[Darkprpl]

I finally am settled and want to really get my NEC PG 6000 set up... been very happy with it b4, but moved and now it is mounted upside down like a good HT aught to be .


But now I'm noticing a couple things that maybe I should have looked at before I go into the ritual setup...


It's quite noisy... Yes there is fan noise, but there is also kind of an anoying hummm, that changes as I change settings.


More seriously, I was doing some adjustments, and it went POP....hisss... and then the picture started expanding/contracting and flickering... However, when I actually send video signal to the projector, this becomes almost unnoticeable.


I'm using a HTPC to send the signal to the PJ. Anyone in the Oregon area handle these kind of issues? I often head up to the Portland area too, so I could bring it by a shop if there are any around that area. I don't have the money to have a proffessional set it up in my home, but I'd love to see what it would be if I could take it to a shop and have someone tinker on it for a few hours.... Thanks for the info/ help from this awesome community.

 

[Briands]

This buzz is very common for ceiling mounting. See this thread for some information. I replaced the offending cap over the weekend and now no buzzing.

 

[Marshall F]

The fan noise could be attributed to reorienting the pj upside down. The flexing housing causes this, I believe.


The buzzing could be a cap on the pg deflection board that is being stressed more than before. Check out THIS thread discussing upgrading it. There are a few others, just search NEC PG and quite a few will come up.


Pop & Hiss... Not sure. Are you performing adjustments with a source signal? Be sure not to send it asignal it can't handle through the HTCP.


Also, since you are setting it up agian, het Tinman & Feathers guide, and make sire to zero out all of your electrical settings.


Marshall

 

[Marshall F]

No foolin - wait till someone like Doug has a chance to see this thread before you turn it on again. I'd want to hear from him about the flickering before doing anything else.

 

[Darkprpl]

Thanks. I checked out the other threads, and the capacitor on mine is a 10uF, so looking into the 470uF and found one for $3 at B. G. Micro here is a linky for anyone else searching for such a thing:

http://www.bgmicro.com/prodinfo.asp?...time_out=44:37


if the link expires or something it is part CAP1062, it is a 470uf/200V radial snap-in. 1-3/16" in diameter, 1-916" tall, 85 degrees C. manuf by Nippon Chemi-con.


After I figure out what else is going on will have that put in by professional. (I'm fair with soldering, but never done it on anything so deadly and valuable)


As for the other thing... It doesn't seem to matter if I have a signal going in or not, such as if I turn off the PC, it still kinda flickers/bounces. It is not huge in doing it, almost like looking at an old TV with the Vsync slightly off and acting like the picture might want to scroll at anytime. I thought it was less while watching video, but realize now that that is just because the video isn't using the full screen... its widescreen, and the flickering seems to be more prominent in the corners of the projected image. Also, when it first happened, it threw the blue CRT beam outa wack as it was nearly converged, although I was gonna clear everything and redo all my settings for ceiling mount.

 

[Curt Palme]

I'd get a 105 degree cap if you can. It will last a lot longer.


Curt

 

[Doug Baisey]

Pop and hiss isnt a good thing and if it smells..well.


If you changed from floor to ceiling configuration the politary needs to be done right. The yokes and also the C drive connections need to be done then in the settings menu change to front ceiling in the astig output if it applies to your model.


If everything checks out ok then check the HOUT voltage on the deflection board, I have seen that pot get dirty and do as you described but rapid.


Its hard to determine without seeing and hearing but check everything.

When you flip over make sure there are no loose screws that can rest on top of the motherboard causing a short. That in itself can be pretty ugly. Doug

 

[pcCinema]

I'm probably the only person in Oregon with half a clue and that's being generous. You'd have to drive all the way into Canada for Curt if you want a pro, but hey it's not all that far.


If you hear pops I'd bet you have a HV arc or a tube shorting out. That would also cause the picture to jump and when it gets worse it'll start shutting down with an f8 error code. Not only that but it's simply a matter of time before those arcs find a bad path through ground and start taking out boards. When Marshall said wait... Believe him he is freaking right!


I'd like to help but there isn't a chance in hell I will have time to go down there to Springfield. I have lots of relatives in Eugene where I grew up I could and should visit too but it aint gonna happen. If you wanted I could fix it if you bring it to me, and I have PG parts up the wazoo if you make it before I take them to the dump due to lack of room.


Seriously, you are about to loose that thing entirely if you continue to run it or at a minimum you'll smoke some boards real quick.


If you must and I mean MUST continue to run it do so with the cover off or open and stare in the thing looking for where the sparks are coming from when it pops. If you are truly lucky you'll see where and if even more lucky you'll just have a bad insulator spot or something and a blob of silicone can fix that. If you go that route be damn sure the silicone dries before you try again or it'll make things even worse.


Danger Danger Will Robinson! DO NOT TAKE THIS PROBLEM LIGHTLY!!!


Troy

 

[pcCinema]

Hey I should have emphasised the parts and going to the dump thing more than I did... Get your butt up here and they're yours, free, please...

I hate to waste things.


I can't fix her for free. Sorry but time is money for real, but hey the parts are truly completely **** free**** so even if you just come grab them at least you have some cushion to fall back on if things get ugly. I don't have everything, but I do have most things.


Troy

 

[Darkprpl]

Troy;


Hey, I actually moved out to Coos Bay, so I'm sure you really don't want to make a trip to there...lol. But like I said, I go to Portland regularly, so I'd be thankful for whatever help you could give me. I'm actually gonna be in the Portland area Thursday(tommorrow), I could load her up and bring it by, probably sometime after 3pm(when I'd be available in Portland area). I have a truck and lots of storage room, I'd be happy to take anything of your hands you want to get rid of. (and if they are anything I've been looking for, I'll do my best to compensate for that as well) I don't know what are reasonable fees for your expertise, especially since I don't know how much time its gonna take you, but as much as my wife is crying about not getting to watch any movies...I'm sure there is some room in the budget for that...


As to the problem. I haven't been running it since it made the sound, other than once for about 5 minutes yesterday to re-examine the situation. It doesn't make any noise other than the previously mentioned fans, and a bit of buzz (from the cap I assume). But it is still doing the flickering thing.


Thanks again.

 

[Darkprpl]

btw, back to the Cap, haven't been able to find any that are 105 degree all are the 85 degree. Anyone have a source?

 

[sly]

digikey has 105°C 470µF 200V caps

 

[pcCinema]

"As to the problem. I haven't been running it since it made the sound, other than once for about 5 minutes yesterday to re-examine the situation. It doesn't make any noise other than the previously mentioned fans, and a bit of buzz (from the cap I assume). But it is still doing the flickering thing."


Oh, ok... Well if it's not the arcing I suspected then really I'm not the one to look at it.


Did you maximize phosphor usage or turn any pots inside before the expanding problem? I have had that before once but just ended up parting it out. When I took that one apart I did notice either the c-drive or f-drvie was charred visibly. (don't recall which it was.)

I couln't see it was burned until removal. I don't have c or f drive boards, those are one of the first things to go and I'm out of the stk chips for them.


You can still come grab up some parts. I'm in beaverton. I'll pm my phone number and address.


TRoy