are worth it for me unfortunately.
 

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I received my sample last weekend and disappointingly, I noticed the sparkles too. I was set on either the 3D or Carl's ALR, but both show sparkles big time and will not work for me. I was hoping for a big improvement from my 10 year old Firehawk, but it was marginal at best. For those interested, Carl's ALR is quite a bit brighter than the 3D. Probably more comparable with the Cinegrey 5D but I hven't compared directly. I might be going with straight white fabric, as it is smooth as can be. I don't think the trade-offs of the ALR stuff are worth it for me unfortunately.
Because this is the first time I can remember hearing someone describe Carl's ALR as noticeably brighter than Elite's CineGrey 3D, you're projecting onto the side without a label, right? The labelled side should be the back..and that back will be more glossy and higher-gain.

It could also just be the natural variance between productions, but I figured it couldn't hurt to ask and make sure.
 

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Because this is the first time I can remember hearing someone describe Carl's ALR as noticeably brighter than Elite's CineGrey 3D, you're projecting onto the side without a label, right? The labelled side should be the back..and that back will be more glossy and higher-gain.

It could also just be the natural variance between productions, but I figured it couldn't hurt to ask and make sure.

Yes, I was definitely using the correct side. Without a doubt, Carl's ALR was in the ballpark of .3 gain higher than Cinegrey 3D on my samples! First of all, just laying the samples next to each other on my table, I could see that the 3D was darker. Then when an image was on the screen, Carl's as quite a bit brighter. My wife even noticed it! haha The 3D was almost identical in brightness (on axis) to the Carl's Flexiwhite 1.1 gain sample.

As tough as it is to make a judgement on hotspotting on such a small sample, it looked like Carl's hotspotted worse than the 3D. Just generally had a more reflective look to it. I now have more appreciation for what Stewart is doing with their materials, because they were essentially where these new materials are 12 years ago. And I also had a Firehawk G3 sample on hand to compare and of course, it performed the best. I think it's also like $1,200 for just the material on my 123" 16:9.

I may just go with Carl's Flexiwhite and continue to tame down reflections in my room. I really liked the look of the sample. Gotta love first world problems, right? :)
 

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The Carl's is supposed to be about 1.5 max gain vs 1.1-1.2 for the 3D. Based on the specs, I would have expected it to be brighter but with more severe hotspotting which is exactly why I chose to try the 3D first over the Carl's and 5D. So, SXRD is reporting what I would have expected.
 

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The Carl's is supposed to be about 1.5 max gain vs 1.1-1.2 for the 3D. Based on the specs, I would have expected it to be brighter but with more severe hotspotting which is exactly why I chose to try the 3D first over the Carl's and 5D. So, SXRD is reporting what I would have expected.
Yeah, I think the 3d is overall the better choice. I think you minimize the bad aspects of ALR, while maintaining some good light rejection. I would take a hit in the overall brightness for less hotspotting and just crank the brightness on my projector at the times when needed.
 

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Yeah, I think the 3d is overall the better choice. I think you minimize the bad aspects of ALR, while maintaining some good light rejection. I would take a hit in the overall brightness for less hotspotting and just crank the brightness on my projector at the times when needed.
How well does Cinegrey 3D perform when used with a passive 3D set-up? Does anyone know the extinction ratio? Thanks.
 

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The Carl's is supposed to be about 1.5 max gain vs 1.1-1.2 for the 3D. Based on the specs, I would have expected it to be brighter but with more severe hotspotting which is exactly why I chose to try the 3D first over the Carl's and 5D. So, SXRD is reporting what I would have expected.
That all makes sense. It's just that my sample of Carl's is only just barely brighter than FlexiWhite at its brightest point (when viewed in a dark environment) and the previous example/s I've seen comparing Carl's next to the CineGrey 3D and 5D showed Carl's to be noticeably dimmer than 5D and basically indistinguishable from 3D (the user commented that Carl's was a touch dimmer than the 3D).
I wonder if Carl's had fairly drastic change from one roll to the next.. that's a bit worrying.
 

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About to order Elite Aeon CineGray3D 150" screen for Epson 5040 projector. Projector is not mounted yet and I have a little wiggle room. Should I go closer to 15' or closer to 17'? Would 17' be better to avoid hotspotting? I know 15' would give me a brighter image, but probably don't need it anyway since the 5040 is bright enough.
 

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About to order Elite Aeon CineGray3D 150" screen for Epson 5040 projector. Projector is not mounted yet and I have a little wiggle room. Should I go closer to 15' or closer to 17'? Would 17' be better to avoid hotspotting? I know 15' would give me a brighter image, but probably don't need it anyway since the 5040 is bright enough.
Elite specifically mentions you need 1.5x your screen width as minimum throw. I have a 15' throw and I literally just setup a 135" aeon cinegray 3d last night. I'm very pleased with the image. However, I'm just over the min spec. For 150" screen I would follow their guidelines and stick with 16.5' throw or more.

That all being said, the image on this is pretty freaking good. I never bought it specifically for external ambient light, but I did buy it to increase my ansi contrast from light bouncing around my room. I have dark walls, but my room is multifunction and it has light carpet, white ceiling, and the "blackout" curtains glow during the day. It impossible to get the room completely dark except at night. I had a silver ticket 120" white screen for the past 2 years and I wasn't enjoying the picture at all. However my wife refused to allow me to treat the room further. I finally got the buy in for a new screen recently (I think she got sick of listening to me).

I've only had a few hours to demo it, but it's worth every penny. Honestly I think it might allow me to nurse my aging sony hw50es a little longer. I was a little concerned my projector would light it up enough (it's got over 1000hrs on current lamp), but it does quiet well. Surprisingly enough I can even disable the DI and it doesn't wash out the image like it did with the matte white screen. Sure I might lose some black level without the DI but the increased brightness and image pop makes it worth it for tv watching. For movies I just flip it back on and get a little bit better contrast at the cost of some brightness. Viewing angles are actually way better than I was expecting. There is a slight shift in the image brightness when you sit at an angle, further corner will be slightly darker, but its only noticeable on solid color screens. Watching a movie I was unable to perceive it. I only noticed it when I threw a solid white image up. Standing up, walking around my room I didn't notice much image shift. I would say it's comparable to my VA FALD 4k tv I have in my living room (JVC DM85UXR), but not as good as my LG IPS tv I have in my bedroom which has no saturation loss.

Aethsteticly I was also very surprised about how good the screen looks. It took me a little extra time to work out any waves, but I was totally going into this expecting to use the velvet border tape. After throwing it on the wall and having it almost disappear (I have dark grey walls), I decided to wait. After firing up the image and aligning everything as best as I could in ~15min, I was more than happy. Sure I can't get a perfect rectangle, but the slight border gap is barely noticeable, I forgot about it as soon as I started watching. Overspill though is very noticeable since the light is no longer squashed by velvet and it's hitting a textured wall. Overall I just think the tape would be way more of a distraction than leaving it clean and nude on the wall :).

I'm sure there are better screens out there for living room environments, but if you have decent light control and are just fighting some indirect light bleeding into your room I can't imagine anything being that much better. If you want to pay thousands of dollars for other brands low gain ALR screen, I won't argue with you, but this cinegrey 3d is probably a better bang for your buck. I personally can't justify 1000's of dollars for a piece of fabric on the wall (probably why I have no interest in art).

Next up I need to upgrade my projector and really light this thing up with more lumens and better black levels than my hw50es is capable of.
 

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Elite specifically mentions you need 1.5x your screen width as minimum throw. I have a 15' throw and I literally just setup a 135" aeon cinegray 3d last night. I'm very pleased with the image. However, I'm just over the min spec. For 150" screen I would follow their guidelines and stick with 16.5' throw or more.

That all being said, the image on this is pretty freaking good. I never bought it specifically for external ambient light, but I did buy it to increase my ansi contrast from light bouncing around my room. I have dark walls, but my room is multifunction and it has light carpet, white ceiling, and the "blackout" curtains glow during the day. It impossible to get the room completely dark except at night. I had a silver ticket 120" white screen for the past 2 years and I wasn't enjoying the picture at all. However my wife refused to allow me to treat the room further. I finally got the buy in for a new screen recently (I think she got sick of listening to me).

I've only had a few hours to demo it, but it's worth every penny. Honestly I think it might allow me to nurse my aging sony hw50es a little longer. I was a little concerned my projector would light it up enough (it's got over 1000hrs on current lamp), but it does quiet well. Surprisingly enough I can even disable the DI and it doesn't wash out the image like it did with the matte white screen. Sure I might lose some black level without the DI but the increased brightness and image pop makes it worth it for tv watching. For movies I just flip it back on and get a little bit better contrast at the cost of some brightness. Viewing angles are actually way better than I was expecting. There is a slight shift in the image brightness when you sit at an angle, further corner will be slightly darker, but its only noticeable on solid color screens. Watching a movie I was unable to perceive it. I only noticed it when I threw a solid white image up. Standing up, walking around my room I didn't notice much image shift. I would say it's comparable to my VA FALD 4k tv I have in my living room (JVC DM85UXR), but not as good as my LG IPS tv I have in my bedroom which has no saturation loss.

Aethsteticly I was also very surprised about how good the screen looks. It took me a little extra time to work out any waves, but I was totally going into this expecting to use the velvet border tape. After throwing it on the wall and having it almost disappear (I have dark grey walls), I decided to wait. After firing up the image and aligning everything as best as I could in ~15min, I was more than happy. Sure I can't get a perfect rectangle, but the slight border gap is barely noticeable, I forgot about it as soon as I started watching. Overspill though is very noticeable since the light is no longer squashed by velvet and it's hitting a textured wall. Overall I just think the tape would be way more of a distraction than leaving it clean and nude on the wall :).

I'm sure there are better screens out there for living room environments, but if you have decent light control and are just fighting some indirect light bleeding into your room I can't imagine anything being that much better. If you want to pay thousands of dollars for other brands low gain ALR screen, I won't argue with you, but this cinegrey 3d is probably a better bang for your buck. I personally can't justify 1000's of dollars for a piece of fabric on the wall (probably why I have no interest in art).

Next up I need to upgrade my projector and really light this thing up with more lumens and better black levels than my hw50es is capable of.
Thanks, this really helped me decide to get this screen. I have been agonizing over which screen and how much to spend. I think your conditions are very similar to mine.
 

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great job!! I did a DIY with the cinegrey 3d as well and LOVE it!!
Do LEDs around the screen helped with perceived contrast?
 

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That all being said, the image on this is pretty freaking good. I never bought it specifically for external ambient light, but I did buy it to increase my ansi contrast from light bouncing around my room.
I'm in a similar situation. I have a Silvler Ticket matte white screen, and can notice the bounced light from my walls even though they are already dark ccoloured. I will likely just change the screen material, currently trying to decide between the Cinegrey 3D and Cinegrey 5D.

Did you compare the two before settling on the 3D?
 

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Follow up to my earlier post....

Need some advice here:
Have a 5040ub with a elite aeon cinegray3d 150" screen. I need advice on where to mount the projector. The screen is a 1.2 gain ALR screen so advises 1.5 times screen width which would be close to 16' 5". I have a stud at 16'5" but then the lens would be closer than that. The outlet and HDMI passthrough are next to this stud. I could also go one stud back and mount at 17' 7" (yes 14" difference) but electrical and HDMI will be at 16' 5".

Would I get hotspots if I mount at 16'5" (then the lens would be closer than the recommended 1.5 screen width)?

Or should mount on the 17'7" stud to make sure I follow the screen recommendation? I could then run the HDMI and power to where they are located near 16'5".

Thanks in advance. Will be mounting Friday. Appreciate the input.
 

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I'm in a similar situation. I have a Silvler Ticket matte white screen, and can notice the bounced light from my walls even though they are already dark ccoloured. I will likely just change the screen material, currently trying to decide between the Cinegrey 3D and Cinegrey 5D.

Did you compare the two before settling on the 3D?
I have samples for both, but honestly, I couldn't tell much from the little samples they sent. I made my decision mostly from reviews on this forum. I bought from Amazon, so I figured if it didn't work I would just return it. The reasons I went with 3d over 5d is the extra gain wasn't needed and I was concerned about hot spotting, sparkles and viewing angles. Based on everything I've read, the 3d had better behavior in all those areas.
 

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Anyone using edge free Elite Aeon screen can tell me how this works for projecting image that does not fill the entire screen? Will outside bands look weird or you don't notice it much? I'm thinking of installing an oversized screen that I could use for 16:9 TV viewing at a reduced size and for occasional 2.35:1 movie viewing. I can live with the later but want to be sure that extra outside bands when watching TV most times won't be bothering me. Thanks,
 

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Anyone using edge free Elite Aeon screen can tell me how this works for projecting image that does not fill the entire screen? Will outside bands look weird or you don't notice it much? I'm thinking of installing an oversized screen that I could use for 16:9 TV viewing at a reduced size and for occasional 2.35:1 movie viewing. I can live with the later but want to be sure that extra outside bands when watching TV most times won't be bothering me. Thanks,
I don't have the patience to get a perfect fill. Nor do I necessarily think quality control on these screens is high enough to get a perfect 16:9 ratio. Even just a tiny bit off gets magnified by the projectors throw.

Now all that being said I can't tell it's not filling up the whole screen unless I look for it. Playing games or watching movies it's a non issue. I prefer the clean look much better w/o the black tape and the screen is dark enough grey to not be distracting with any underfill. Underfill on my previous matte white screen was very annoying to me and I tried to get the overspill just minimal on the velvet to avoid it.
 
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