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I have been using my ep2500 for a while now and while it does perform well I find myself hardly ever using it because of having to go turn it on. I have it in an adjacent room and by the time I remember that it is off the tv is already on and my butt is planted on the couch which means im not getting back up... So does anybody know of comparable amps with the auto on/off thing? The only other one I can think of with decent power is the buttkicker.
 

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You could use a powerstrip or power conditioner that has a 12-volt trigger system built in. This way you could make any device(s) turn on as most receivers have a trigger output.


I have a pro amp running on a Niles power strip with trigger output from my receiver and it works well.
 

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Quote:
So does anybody know of comparable amps with the auto on/off thing? The only other one I can think of with decent power is the buttkicker.

plate amps like the LT/1300 will have auto/on off....build a little box for it and stick it in a rack
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by penngray /forum/post/15486610


plate amps like the LT/1300 will have auto/on off....build a little box for it and stick it in a rack

Good idea there too.


Also, if you search a little you could easily build a relay system with very cheap parts that will act the same way.
 

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I second the relay idea. I use one because my ep2500 is 20 feet away in a different room (loud fan!)

But I also have a panamax power sequencer that works well for the same problem.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by bonehead848 /forum/post/15488538


A relay sounds like an interesting project, any ideas were I can find some instructions on how to build it?

Man, I had links to some but can't find them. I will keep looking and post if I find them.
 

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Please do.... I think I need to change my implementation


My receiver's 12v is already powering other items and will not let me add more items - it gives me a error when I try to power up my amps with the Niles.


I think I need to get a unit that is triggered with IR signal and offers a delay.


Anyone have some idea who offers this type of unit....
 

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If your amp is pulling less than 15 amps ..you can get on of the $20.00 remote thingies they sell at Home Depot..or elsewhere.It is rated for something like 13 amps.
 

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Then you can make your own...


You need to go to any electrical supply house and get a 20 amp contactor with a 120v relay in it... then power it's relay with those cheap remote control units like I described above.. which will trigger the 20 amp contacts to close and open..


I have made 2 units like this one for my dust collector and the other for my amps..


They are very easy to wire.

relay1

relay 2

trigger remote
contactor

stanley remote control
 

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I switched laptops and lost all of my links. I guess that is what I get for not using del.icio.us or some other online storage.


If you are drawing that kind of current like I am with my CE4000, you will need a Niles or Monster, etc product designed to pass that kind of current...that is if you can't find any plans for a DIY setup. RadioShack used to sell a cheap relay that worked well, not sure now though.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kanaris /forum/post/15490002


Then you can make your own...


You need to go to any electrical supply house and get a 20 amp contactor with a 120v relay in it... then power it's relay with those cheap remote control units like I described above.. which will trigger the 20 amp contacts to close and open..


I did something similar to this. I use a Niles AC-3 12-volt trigger off my Rotel receiver, to energize 2 separate 2 pl/20amp/120v coil contactors, each in their own boxes. Each contactor controls a 20-amp circuit; one supplies two Aragon 8008 amps, for my main L/C/Rs (also to a seperate relay which turns on a closet ventilation motor). The other for two Mackies and a Rythmik amp, for subs.


If you enclose them in large enough boxes, you can line the box with insulation, reducing the switching noise (and sometimes the contactors might buzz a little). I use 8x8x6 boxes.


In the trades, this is called "slaving out the relay" (I'm an ex-HVACer tech). The idea is to not load up the low voltage circuit too much, thereby not dropping the 12 volts to where it will not operate the relay coils.


At one time I was using a multichannel preamp, instead of the rotel, that didn’t have 12 v triggers or switched outlets. I had to use a Xantech current sensing unit, to switch on a 12 volt power supply, to energize the Niles AC-3, in turn to turn on the relay boxes...worked fine, but talk about a mouse trap
 

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I may have to try something else... The receiver has a 120v switched outlet that I use right now to run some computer fans for cooling my Rotel.... I plugged in a small 12v wall wart and run the fans off of it. Maybe I can use another small wall wart with 12v to trigger the Niles AC-3 on.


I can easily build that mouse trap but it seems to be far more complicated then it needs to be. Plus I don't want to take up all that room back there with that rig...
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Warpdrv /forum/post/15495157


I may have to try something else... The receiver has a 120v switched outlet that I use right now to run some computer fans for cooling my Rotel.... I plugged in a small 12v wall wart and run the fans off of it. Maybe I can use another small wall wart with 12v to trigger the Niles AC-3 on.


I can easily build that mouse trap but it seems to be far more complicated then it needs to be. Plus I don't want to take up all that room back there with that rig...

Check out Xantech, unlike Niles, they sell alot more "ala cart" parts.
 
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