AVS Forum banner
1 - 20 of 419 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,196 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·

EDIT for HT intro screen shot on 2/26/10



On the advice of many on this forum, I’ve decided to start a thread to track my progress and document the experiences as I build a small home theater. As a professed novice I haven’t mastered many of the skills required to “build” a really nice room, but I’m giving it my best effort. Which means I spend a lot of time just staring at the walls. Here is a Sketchup drawing of what I plan to do:




From the rear wall to the screen the HT room is about 18.5’ long. It is 11’ wide for about 8’ from the screen wall and widens to 13.5’ at the seating area. The ceiling is 8 feet. I'll place the equipment rack underneath the stairs and I’ll access it from behind the seating area.


The room is below the children’s bedrooms so sound isolation is my primary concern. In fact, I plan to use as much of my current equipment as possible and use the majority of my budget for isolation and acoustics. I plan to use Dri-Core for the subfloor and to stagger stud one wall (the rest are concrete, all will be DD+GG) and decouple the ceiling with (RSIC, DD, GG). I also plan to use Integrity Gasket.


I’m planning two rows with a riser for seating. The first row will be about 10.5’ from the screen and the second row will be 16.5’. Based on seating and room dimensions, I’m tentatively planning for a 110”-115” wide scope screen. I plan to use a Grafik Eye (3106 or QS) for lighting control.


Other than research and planning, the only tasks we’ve completed are to clear out the room, secure a building permit, HVAC rough in and recently, electrical rough in, so this thread is beginning at the…beginning. We started out wanting to clean up the front wall of our current family room set up, but after many months of research, we decided to go with a dedicated room. The room will be in the basement. A few calls for estimates to general contractors only stoked my already burning desire to DIY.


I wanted to thank all the people who have inspired me to act on my desire for a home theater by detailing their own experiences. I really appreciate the advice from those that have responded to my questions and posts.


Oh yeah, the name of our theater is Lewis Family Cinema. It is a very fitting name given the tremendous involvement and support from everyone.


EDIT for INDEX on 09/03/09

Even with all of the pictures, my thread isn’t that large, but I decided to add an index and details section to make it easier to search the pics and read. Thanks to chinadog, jamis, oman, guam and queendvd for the idea. I hope it’s helpful.

INDEX – last edited on 2/26/10

1. Building Permit, HVAC and Electric Rough In

2. Low Voltage/Conduit Plan

3. Frame Electric Breaker, Telecom Panels, LV Rough In, Integrity Gasket and Insulation

4. RSIC Clips, Hat Channel and Sump Pump Rerouting, Battery Back-up and Alarm

5. Solid core doors, Jamb extensions and the 1st layer of drywall

6. Sound Isolation Boxes for the screen wall utility light and smoke detector and GG and 2nd layer of drywall

7. Rope caulk and spray insulation

8. Soffit construction and pillar framing

9. Projector Box and Lighting Plan

10. Drywall complete…almost

11. Drywall corner bead

12. Mud, tape & texture by a Pro…Drywall is finally complete

13. Paint time, Part II

14. Sconces go up, Dri Core goes down and Paint time, Part III

15. Grafik Eye QS install and…

16. Lights!

17. Paint time, Part IV…finally

18. Start of Riser Build

19. Start of Stage Build

20. Stage work: sump access, sub platform, drain access

21. Stage finished, riser lighting

22. Riser finish: LV conduit runs, stuffing, topping

23. Trim and stain testing

24. Trim install

25. Carpet install

26. Crown install

27. Solid Core Doors and Ceiling Rope Light install

28. Minimalist Screen wall

29. Chairs are in

30. DIY 111.5” Wide Top Hinged 2.35:1 Scope Screen Build

31. False Wall/Proscenium Panel Build and Install

32. Screen wall acoustic treatment with acoustic foam wedges

33. Equipment Rack

34. Screenwall Shots

35. BD and HD Screen Shots

36. Finished room shots

37. eD DIY P7S-650 sub build


Finished Room Details

Dimensions – 11’ W (13’ 2” W in seating area) x 18’ 6” L x 7’ 9” H with 39” behind false wall

Audio

Fronts – Paradigm Monitor 9

Center – Paradigm Monitor 9

Surrounds – Axiom QS4 (4)

Subwoofers – epik Empire (4)

Video

Projector – JVC RS25

Screen – DIY Seymour AV 2.35:1 AT 111.5” wide

Electronics Rack (top to bottom)

AVR – Sony STR-DA3400ES

HDTV – DirecTV HD20

Media Player – Oppo BDP-83

Power Center – MonsterPower HTS2600

ButtKicker Amp – ButtKicker BKA 1000N (2)

7-Channel Amp – Emotiva UPA-7

Accessories

Seating – 8 Berkline 13175s in Brown Leather w/ BKs

Equipment Rack – Studiotech PA – 6 Rack

Remote Control – Logitech Harmony 900

Lighting Control – Lutron Graphik Eye QS – 6 w/ entrance switch

Acoustic Treatment – Foam Factory acoustic wedges and bass traps

Current pictures added 09/20/09




 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,196 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Here are some images of the unfinished space.


Front of HT



Back of HT - Doorway leads to utility room



Beginning to remove rigid duct work



Replaced with acoustic flex duct



Equipment will go here under stairs



Cold air return added



Electrical rough in



More electrical wiring



Drops - considering I didn't know how to wire a couple of months ago, I'm reasonably pleased with the rough in
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,196 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Got the idea for the staggered stud wall from guamguam. Used 1x's and 2x4s to add an inch of space to decouple the HT stud wall:



At this point, I’m really excited about everything except the mud and tape. After learning to wire and completing the rough-in, I literally feel like I can do anything. That is as long as there is no time clock. Looking ahead, my next big puzzle is how to design/build the screen wall to provide easy access to the breaker panel and sump pump or if I should build a second door to access the area.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,223 Posts
Is your main entrance going to be behind the seating, or up in front? Where will your projector be? How big is that screen?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
893 Posts
Go man go!!! You can do anything you put your mind to, when in doubt, this is the perfect place to get guidance.


Oh and if you are stressing the mudding... hire it out. It will save you months of dinking around and save your lungs!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,196 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by pmeyer /forum/post/15110156


Is your main entrance going to be behind the seating, or up in front? Where will your projector be? How big is that screen?

The main entrance is up front. The door in the back leads to the utility room and storage - the equipment will be here. The projector will be mounted near the back wall (about 16-17 feet from the screen). The white portion of the screen represents a 100" 16x9 screen. The black masking on the sides equals the dimensions of a 115" 2:35 screen.


Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,196 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks Staffy,


After electrical, I do feel like I can do anything. Some guys say its really easy, but until you do it yourself, its like trying to put a man on the moon. You're right, the mud and tape will be a check that I'm happy to write.


Great thread you have going - makes me laugh out loud.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,196 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC /forum/post/15110344


curious why you didn't go for flex duct on the return. That's a pretty big conduit to the rest of the house.

Rookie/Novice mistake. I noticed it when I stepped back to congradulate myself on a job well done. I have some flex duct left that I can replace a portion of it with. But, is there anything I can do deaden the vent without tearing it out? Or, is tearing it out and using the flex the best option?


Thanks
 

·
RETIRED theater builder
Joined
·
36,385 Posts

Quote:
Originally Posted by kjlewie /forum/post/15110460


Rookie/ I have some flex duct left that I can replace a portion of it with. But, is there anything I can do deaden the vent without tearing it out? Or, is tearing it out and using the flex the best option?

Replacing the round duct with the flex will help. Replacing with true acoustical duct better. You could also get some JM Linacoustic RC and line the inside of the duct work.


Lastly it looks like you are planning on using the wall cavity as part of your vent system. If you would make it deeper you could line the box with Linacoustic as well turning it into a duct muffler. To do this you would need to build the box deeper, but you have the room. You could attach 2 inch thick furring to the studs and just move your construction back a bit.
 

·
RETIRED theater builder
Joined
·
36,385 Posts
When I say "True" consider that all flex duct is not created equal with respect to acoustical properties. Only product 6B/6M in this example has broad band absorption characteristics from this assortment of Flex duct.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,466 Posts
Your room dimensions and layout are very similar to mine. I also had the narrower area in the back for seating. From your seating distances you mentioned, I'm guessing you're going with fixed couches and not recliners?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,939 Posts
Also I was thinking if you equipment is gonna be underneath the stairs and you have that return there, you might be able to pop in another return from the other side in order to create a draft to pull out the hot air from the equipment closet. A little bonus from having the return there perhaps.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,196 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC /forum/post/15111692


Replacing the round duct with the flex will help. Replacing with true acoustical duct better. You could also get some JM Linacoustic RC and line the inside of the duct work.


Lastly it looks like you are planning on using the wall cavity as part of your vent system. If you would make it deeper you could line the box with Linacoustic as well turning it into a duct muffler. To do this you would need to build the box deeper, but you have the room. You could attach 2 inch thick furring to the studs and just move your construction back a bit.

Big,


Thanks for the tip. I'll get some furring strips and deepen the box. I'll also get some Linacoustic for the box. I'll use the flex duct since I have it. I hope there is not a big difference between the flex and acoustic flex, but if its still a problem, I'll have access to it.


Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,196 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by mn_hokie /forum/post/15111778


Your room dimensions and layout are very similar to mine. I also had the narrower area in the back for seating. From your seating distances you mentioned, I'm guessing you're going with fixed couches and not recliners?

mn hokie,


Took me a while to decide which way to orient the room. I've lost count of all the Sketcup versions. I like what you did with bump out in your room.


Like many others, at my rooms most narrow point, I wished I had just another foot or so. We'll see how my decision works out as I still haven't decided how I will access the sump pump and breaker panel. Either through the screen wall or a door to the side. I'll be asking for plenty of suggestions here as I go.


We're undecided on recliners at this point. I want the power recline with butt kickers but it would cost more than the rest of the room. I'm building my riser to accomodate recliners just in case. The riser will be 7' deep. At my 15.5' second row seating distance, I'll still have 3' of depth behind the seats for room to move them further back. I'm planning to use the couches we have until I
make up my mind.


Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,196 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by oman321 /forum/post/15111830


Also I was thinking if you equipment is gonna be underneath the stairs and you have that return there, you might be able to pop in another return from the other side in order to create a draft to pull out the hot air from the equipment closet. A little bonus from having the return there perhaps.

Oman,


That's a good idea, but the equipment closet will be open to the entire storage/utility room which has a return. I hope it doesn't get too hot in there.


I'm worried about my rough in for my Grafik Eye. I used 14/2 not 12/2 as I had a 15 amp circuit for lighting. My total load on the circuit will be 1050 watts so I should be okay. I've found conflicting info on the web so I plan to call Lutron. I spent sooo much time trying to get the wiring correct, now I'm just uneasy.


Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,196 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Just took a look at Dricore's online video. They say to install drywall before dricore. I see a few builds were the dricore goes in before the drywall. Seems like the floor going in first makes more sense. What do you guys think?


Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,204 Posts
Floor second. If you ever have to rip out the drycore, you don't also don't want to rip out the walls. Just task Tom.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,196 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Took a look a Tom's thread. Bad situation, but great to see friends step up to help him out. Floor second - got it.


Separately, I just got off the phone with Lutron tech support. I was assured the Grafik Eye 3106 or QS is compatible with 14/2 wiring. The tech told me the units are designed to work with UP TO 12/2 wiring but the key, of course, is that the wiring has to meet the circuit requirements (12/2 for 20 amps and 14/2 for 15 amps). The upshot is my electrical rough in is fine. All of you seasoned electricians may chuckle and it may seem like I'm being overly anal about this but, I just recently learned about wiring, amps, circuit loads and I want to do it right and safely. I passed my inspection as well, so all is good with electrical.


Thanks
 
1 - 20 of 419 Posts
Top