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Audio Pack Rat
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After reading several threads for an hour or so regarding Behringer fan swaps I figured I would make another thread with pics!
The reason is I could not find (got tired of looking) any pics of the new NX3000d's innards to see what is different regarding the fan and heatsinks.

Well the fan looks to be the same however the aluminum heatsink is definitely different (than the NU series pics) and appears to possibly offer better heat dissipation.
The fan shroud appears to be pretty much the same except mine was actually connected to the fan with some adhesive.

I have already ordered this fan, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KF7P34G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I also bought these heat sinks just because it can't hurt to have more heat dissipation. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D4F1F8R/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

will post more pics when I install the new fan and heat sinks.

Here are the pics of the old Inuke version and the new NX3000d heatsinks.
 

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Audio Pack Rat
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
So it looks like they eliminated the fan shroud in the NX line? That should help.
Looks like I forgot the pic with the shroud but I did mention it.
 

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Looks like I forgot the pic with the shroud but I did mention it.
Sorry, missed that in your original post. To me the shroud was always the problem with airflow throughout the entire unit, would rather have higher CFM fans keeping the entirety of the innards cooler.

Appreciate the info/pics!
 

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To me the shroud was always the problem with airflow throughout the entire unit, would rather have higher CFM fans keeping the entirety of the innards cooler.

Personally I'd rather have the airflow concentrated on the parts that get hot rather than waste it on ones that don't.
 

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Audio Pack Rat
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Well I got the replacement fan installed.
I also did some temperature testing with my new infrared/laser thermometer and tested the difference in sound with SPL meter app on my phone.

Sound
Stock fan produced between + 22-25 DB more output over the ambient sound of the room I was testing it in. So ambient noise in room was around 52-55 db, with fan on at approx 2 ft away it jumped to 74-79 DB with the louder sound produced behind the amp.
As a comparison I also tested my Crown XLI 1500. It only produced an extra 3-4 DB over ambient at less than a foot away from the front and back.
After fan swap the Behringer was identical to the Crown with + 3-4 DB over ambient max from 8ish inches away.

Temps
Stock fan with shroud removed produced between 72-84F degrees (at idle IE no load) all over and around the heat sink and PCB. The hottest area was the last place that was connected from the PCB to the heatsink closest to the front of the amp.
After fan swap with shroud removed and Heat Sinks installed temps were 81-95F which was a little concerning. So I replaced the shroud which helped a bit and averaged 77-91F.

Since the replacement fan was essentially silent from 3-4 feet away I can always get a higher DBA fan which moves more air if I have any issues overheating.

Some time this week or weekend I will hook up my 2 garage subs and do some testing under load and see what happens.

Note to self! Be VERY sure of placement of the heat sinks before letting them touch anything! Well at least I will try to next time :eek:
 

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Well I got the replacement fan installed.
I also did some temperature testing with my new infrared/laser thermometer and tested the difference in sound with SPL meter app on my phone.

Sound
Stock fan produced between + 22-25 DB more output over the ambient sound of the room I was testing it in. So ambient noise in room was around 52-55 db, with fan on at approx 2 ft away it jumped to 74-79 DB with the louder sound produced behind the amp.
As a comparison I also tested my Crown XLI 1500. It only produced an extra 3-4 DB over ambient at less than a foot away from the front and back.
After fan swap the Behringer was identical to the Crown with + 3-4 DB over ambient max from 8ish inches away.

Temps
Stock fan with shroud removed produced between 72-84F degrees (at idle IE no load) all over and around the heat sink and PCB. The hottest area was the last place that was connected from the PCB to the heatsink closest to the front of the amp.
After fan swap with shroud removed and Heat Sinks installed temps were 81-95F which was a little concerning. So I replaced the shroud which helped a bit and averaged 77-91F.

Since the replacement fan was essentially silent from 3-4 feet away I can always get a higher DBA fan which moves more air if I have any issues overheating.

Some time this week or weekend I will hook up my 2 garage subs and do some testing under load and see what happens.

Note to self! Be VERY sure of placement of the heat sinks before letting them touch anything! Well at least I will try to next time :eek:
Just to be sure, did you put thermal paste between the original heat sink and the new ones?

EDIT: Looks like the link you posted has the heatsinks coming with a thermal "tape" already applied. From what I've seen, a good thermal paste will get you better results than the tape in regards to heatsinks, in case you're looking to get the temps down a bit more. Though you'd have to carefully remove the tape. It's possible that if the tape is being non-optimal, you're getting worse heat dissipation than if you just didn't have the extra heatsinks, since you're blocking the surface of the original heatsink. But at the very least, thermal paste should give better results.
 

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any chance of pics wrt heatsink "before and after"?
 

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Audio Pack Rat
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
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Audio Pack Rat
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Just to be sure, did you put thermal paste between the original heat sink and the new ones?

EDIT: Looks like the link you posted has the heatsinks coming with a thermal "tape" already applied. From what I've seen, a good thermal paste will get you better results than the tape in regards to heatsinks, in case you're looking to get the temps down a bit more. Though you'd have to carefully remove the tape. It's possible that if the tape is being non-optimal, you're getting worse heat dissipation than if you just didn't have the extra heatsinks, since you're blocking the surface of the original heatsink. But at the very least, thermal paste should give better results.
Yes the sinks I bought already had adhesive on them. Very strong and unforgiving adhesive I might add!
I actually took some tests before and after the heat sinks were applied and they do help, not a lot but around 4 degrees or so.
 
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If you run into cooling issue with the lower performance of that fan, I recommend the NF A8 PWM. It has much better static pressure rating so gives a lot more airflow through the amp than the one you selected. You might be ok with the addition of the heatsinks, but for me, there is almost no difference in noise and the extra airflow and static pressure that the PWM offers is a no brainer. No sense taking a chance on damaging these amps with poor airflow when there is a very quiet and more effective option. There are lots of cases where peoples Inukes shut down due to quiet fans that don't provide enough airflow.
 

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I’m still running the stock fan on mine, but I was able to quiet it down somewhat:
I put two layers of Gorilla Tape (like Duct Tape but more rubbery and heavy) completely covering both the inner and outer surfaces of the plastic shroud. It gives the plastic a bit of mass and takes the noise down a noticeable amount.

At some point I will get the recommended fan. But the tape helped a bunch.
 

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Audio Pack Rat
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I’m still running the stock fan on mine, but I was able to quiet it down somewhat:
I put two layers of Gorilla Tape (like Duct Tape but more rubbery and heavy) completely covering both the inner and outer surfaces of the plastic shroud. It gives the plastic a bit of mass and takes the noise down a noticeable amount.

At some point I will get the recommended fan. But the tape helped a bunch.

I knew there was a reason to not throw away those scraps of Dynamat that I recently threw away!:serious:
 
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Audio Pack Rat
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Does anyone have any info on the Behringer NX/NU3000's temperature point at which it will shutdown?
 

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If you run into cooling issue with the lower performance of that fan, I recommend the NF A8 PWM. It has much better static pressure rating so gives a lot more airflow through the amp than the one you selected. You might be ok with the addition of the heatsinks, but for me, there is almost no difference in noise and the extra airflow and static pressure that the PWM offers is a no brainer. No sense taking a chance on damaging these amps with poor airflow when there is a very quiet and more effective option. There are lots of cases where peoples Inukes shut down due to quiet fans that don't provide enough airflow.
I did this exact thing in my 3000d but left the pwm pin off of the plug. How do you connect that NF A8 PWM 4 pin fan to the 3 pin interface on the board?
 

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If you run into cooling issue with the lower performance of that fan, I recommend the NF A8 PWM. It has much better static pressure rating so gives a lot more airflow through the amp than the one you selected. You might be ok with the addition of the heatsinks, but for me, there is almost no difference in noise and the extra airflow and static pressure that the PWM offers is a no brainer. No sense taking a chance on damaging these amps with poor airflow when there is a very quiet and more effective option. There are lots of cases where peoples Inukes shut down due to quiet fans that don't provide enough airflow.
I'm also running the Noctua NF-A8 PWM fan and it's performed flawlessly for about 3 months now.Super super quiet ftw:cool:
 

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I did this exact thing in my 3000d but left the pwm pin off of the plug. How do you connect that NF A8 PWM 4 pin fan to the 3 pin interface on the board?


Just connect the two wires needed from the PWM fan.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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