Just finished up the crossovers (other than zip ties). I have very little experience soldering and it has been at least 10 years since I have soldered anything,but the boards make it super simple for anyone who is worried about doing them yourself.
Thanks! I don't think I will have a chance to start cutting wood for a couple weeks now, but I am planning on attempting to model in WinISD tonight. I assume that can be used to to model just the woofers of the 1299? @blister64 has his tuned to 35 hz, and @Jk7.2 tuned to 30 hz. I have considered of just copying JK7.2's build, but I have the room to build them taller and deeper if there is benefit to that I just want to get the best midbass I can out of them.Congrats and good luck with your new build! I'd definitely recommend modeling things before building. I may be way off base here, but it seemed to me from modeling and from the delta 12b specs that tuning super low wasn't a great option, at least when the wattage is turned up. Maybe a more seasoned member can chime in and correct me.
I would ask blister64 and JK7.2 for some advice and probably copy one of their builds.You won't see any benefit going larger than their designs.I would choose either 30Hz or 35Hz instead of trying to reinvent the wheel.Thanks! I don't think I will have a chance to start cutting wood for a couple weeks now, but I am planning on attempting to model in WinISD tonight. I assume that can be used to to model just the woofers of the 1299? @blister64 has his tuned to 35 hz, and @Jk7.2 tuned to 30 hz. I have considered of just copying JK7.2's build, but I have the room to build them taller and deeper if there is benefit to that I just want to get the best midbass I can out of them.
The LR will be sitting right next to a full marty, and I assume that regardless of how deep they are they should be pulled away from the wall to be flush with the front of the subs, rather than having them pushed back against the wall reflecting off the sides of the subs?
All that being said, I rarely listen without subs so maybe porting higher would be better, I'm still going back and forth.
I posted some graphs recently on my build thread if you want to check them out:Thanks! I don't think I will have a chance to start cutting wood for a couple weeks now, but I am planning on attempting to model in WinISD tonight. I assume that can be used to to model just the woofers of the 1299? @blister64 has his tuned to 35 hz, and @Jk7.2 tuned to 30 hz. I have considered of just copying JK7.2's build, but I have the room to build them taller and deeper if there is benefit to that I just want to get the best midbass I can out of them.
The LR will be sitting right next to a full marty, and I assume that regardless of how deep they are they should be pulled away from the wall to be flush with the front of the subs, rather than having them pushed back against the wall reflecting off the sides of the subs?
All that being said, I rarely listen without subs so maybe porting higher would be better, I'm still going back and forth.
Those look fantastic! Nice work!Just finished getting the speakers finished up today. Haven't had a chance to get any measurements done or much listening other than a quick demo to make sure everything is working, but love them so far. Included a pic of the klipsch speakers they are replacing.
Also need to build/find some bigger wedges to angle the center channel up. The tiny little bookshelf wedges I had under the old center arent gonna cut it lol.
One random note, I am a little sad to see that Duratex is not as dark as the bedliner I got from Lowes that I painted the subs with (Rhinoliner I think?). Duratex did seem to go on more uniform, but I would have rather had the darker color in hindsight. Live and learn.