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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Greetings, folks!


First off, thanks to tiddler, MississippiMan and Bud16415 for all the info I gleaned from your posts. I think I'm in a position to move forward, but would love some DIY expert input if I'm correct or off base.


I created a projection system in our church use in our youth and young adult room about 1.5 years ago. I have an Epson 8100 mounted about 14' from the projection wall, resulting in an approx. 155" image. Currently, it is projecting on a brown/grey wall (it's called English Tea: think black tea w/ cream in it for the color). The room has 12' ceilings painted white with a texture (think pieces of popcorn glued to it) and a few flourescent light bars. Viewing is from a "semi-circle" approx. 13' in radius from the center of the screen. Two windows in the room allow in some sunlight with the shades drawn, and there are three directional floor lamps. We use this mostly for short clips (for lesson illustration) and video games.


In this configuration, if the shades are drawn, we get an OK image for what and as often as we use it for, however, this is not conducive to navigating the room for those not involved in playing the video games. Therefore, I have been trying to find a way to allow us to get better picture with some more lighting. (BTW, if the overhead fluorescents are on, the picture is basically a total wash.)


I understand that I will never get the image quality I personally desire, but I also realize this is not my own home theater (other wise I'd have black ceilings and dark walls w/ no flourescents, but recessed cans or side sconce lighting instead) and that this room must be functional and aesthetically pleasing to others (not to mention having to get approval for however it is decorated), but I figure I can do something and this is what I have been considering based on what I've read:


- Paint will be applied directly to the wall, which is in good shape (i.e. no major blemishes, only roller texture to deal with, and not appreciable bows or bellys in the drywall).


- I figured on using a 90/10 (%v/v) paint/water white primer (Killz2) in two coats to cover the current brown paint and hopefully address some of the roller texture.


- Finish coats would be Behr 1750 mixed to N8 with 3:1 Minwax Clear Satin Polycrylic to further address the texture and add some ever-so-slight gain.


- Application would either be via sprayer or double-roller-method (diluting the finish coats 90/10 [%v/v with water] to extend working time).


I'd love your two-cents on my proposal, and also your added input on whether I should do something to add some more gain (and, if so, what?)


Thanks!

Kenneth
 

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I am not sure how flat the Behr 1750 is. I have only used the exterior 4850. If it is a truly flat paint, then the 3:1 mixture is correct. The Behr4850 Exterior Flat paint is actually not truly flat. It is a low luster matte finish. In that case a 4:1 mixture of paint to Minnwax Satin Polycrylic has been used successfully.


I've heard that sprayed paint produces a slightly flatter finish than rolled paint. If that is true the 3:1 mixture might be good for mixing with a matte paint when spraying.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks, tiddler, for the quick reply.


I had originally planned on the 4850, but then I saw the one thread that mentioned the 1750 as being equivalent in its newer formulation minus the fungicides and other necessary outdoor chemicals (or, at least, that's what I thought it said...). Using the 4850 is fine with me, too.


Do you think that I need to add any gain, or is it possible to add some down the road if it appears necessary?
 

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DIY Granddad (w/help)
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RS-MaxxMudd from the get go, applied over the Kilz. Sprayed on if at all possible.


You'll have gain....a better degree of ambient light resistance, and later if you want it even darker, the RS-MM base will be reflective enough you can simply apply the new choice directly over it.
 

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That's What I Said! (quote: Rango )


Really though.....the RS-MM will have more gain....allow better perceived Black Levels...and therein also improve Ambient Light Resistance.


The basic N8 mix is not a bad thing for someone looking for a simple very light Gray...almost white surface that can be easily applied. However it is in no way comparable to a more advanced Mix like RS-MaxxMudd.


Just apply a good, very smooth White Primer base coat and the RS-MM will deliver the goods.


However.......with the lighting situation you describe, the improvement will be noticeable, but not spectacular.


And I cannot see how you can manage 155" from a 14' throw. The shortest throw distance I can figure out would be 15.3' ? (w/just 13 fls) Even so, at 14' the biggest possible image is a measly 142" w/15 fl of reflective illumination.


So yeah....you need RS-MMs gain and Contrast enhancement....and the best possible thing for you to keep up with is using a new-as-possible Bulb. get one if you can....install it and save the older one for emergency use.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Great! Thanks!


(Oh, and frankly, the 14' projection distance was from memory, so it might be incorrect. The 155" diagonal is based off actual H x W measurement, since I needed to figure out the area I needed to paint.)
 

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DIY Granddad (w/help)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stylixg /forum/post/20893001


Great! Thanks!


(Oh, and frankly, the 14' projection distance was from memory, so it might be incorrect. The 155" diagonal is based off actual H x W measurement, since I needed to figure out the area I needed to paint.)


So.....if the 155" diagonal measurement (4:3?) is correct, and therein also the distance is 15'+, I'm almost ready to suggest that you go with S-I-L-V-E-R.

But the High Gain (2.0+) High Contrast paint application isn't a great ambient light performer. Darn it!


No......RS-MaxxMudd or RS-MaxxMudd Retro is the ticket to ride on here.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by stylixg /forum/post/20894060


I'm projecting 16:9 for what its worth.


OK, so MaxxMudd or MaxxMudd Retro. Another question: v.1, v.2 or v.2.1?

Always use the latest version if possible.


We don't change 'em on a whim. It's always either out of necessity due to a lack of component availability, a decrease on component quality, or most usually because we have adjudged the change up as being preferential to getting better results than the previous components.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by stylixg /forum/post/20894299


OK. Great. I wasn't sure if the different versions/formulations were for different applications.


Thanks!

Actually they are. One of the best attributes of the SF and RS-MM mixes is that the shade and degree of reflectivity can be adjusted to suit almost and PJ/Room/Lighting condition.


The newer versions are primarily refined examples that use better components than those versions that preceded them.


(...going to bed now....I have a bad head cold, that's why I'm up filling the thread list with answers.
)
 
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