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Discussion Starter #81

Quote:
Originally Posted by chalugadp  /t/1496365/another-ltd02-designed-sub-build/60#post_23893238


Yep , that's the same one I got. Remember in bridge mode to move negative connection to plus two. I found it easier with the speakon cable to remove the screw all the way , pop out the circle washer , and push the cable in all the way and tighten screw . Just threw out washer.

Thanks for confirming and for the tips. BTW, I agree with your comments in the other thread about us Canucks getting hosed with higher prices plus the higher taxes. It's obscene how much I have saved by cross border shopping---even when I drive to buffalo and back!!
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by atabea  /t/1496365/another-ltd02-designed-sub-build/60#post_23893323


[quote name="chalugadp" url="/t/1496365/another-ltd02-designed-sub-build/60#post_23893238"]Yep , that's the same one I got. Remember in bridge mode to move negative connection to plus two. I found it easier with the speakon cable to remove the screw all the way , pop out the circle washer , and push the cable in all the way and tighten screw . Just threw out washer.
Thanks for confirming and for the tips. BTW, I agree with your comments in the other thread about us Canucks getting hosed with higher prices plus the higher taxes. It's obscene how much I have saved by cross border shopping---even when I drive to buffalo and back!!
[/QUOTE]


My wife does most of her shopping online through the states. Can beat the prices for name.brands . I don't understand the logic of supporting someone who ships in his product made in China but then sells in Canada and then your supporting Canadian business . I love to go on trips to small towns in British Columbia and Washington state and buying local artists stuff. Can get some neat stuff for good prices.


Getting back to avs talk .... watched the mentalist tv show and the bass during that show is really cool.
 

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Discussion Starter #84
Just finished gluing the base, sides and port braces. Doing the sides was a bit tricky since my carpenter's square is only 24 inches tall and the side panels are 30 inches tall. Anyway, things are coming along fine.


The discoloration on the bottom panel is where I had just wiped off the excess glue with a damp cloth.


 

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Discussion Starter #85

Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02  /t/1496365/another-ltd02-designed-sub-build/60#post_23893508


speakon connectors are easy enough to attach to wire.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hCjpP0kYBAU


the speakon for the box that you identified has open air flow. not sure if that matters.

The video looks simple enough. Was that a typical "sub-woofer" cable in the demonstration? LTD, not sure I understand what "open air flow" means.
 

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Discussion Starter #86
Update:


I am almost finished with constructing the box; all I have to do next is glue the front baffles and the top panel. Before I do that, I have to "stuff" the insides with something---I am leaning toward pillows. If I do go with pillows, how many should I get and where exactly should I place them?





In the meantime, I snagged a Inuke 3000 DSP for $239 shipped. The original plan was to get the 6000 but the price for the 3000 was too good to pass up.


Had a little snag with the Driver, as they sent me the 15 D4 by mistake. The folks at SI were really good about it though and they promptly shipped a 18 D4 which is on the way and should be delivered to my friends's place tomorrow. I just have to find the time to make another trip to Buffalo (from Whitby, Ontario).


Now that I have the 3000DSP, my long term goal is to drive two MARTYS with it. In the mean time, I would like to bridge the amp and run the single Marty until I can find the time to build another box. On that note, I was wondering what was the the best way to wire my current (single) marty/amp so that I won't have to open up the box when I add a second marty.


Seeing as my build is a variation of the Marty sub, I am thinking it should be called something different. I have dubbed it the Manhattan--in honour of LTD's avatar (Dr. Manhattan).




Thanks,


Rick
 

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Rick, that sub looks AWESOME!!


You've done a great job with the bracing.
I know it felt like the bracing would never end, but you are in the home stretch now! Good job dude. For the stuffing, I was planning on adding two or three pillows from Walmart and just stapling them to the bracing so they wouldn't shift.


Mike (I'm listening to some bass heavy dubstep as I type this
ENEMY by Phuterprimitive)
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by atabea  /t/1496365/another-ltd02-designed-sub-build/60#post_23949869


Seeing as my build is a variation of the Marty sub, I am thinking it should be called something different. I have dubbed it the Manhattan--in honour of LTD's avatar (Dr. Manhattan).


Thanks,

Rick

Wait a minute, I thought that was the Silver Surfer!?!? Do I need a Marvel refresher course??
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by atabea  /t/1496365/another-ltd02-designed-sub-build/60#post_23881670


I will be using speakon wires and connectors to connect the amp to the sub (inuke 6000dsp). Particularly, I will be using speakon NL4MP-ST connectors http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=092-053&scqty=4

Hey Rick ( @atabea ),


I just noticed that the NL4MP-ST chassis connectors are not air tight, I don't know how big an issue that is with this huge sub, especially since it is a ported design, but....
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by mhutchins  /t/1496365/another-ltd02-designed-sub-build/60#post_23950663


Rick, that sub looks AWESOME!!


You've done a great job with the bracing.
I know it felt like the bracing would never end, but you are in the home stretch now! Good job dude. For the stuffing, I was planning on adding two or three pillows from Walmart and just stapling them to the bracing so they wouldn't shift.


Mike (I'm listening to some bass heavy dubstep as I type this
ENEMY by Phuterprimitive)

Symphony of destruction by megadeath sounds unreal with marty.
 

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Discussion Starter #91

Quote:
Originally Posted by mhutchins  /t/1496365/another-ltd02-designed-sub-build/60#post_23950720


Hey Rick ( @atabea ),


I just noticed that the NL4MP-ST chassis connectors are not air tight, I don't know how big an issue that is with this huge sub, especially since it is a ported design, but....

I bought these sealing gasket just to ensure an air tight fit. https://www.parts-express.com/neutrik-scdp-0-sealing-gasket-for-d-size-connectors-black--092-094

And I also got the NL4MP-UC which is supposed to be air tight. https://www.parts-express.com/neutrik-nl4mp-uc-speakon-connector-4-pole-panel-mount--092-067


And you are right, those bracing is the most time consuming and least fun part of the build. Otherwise it was a very straight forward process--thanks to your very detailed build sequence.


thanks


Rick
 

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Quote:
And you are right, those bracing is the most time consuming and least fun part of the build. Otherwise it was a very straight forward process--thanks to your very detailed build sequence.


Yes that looks real nice, a box load! nice job man. It’s coming together very nicely.
 

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Discussion Starter #93
^^^^^^^^ Thanks steve nn, I should have the box completed this weekend, after which I will start sanding, priming and painting (duratex).


I still need to figure out how to wire the driver/amp/speakon connectors for best performance and also to be able to accommodate a second unit without having to remove the driver of the first unit. I am also going with pillows for stuffing but I just can't grasp the concept of how many pillows I need and exactly where they should be placed. I have searched for pictures but all I can find are other type of stuffing such as foam and loose poly fill---never any "whole" pillows. Perhaps the usual suspects (experts) can chime in on this.


Thanks,


Rick
 

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I know, the whole pillow thing is fairly new to me too, but I understand the concept. I would place one on the back of your sub and one one the bottom and call it good! I might even elect to just do the back and try it out. The speakon issue I have no experience with, so sorry I can’t even suggest regarding.
 

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?


if by that you mean to eliminate the resonance in the frequency response, that's right.
 

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Discussion Starter #98

Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02  /t/1496365/another-ltd02-designed-sub-build/90#post_23955265

http://www.data-bass.com/data?page=content&id=79


and

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1153089/700-playhouse-sub-ported-fi-q18/60#post_16709957


3 pillows would be a good start.


just plop them in there toward the middle of the cab.

Great! thanks LTD. I will pick up the pillows today. From what I have read, it would be best if I wire the voice coils in series for 8 ohms and use the 3000 DSP in bridged mode like this:

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1489541/large-ported-dayton-ho18s/480#post_23840909


As for the Amp, I would have to take the black wire connected to 1- on the Speakon connector and and transfer it to the hole labeled 2+. Should this process also be done on the other end of the cable where it connects to the sub?


Since I plan on adding a second sub to this amp, are there any other steps I should take while I still have the box open?


Thanks


Rick
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02  /t/1496365/another-ltd02-designed-sub-build/90#post_23955686


?


if by that you mean to eliminate the resonance in the frequency response, that's right.

I was just talking dampening sound reflections/internal resonances, not enouph to change the freq response. I think we're on the same page.
 

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"From what I have read, it would be best if I wire the voice coils in series for 8 ohms and use the 3000 DSP in bridged mode like this"


there are two ways to wire it and they produce the same result.


1. wire coils in series for 8 ohms per driver. wire drivers in parallel for 4 ohms net. connect to amp and run amp in bridged mode.


2. wire coils in parallel for 2 ohms per driver. wire one driver onto each channel. connect to amp and run amp in stereo mode.


method 2 presents the least confusion with connecting the speakons, I think.


either way, same result.


"are there any other steps I should take while I still have the box open?"


be sure to check your wiring with a 9v battery. you want forward cone motion with + on sub to + on battery. if you get no motion, that means the coil wiring is screwed up. if the cone goes in, it is wired backwards.
 
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