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Hi all,

Just planning my first DIY build. To make it worthwhile and not have to upgrade for a long time (I know...no matter what I build I'll want to make another one...) I am most likely going to go with an 18" driver in either a 24"cube design or a mini marty and make it into a table. The enclosure design is still TBD.

I am looking at my amp options right now and just wanted to ask a few things.

- I was originally set on an inuke1000 or 3000, but now I am not sure I want to deal with the fan noise/putting in a new fan. I'm also confused about the power output from these things as well. RMS is not listed on their site, and the threads I've read on AVS about it are unclear. Everyone seems to have a different opinion of the true power output. For me, an iNuke1000 with DSP will cost me $253 CAD from Amazon.ca. There is the 3000 on Amazon.ca, but not with DSP. Again, I'm not really sure what I am getting for this money.

- I looked into plate amps, and the best I can seem to find (for a decent price) is the BASH 300W and 500W amps. I can get the 300W amp for $270 CAD and the 500W amp for $420 CAD. I know that I can only hook these up to one sub vs 2 subs with the inukes, but this damn fan noise is really turning me off.

My last question is around if anyone has suggestions for other amps to look into. The only reason I know about these is through recommendations from AVS. If I didnt know the names, my search of "subwoofer amp" really turns up nothing on amazon or ebay. The only other thing that pops up a lot are Dayton amps, and they are like double the price.

Any feedback is welcomed and appreciated.

Looking forward to this project :)

C

PS - I use my HT system mostly for movies, sports and sometimes music. It is in an 1,800 square foot room. Right now my sub is a BIC F12 and I love it. I know whatever I build should perform much better, but just for the "hardcore" bassheads, I am not looking to crack my drywall lol. I think 300W RMS should be more than enough with an 18" driver for my tastes. Unless you strongly feel otherwise! Always open to suggestions.
 

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You could look at the crown xls amps as well. They are priced pretty fairly and if your going sealed you won't need the dsp to set hpf, so the xls would fit the bill quite well as the fans are silent in them as well.
 

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You could look at the crown xls amps as well. They are priced pretty fairly and if your going sealed you won't need the dsp to set hpf, so the xls would fit the bill quite well as the fans are silent in them as well.
They also don't like tough loads much below 20Hz. They go into some undocumented protection mode and mute the output and flash the lights on the front. I had to set a HPF in front of it to stop the behavior. But, they're generally slient (until your room warms up and the fans randomly turn on full blast for about a minute).
 

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They also don't like tough loads much below 20Hz. They go into some undocumented protection mode and mute the output and flash the lights on the front. I had to set a HPF in front of it to stop the behavior. But, they're generally slient (until your room warms up and the fans randomly turn on full blast for about a minute).
Interesting I'll have to hook my1500 up to one of my subs and try to push it.
I've only used it on my stereo mains so far so I'll put it to the test. :)
 

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You would be surprised how easily subs eat wattage, especially sealed subs. Didn't read the whole thread but I do own an XLS1500 that I use on my electric bass cabinet (8 ohm cab bridged on the amp).

As stated the amp is pretty much dead-silent and that's a plus. The crossover is also very easy to use and effective. For my usage it's a great amp. Now for the not so great news.

I recently built a car audio sub for a buddy. It's a 2-ohm load, which the XLS1500 is rated for on a single channel which is how I was running it. The amp went into protection mode any time I got near any volume close to "loud-ish" and just didn't seem to have any real ability to dig deep and loud. I was quite surprised and disappointed. I realize that is very subjective but I wanted you to be aware that though the XLS1500 is rated for 2 ohms per channel it doesn't like doing it one bit. Luckily I also have an EP4000 laying around and that was quite content at 2 ohms per channel.

If you're planning on a 4 or 8-ohm bridged load, you'll probably be OK, but if running a sealed sub the XLS1500 might not be enough for you. Hope this helps.
 

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Wow.... disregard my recommendation, I wasn't aware of this issue but now that I am I will no longer pitch these as a viable option for your subs...
 

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is that really an 1800 SQUARE FOOT room ??? :eek: That's almost as much as my entire 4br/3ba house !!

and the fan swap is really easy. If I can do it ... ;) Hell, I flip pancakes and break a sweat...:D
 

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From what I know, try to go ported and tuned to low or sub 20hz if you can. So you can expand later if needed ;)

Subs for me are the same as "x" drugs, you really become numb to the experience over time and enjoy more if you can get it. So far not ever enough and I don't know if my house can take more.... boot shakers are helping Soooooo much for movies though.

A inuke 3000dsp is pretty good (fan mod not too hard if amp in same room). Look up the heat sink mods also. From my experience adding little heat sinks to the transitors helps a ton also with a lower cfm fan mod on the 3000. Get the dsp if you can. It is worth it for sealed or ported.

Ported will satisfy o.k. but for me I am still desiring more 7hz for movies only. Must have many subs though (likely 4+) .... I need more ;)

With a dsp you can normally limit power. Hard to have enough power or sub 120hz.... ;)

I had a bic pl200 which is a little step above a bic-12 and am now WAY beyond that.... so much fun!
 

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some good points and options have been made so far.... but... waiting for the OP to respond...

until then.... ummm.... most of us have had / read / responded / debated the finer points... and seen threads like this go nowhere...

So... shall we wait for the OP to respond ....before we take this thread further ?:(
 

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I'd like to see some testing, like a hpf turned on at 20 or 50hz, running 2 ohm. I wonder if that would stop the shutdown?
The XLX1500 is limited to a 20Hz high pass. I THINK the crossover slope is 12db/oct but I'm not sure. It's not less than that; that I know for sure. When I was trying to test the sub I built I set the HP for 20Hz. Then 30Hz I was trying to play everything from classic rock to Crystal Method through it. Obviously the techno-type music killed the amp much quicker than AC/DC did.


I've only owned/used the XLS1500. I'd heartily recommend it for mains (L/C/R/surround) but not subs. It just doesn't have the power reserves for sub duty. Granted, 2 ohms per channel is a hard load on any prosound amp but my XLS1500 just died before I got what I felt was nowhere near it's rated wattage at that load.


I did not test with sine waves...I had just buttoned up the cab I build for my buddy and wanted to hear it. :D As you know, getting a real AC voltage rating with a DMM is neigh impossible with music.
 

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I would personally go with a inuke 3000DSP. Get it shipped to the USA border if you are close by and order it from the USA. Amazon Canada is a scam.
 

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1.8kW @ 20-20khz fanless (requires 20amp breaker/socket)
https://emotiva.com/products/amplifiers/xpr-1

1kW version (I'd still recommend a 20 amp breaker for it though.)
https://emotiva.com/products/amplifiers/xpa-1

Comes with warranty and money-back guarantee.

+10% discount
https://emotiva.com/products/e-club


It's either that or look for an old Crown K2, it has higher 1khz burst power, but ultimately the XPR-1 would win because it has MUCH bigger passive cooling and power supply.

You'll still need a miniDSP though.
High powered silence is costly.

I don't know of any passive Class D amps that are rated above [email protected] that don't also cost an arm.

The other solution, run a 100ft 10awg speaker cable from the attic/furnace/laundry room/killing room where the inuke is.
 

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