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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi all,

I didn't see anything quite like this in a previous thread, so I thought I should create one - if there is one, just let me know and I will attach to that one.

As some of you know, I burned myself by heavily modding an iNuke that ended up breaking - and voided warranty, so no free amp repair. After licking my wounds and purchasing new amps (why only buy 1 when I can buy 2) I set out on a mission to figure out how I could add a 12v trigger to the amp (wanted it to be internal) without risking a warranty breach.

That meant modding the amp in such a way that everything could be removed without any sign of tampering - so I couldn't cut wires. So I got creative with jumpers and placement. It's hard to tell from the pictures, but I didn't cut any of the original wires. If anyone has any specific questions regarding the way I routed wires, let me know.

My implementation is a modded version of this thread: http://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-d...pro-amp-relay-box-nasty-power-down-thump.html

Here is the inside:


Used solid core wire from RadioShack to jump from the mini PC fan connector to the board


Other end looks like this:


When all buttoned up, here is the 12v trigger cable routed through one of the fan screw holes:


12v Trigger Extension Module
I found out from a previous mod, my receiver didn't have enough power to turn on one of the massive Omron relays along with my 4 Emotiva XPA amps. With my new setup, I was going to need to power 2 of the big Omron relays along with my XPA amps, so I needed a separate power supply to add more power to the 12v triggers.

Pain Infliction showed me this Emotiva unit:https://emotiva.com/products/accessories/et-3

I wanted two inputs - 1 for my 2 channel setup (I use an iNuke to run my stereo bass bins) and 1 input to run the LFE channel (second iNuke). Rather than spend the money to buy 2 ET3s, I decided to try and make my own.

I ended up purchasing (1)of these:http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00M6HOAYC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

(1) of these:http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002BENLY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

A number of these (just add up the number of inputs and outputs you want): http://www.amazon.com/Parts-Express...+CIRCUIT&pebp=1422636465882&peasin=B0002KR42U


(1) of these - http://www.amazon.com/Metal-Panel-M...422614317&sr=1-2&keywords=DC+Panel+mount+Jack

(1) of something similar to (1 to 2a will be more than plenty): http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K6AHNWC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I think it cost about $35 at most. Works great, allows me to independently turn on my two iNukes and I have 2 120mm PC fans running off of the other 2 12v triggers.

Project below:




 

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@kmerhar

I dig this...a lot.

The link you reference to the emotiva product is dead. Can you fix it?

Let's say that one did not have access to a local RatShack and needed to purchase everything online (let's say through amazon to keep it simple). Can you consolidate links of every piece of hardware that you purchased for this build?

I see you posted links to a few of the items but not all. I found this for the 3.5mm panel mount jack. Would this work:
http://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Stereo-Panel-Mount-Jack/dp/B000ML4A2Q/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1422614081&sr=1-1&keywords=1%2F8+jack

Found this for the DC Mount Jack. Will it work:
http://www.amazon.com/Metal-Panel-M...422614317&sr=1-2&keywords=DC+Panel+mount+Jack

Can you post up the power supply that you used?

I'm asking all these questions, 1) because I don't know the answers, and 2) to have all of the information in your first post so the layman (such as myself) can have a link to everything to develop a turnkey solution.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Popalock.


The Emotiva link is still working for me - hmmm. IF anyone else is having trouble let me know. The device is the Emotiva ET3, if anyone is interested in hunting it down.


Good recommendations. I have added the other necessary links to the main body. I should post a schematic - as a layman myself, it took a lot of trial and error :)
 
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there was an outboard 12v relay build a few years ago by Mrkazador iirc and which is also over at HST,
I'm on a different computer right now so that link is otherwise buried
but for the DIY , the j-box build is ell photographed
This build is way cool . . .
I suppose that the Niles AC-3 for about $125 is a simpler answer for some but they also want you to buy the 12v trigger gizmo too
 

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Hello kmerhar,

Would it be possible for you to post detailed instructions as to the steps you took to wire up the replay? I have an inuke being delivered soon and will need to get a relay working for it so i do not have to turn it on manually. I would like to go a route that does not void the warranty.

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hello kmerhar,

Would it be possible for you to post detailed instructions as to the steps you took to wire up the replay? I have an inuke being delivered soon and will need to get a relay working for it so i do not have to turn it on manually. I would like to go a route that does not void the warranty.

Thanks!
Sure thing. This weekend I will work some up for you
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
SORRY for all the delays. I have put together the best guide I can think of with the little stuff I have. I have switched my setup to run off of z-wave enabled outlets, so I pulled the relays out - otherwise I would just do a walkthrough video.

Original Wiring for reference
http://i.imgur.com/snGU7jo.jpg[/img

This is just for reference of what the amp looks like without any mods. Credit to member sslv2pwned for the photo. It's from the original thread I referenced above.

[B]Relay wiring scheme[/B]
[img]http://i.imgur.com/oU1DUtN.png
1. Input for the low voltage (red wire only)
2. Output for the low voltage wire (red wire only)
3. Input for the power line (red wire only)
4. Output for the power line (red wire only) - goes to the on/off switch
5 & 6: These are for the 12v trigger. Doesn't matter which side you hook which wire up to.

Re-wiring done

1. This is the negative side of the power line
2. This is the positive side of the power line
3. This is the on/off switch side of the low voltage switch
5. This is where the low voltage connection between your extension and the original wiring is. The left side of the connection is the original wire and plug. The right side your new DIY extender using solid core wire (so you can stick it into the holes of the existing connector/plug). The black is just an extension running straight to the board where it originally plugged in. The red wire runs to the output for the low voltage on the relay.
6. This is the where that connector in #5 goes to on the main board. The low voltage.
7. This is where you need to make a jumper from the negative power line input to the negative power line running to the on/off switch.


So to summarize:
1. Run a jumper from red wire power line input to the relay. Then connect the power line from the on/off switch to the relay.

2. Make a jumper to connect the black/negative power line wire from the main board to the on/off switch board. I think I just used a grinded down piece of metal that acted as a jumper between the two connectors - then I just wrapped them in electrical tape.

3. Make a jumper out of a mini pc fan connector. Plug the connector side of your jumper into the main board. Then plug the negative wire into the negative side of the original jumper. Then plug the red/positive side of the jumper into the input for the low voltage on the relay. Lastly, make another tiny jumper and run it from the output for low voltage on the relay. That takes care of the low voltage

4. Connect the 12v trigger wire to the relay.

Should be ready to go!

Specific parts needed for relay:

Omron relay: http://www.mouser.com/Search/Produc...2virtualkey65300000virtualkey653-G7L-2AJ-DC12

A 12v trigger cable - something like this
http://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Right-A...427945582&sr=8-2&keywords=mono+cable+bare+end

12 gauge stranded wire from Home Depot - I just got some dark grey and pink coated stuff

Mini pc fan connector - I ordered these - but I would try to find something a little longer if you can

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007PQ0V6A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
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Hi all,

I didn't see anything quite like this in a previous thread, so I thought I should create one - if there is one, just let me know and I will attach to that one.

As some of you know, I burned myself by heavily modding an iNuke that ended up breaking - and voided warranty, so no free amp repair. After licking my wounds and purchasing new amps (why only buy 1 when I can buy 2) I set out on a mission to figure out how I could add a 12v trigger to the amp (wanted it to be internal) without risking a warranty breach.

That meant modding the amp in such a way that everything could be removed without any sign of tampering - so I couldn't cut wires. So I got creative with jumpers and placement. It's hard to tell from the pictures, but I didn't cut any of the original wires. If anyone has any specific questions regarding the way I routed wires, let me know.

My implementation is a modded version of this thread: http://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-d...pro-amp-relay-box-nasty-power-down-thump.html

Here is the inside:


Used solid core wire from RadioShack to jump from the mini PC fan connector to the board


Other end looks like this:


When all buttoned up, here is the 12v trigger cable routed through one of the fan screw holes:


12v Trigger Extension Module
I found out from a previous mod, my receiver didn't have enough power to turn on one of the massive Omron relays along with my 4 Emotiva XPA amps. With my new setup, I was going to need to power 2 of the big Omron relays along with my XPA amps, so I needed a separate power supply to add more power to the 12v triggers.

Pain Infliction showed me this Emotiva unit:https://emotiva.com/products/accessories/et-3

I wanted two inputs - 1 for my 2 channel setup (I use an iNuke to run my stereo bass bins) and 1 input to run the LFE channel (second iNuke). Rather than spend the money to buy 2 ET3s, I decided to try and make my own.

I ended up purchasing (1)of these:http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00M6HOAYC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

(1) of these:http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002BENLY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

A number of these (just add up the number of inputs and outputs you want): http://www.amazon.com/Parts-Express...+CIRCUIT&pebp=1422636465882&peasin=B0002KR42U


(1) of these - http://www.amazon.com/Metal-Panel-M...422614317&sr=1-2&keywords=DC+Panel+mount+Jack

(1) of something similar to (1 to 2a will be more than plenty): http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K6AHNWC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I think it cost about $35 at most. Works great, allows me to independently turn on my two iNukes and I have 2 120mm PC fans running off of the other 2 12v triggers.

Project below:




great work, can you share how to wire those cables? i find myself a little bit confused on input side

thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Sure. Are you asking about the trigger module?

I can create a diagram that clears it up :)
 

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Sure. Are you asking about the trigger module?

I can create a diagram that clears it up :)
yes, i am talking about that trigger module. that's very nice of you. i've already got all the parts needed, but a little bit confused on wiring.

thanks
 

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Hey

Unless it needs to be on a separate circuit to your avr/pre-pro I don't understand why you need the relay.
Just use one of those "powersaver" power boards with your avr set as the master and the inuke as slave.

I can't post links as it's my first post. Sorry. Google eco solutions six way master/slave powerboard.

I used this board to do mine and it works really well.

Anyway, if it's not for you thats cool but it was a simple non invasive fix for me.

Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk
 

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Hey

Unless it needs to be on a separate circuit to your avr/pre-pro I don't understand why you need the relay.
Just use one of those "powersaver" power boards with your avr set as the master and the inuke as slave.

I can't post links as it's my first post. Sorry. Google eco solutions six way master/slave powerboard.

I used this board to do mine and it works really well.

Anyway, if it's not for you thats cool but it was a simple non invasive fix for me.

Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk


If you use a powerstrip to cut the power to an iNuke amp, you get a nasty thump. You need to wire it internally to prevent that from happening.
 

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If you use a powerstrip to cut the power to an iNuke amp, you get a nasty thump. You need to wire it internally to prevent that from happening.
This only happens on the DSP models, right? Or is this a concern on the non-DSP models as well?
 

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Sure. Are you asking about the trigger module?

I can create a diagram that clears it up :)
Old thread, but did you ever make that diagram ?
 
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I think you are correct. IIRC, it was limited to the DSP models.
I know it's an old thread, but just in case somebody finds it. I use the power strip method on a non DSP iNuke 6000. There is a very small power down thump that is not annoying or loud at all.
 
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