AVS Forum banner

1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
See post #13 for what I wound up doing.

I’m curious to hear from people with a similar situation what they did and how it worked out. I’ve already read many, many threads, so thanks to the people that contribute here. Sorry for the length, but I wanted to be thorough.

My Situation:
Living Room and dining room with multiple windows which will get Roman shades with blackout backing. White ceiling, light gray wall on one side, open room on the other, hardwood floors. Dimmable/off LED overhead lighting. I’m not allowed to do room treatment (outside of black velvet on the LCR speakers) in this room. I already know the difference it makes as I’ve done some for our basement projector setup and have that room do more what I want. It is what it is. I need to make the best of a less than ideal situation imposed by the room and my wife. I"m trying to open up the living room dining room space and come up with a passable viewing situation. See photos below.

I'll be putting the screen in the archway in place of the Panasonic plasma and moving the equipment to a rack under the glass block windows in first pic. Projector will be on far right of first pic, ceiling mounted.

Dimension and desired placements:
Room: 122” W x 96” H x 132” D
Seating distance: 9'
Screen size: 92”
Screen to back of projector max: 127” (Leaves enough room for plugs and screen pushout)
14.5” max drop from ceiling desired (window line)
93.5” between speakers mounted in archway
Bottom of screen at 23” above floor (about ideal viewing height)
Bottom of arch to floor 86 1/4”

I’m thinking of picking up a refurb Epson 5030UB – would make throw distance 108”. It has the vertical lens shift needed (a lot) and I may need a little horizontal – house is plaster walls/ceiling with no access from above. I don’t have a 4K receiver or player up here. Content played here is mostly animated and animal shows on Disney+ and Netflix shows through an older Firestick. The occasional family movie on the old Oppo 93.

Have to do a motorized screen hanging from the archway as that is what works for the space constraints. From what I’ve read in these forums, gray or gray ALR seem to be the preference in this case. Thoughts? Experience with a similar situation?

I'd like suggestions for an inexpensive screen and material. I don’t see a reason to spend a lot given the constraints also with the placement out in the open and two kids under ten, there is always the small chance of an accident. I’d feel less bad about a sub $1000 accident.

Also, any thoughts on my projector choice? Or an elegant solution I haven't thought of that doesn't go out of the stated bounds.

3037184


3037185


3037186
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,141 Posts
I'm adding a projector to my living room as well and added blackout drapes last week and will be adding a Screen Innovations Solo Pro 2 motorized screen. I will be putting a new tv over my fireplace using a mantle mount for every day tv watching.

Could you place the screen over the safety glass wall insert instead of the doorway?

SI Solo Pro 2 motorized Screen
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the suggestion, but it would create a different problem. If I mounted the screen on the glass block window wall the couch would cut the living room in half due to the widths of the room and couch. There would be about a 12" gap between the couch and fireplace.

I am curious to hear more about your screen. Material chosen, size, and price to know if it's something I should consider. If you could PM me the price if it isn't allowed in the thread. Which projector are you getting?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,141 Posts
Thanks for the suggestion, but it would create a different problem. If I mounted the screen on the glass block window wall the couch would cut the living room in half due to the widths of the room and couch. There would be about a 12" gap between the couch and fireplace.

I am curious to hear more about your screen. Material chosen, size, and price to know if it's something I should consider. If you could PM me the price if it isn't allowed in the thread. Which projector are you getting?
Gotcha...that makes sense.

I’m looking at screen innovations motorized screens in 100” with JVC NX5 or NX7. My screen will be going over a series of 3 windows. I added blackout drapes last weekend, pics below. The tv and cabinet will be removed when the screen is installed.






Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,262 Posts
All I can ask is why a projector? You stated you already have a projector setup else where so why one here. I would need to see a floor plan but really there must be another way to get a TV in that room without blocking the archway. A TV makes a lot more since in that room as I am sure your are aware of the light control issues alone. What's the main use of the TV here as compared to your setup elsewhere?
 
  • Like
Reactions: noob00224

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,644 Posts
I’m curious to hear from people with a similar situation what they did and how it worked out. I’ve already read many, many threads, so thanks to the people that contribute here. Sorry for the length, but I wanted to be thorough.

My Situation:
Living Room and dining room with multiple windows which will get Roman shades with blackout backing. White ceiling, light gray wall on one side, open room on the other, hardwood floors. Dimmable/off LED overhead lighting. I’m not allowed to do room treatment (outside of black velvet on the LCR speakers) in this room. I already know the difference it makes as I’ve done some for our basement projector setup and have that room do more what I want. It is what it is. I need to make the best of a less than ideal situation imposed by the room and my wife. I"m trying to open up the living room dining room space and come up with a passable viewing situation. See photos below.

I'll be putting the screen in the archway in place of the Panasonic plasma and moving the equipment to a rack under the glass block windows in first pic. Projector will be on far right of first pic, ceiling mounted.

Dimension and desired placements:
Room: 122” W x 96” H x 132” D
Seating distance: 9'
Screen size: 92”
Screen to back of projector max: 127” (Leaves enough room for plugs and screen pushout)
14.5” max drop from ceiling desired (window line)
93.5” between speakers mounted in archway
Bottom of screen at 23” above floor (about ideal viewing height)
Bottom of arch to floor 86 1/4”

I’m thinking of picking up a refurb Epson 5030UB – would make throw distance 108”. It has the vertical lens shift needed (a lot) and I may need a little horizontal – house is plaster walls/ceiling with no access from above. I don’t have a 4K receiver or player up here. Content played here is mostly animated and animal shows on Disney+ and Netflix shows through an older Firestick. The occasional family movie on the old Oppo 93.

Have to do a motorized screen hanging from the archway as that is what works for the space constraints. From what I’ve read in these forums, gray or gray ALR seem to be the preference in this case. Thoughts? Experience with a similar situation?

I'd like suggestions for an inexpensive screen and material. I don’t see a reason to spend a lot given the constraints also with the placement out in the open and two kids under ten, there is always the small chance of an accident. I’d feel less bad about a sub $1000 accident.

Also, any thoughts on my projector choice? Or an elegant solution I haven't thought of that doesn't go out of the stated bounds.

View attachment 3037184

View attachment 3037185

View attachment 3037186
How about a curtain system?

I think you mean the projector will be in the far left of the first picture.

Screen size is subjective, but 92" diagonal from 9' is rather small.
If the distance between the two speakers is 93.5", a larger screen could be had. Something like 106" if it's without a black border, depends how thick the border is (usually it's ~2").

If distance from back of the wall to screen is ~127", with a screen of 92" diagonal will have a throw ratio of
127 / 80.2 = 1.58x
For an 106" it's ~1.4x

Throw ratio is important is getting a projector capable of it. More importantly, ALR screens generally require a longer throw ratio to avoid hotspots and other visual artifacts. Screens that don't artifact at lower throw ratios ( or artifact little) are expensive, unless you can paint a screen yourself with a custom paint mix (paint gun).

Visual artifacts in this type of scenario are most visible in bright scenes. It depends on the projector and fabric as well. Pictures/videos on the internet don't always give the correct impression.
Here are two examples. The first is a one placed at ~1.35x throw ratio, second is ~1.5x.





If the room can be treated, a white screen would be fine, although a paint mix will definitely improve picture quality.
If the room can't be treated I would still recommend a painted screen>white screen>alr screen (depending if you're ok with artifacts).

A painted screen can be easily repaired.

Keep in mind that with the types of ALR (angular) screens we're discussing here there must not be any light source from the same direction as the projector.


For screen drop research a screen that can do what you need, after deciding what type of screen you'll get.


Regarding the projector, the 5030 which I assume you're getting from Epson directly is a nice unit.

I don't know why horizontal lens shift would be required.
When both horizontal and vertical lens shift are used the range becomes smaller:

There are other projector models, with and without lens shift. If most of what's being watched is animation, others may be available.

Finally, as rekbones said, TVs have grown in size and dropped in price. I would seriously consider finding a way to place a larger TV there.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
@mbroadus Looked up SI, yeah you're on different playground than me expenditure wise. Should be a really nice setup. I'll be hypocritical for a minute and say, I'd think about room treatment beyond the blackout drapes to take advantage of the quality projector/screen. Though maybe a dollar to me is a penny to you :)

@rekbones I agree a TV makes more sense from a quality of video perspective. Other factors outweigh that if I can get the projector setup good enough. We've lived with what I initially designed for 10 years (LCR and TV all can swivel to the dining room when desired - which used to be occasionally and now rare and all the wiring is pretty well hidden, which is much more difficult in a house with plaster walls and ceilings) and we want to open up the space more. Mostly it will be my kids watching Disney+ and Netflix, my wife watching some Netflix and the occasional family movie. I'm the only one that cares much about good quality video or audio. The outside light should be pretty well tamed when desired by the window treatments whenever my wife gets those picked out. It's more the ceiling/walls/floor and I maybe a little ambient light from the other rooms on the far side of the living room that I think will be a problem.

In the basement the wall with the screen is painted peppercorn, black Stratotile 8 feet out with the drop ceiling frame covered with black felt, grayish carpet tile, with plans to do a bit more. I'm the one that uses this setup the most. The larger screen size of the projector in the living room should dissuade the kids from commandeering the basement, but maybe not since I have 3 HT Design chairs coming (another space constraint to deal with). My house built in the 50's isn't very HT friendly.

Living Room is 27' L x 11' W. It's 10' 3" W where the fireplace is. Couch is 78" D x 110" W. BDI A/V rack is 24" D at widest, plus I need access to the rear panel so that makes in front of the fireplace out. Have to buy a new couch that doesn't extend out and a nice, thinner A/V rack and there would be a walkway. I highly doubt my wife would go for that and I don't think it's a good look either. Not to mention the issue with electricity in that location. The electrician couldn't run power for light switches on that wall due to the fireplace, HVAC, etc.

Beyond the fireplace is way too offset for viewing and the same issue with power.

3037684
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,141 Posts
@Rise Against - I sent you a PM.

I doubt I’ll do any room treatments other than paint the walls a darker grey color. I have the ability to control lighting and it gets pretty dark in our room but my wife and I do not like to watch in complete darkness anyway. I just have to be sure to get the correct screen.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
@noob00224 Thanks for the thoughtful response.

Having read thousands of posts lately while researching how to address my living room, I've run across your posting of this video many times before. It looks cool and is a great demonstration of what black velvet above and to the sides can do to improve the contrast. This would be a no go with the wife. There is no reasonable way to hide it that well given our house construction and it would not be cheap... There's a list of things I'll do (fix the Panny plasma, hang shelving on drywall, replace fauceta, wire lighting, etc.), but I don't do anything beyond hanging window treatments in the plaster and that is challenging - there's always one bad spot or metal screening, or something else. Just trying to peer above the plaster ceiling by starting to pull an LED light down it starts crumbling. I hate plaster.

I think you mean the projector will be in the far left of the first picture.
You are correct. Don't know my left from my right sometimes.

Screen size is subjective, but 92" diagonal from 9' is rather small.
It is subjective, but from what I've seen 9 feet is pretty optimal.
Projector Calculator | Projector Screen Calculator | Aspect Ratio Calculator | Screen Size Calculator | Distance Calculator - Projector Screen | Projection Screen
Viewing Distance Calculator -PSS
https://www.customht.com.au/blogs/home-theatre/calculating-the-ideal-screen-size-from-your-seating-position

Also, to do even a 100" screen with the Epson given the room dimensions, the projector would be sticking through the wall and I'd have to plug in the HDMI cable in power from outside. :oops: Or hang the screen in the dining room. Epson throw distance calculator. Yeah, I realize there may be a little hotspotting with an ALR. I'm pinging people with similar situations to hear/see what there experience has been. I appreciate the added links to look at.

Screens that don't artifact at lower throw ratios ( or artifact little) are expensive, unless you can paint a screen yourself with a custom paint mix (paint gun).
Have you painted a motorized screen? Come across threads where someone did this? Seems like it has the potential to lead to other issues, but I don't know what I don't know.

Keep in mind that with the types of ALR (angular) screens we're discussing here there must not be any light source from the same direction as the projector.
The windows in back of the projector will have Roman shades with blackout backing. Our house isn't always lots of windows with nothing to block out the sun. Just the last month :(

For screen drop research a screen that can do what you need, after deciding what type of screen you'll get.
Yep, I've done lots of measuring, see post #1. I know the size that works, how much black drop I need, vertical lens shift, etc. I'm leaning toward the XY Black Crystal 0.8, but trying to take in more from the experienced people on here. I see you'd go with a white screen over ALR in my situation. Could you please elaborate on why, pros/cons?

As far as the Epson 5030UB, yes refurb from Epson. Thanks for the affirmation. That has been another part of my research in landing on that.

I don't know why horizontal lens shift would be required. When both horizontal and vertical lens shift are used the range becomes smaller
As far as vertical, a lot is needed (-80s %) to get the projector up high and have the screen at the proper height. For horizontal, our ceiling sucks. I'm considering having someone who's done serious contracting work on our house hit a stud with two screws and possibly need a few inches of offset as opposed to tearing out enough ceiling to make a brace between two joists, put it all back together and then put in the mount drilled into the brace.Tossing this around in my head. He and one of his guys will be here next week to finish off the almost last part of the bathroom we just had expanded - have two girls who will be teenagers (oh, the home theater I could've built) and I'll get his opinion of the ceiling.

I have read about the limiting factor between horizontal and vertical shift, but Epson's calculator doesn't seem to limit it. Does the calculator you linked account for this? Perhaps I should call Epson, the manual didn't indicate anything either.

Finally, as rekbones said, TVs have grown in size and dropped in price. I would seriously consider finding a way to place a larger TV there.
Yeah, I've racked my brain for something that makes sense in our space and unless it's in the corner under the glass block window with 4 people on a loveseat, I haven't figured it out. My goal is to put something in that is satisfactory to the wife and kids, who have a lower bar than me, and opens up space without spending too much money. On the plus side, the sound is already pretty darn good.

Thanks again for your post. Looking forward to anything else you have to contribute as well as any answers to my latest questions.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,644 Posts
@noob00224 Thanks for the thoughtful response.

Having read thousands of posts lately while researching how to address my living room, I've run across your posting of this video many times before. It looks cool and is a great demonstration of what black velvet above and to the sides can do to improve the contrast. This would be a no go with the wife. There is no reasonable way to hide it that well given our house construction and it would not be cheap... There's a list of things I'll do (fix the Panny plasma, hang shelving on drywall, replace fauceta, wire lighting, etc.), but I don't do anything beyond hanging window treatments in the plaster and that is challenging - there's always one bad spot or metal screening, or something else. Just trying to peer above the plaster ceiling by starting to pull an LED light down it starts crumbling. I hate plaster.


You are correct. Don't know my left from my right sometimes.


It is subjective, but from what I've seen 9 feet is pretty optimal.
Projector Calculator | Projector Screen Calculator | Aspect Ratio Calculator | Screen Size Calculator | Distance Calculator - Projector Screen | Projection Screen
Viewing Distance Calculator -PSS
https://www.customht.com.au/blogs/home-theatre/calculating-the-ideal-screen-size-from-your-seating-position

Also, to do even a 100" screen with the Epson given the room dimensions, the projector would be sticking through the wall and I'd have to plug in the HDMI cable in power from outside. :oops: Or hang the screen in the dining room. Epson throw distance calculator. Yeah, I realize there may be a little hotspotting with an ALR. I'm pinging people with similar situations to hear/see what there experience has been. I appreciate the added links to look at.


Have you painted a motorized screen? Come across threads where someone did this? Seems like it has the potential to lead to other issues, but I don't know what I don't know.


The windows in back of the projector will have Roman shades with blackout backing. Our house isn't always lots of windows with nothing to block out the sun. Just the last month :(


Yep, I've done lots of measuring, see post #1. I know the size that works, how much black drop I need, vertical lens shift, etc. I'm leaning toward the XY Black Crystal 0.8, but trying to take in more from the experienced people on here. I see you'd go with a white screen over ALR in my situation. Could you please elaborate on why, pros/cons?

As far as the Epson 5030UB, yes refurb from Epson. Thanks for the affirmation. That has been another part of my research in landing on that.


As far as vertical, a lot is needed (-80s %) to get the projector up high and have the screen at the proper height. For horizontal, our ceiling sucks. I'm considering having someone who's done serious contracting work on our house hit a stud with two screws and possibly need a few inches of offset as opposed to tearing out enough ceiling to make a brace between two joists, put it all back together and then put in the mount drilled into the brace.Tossing this around in my head. He and one of his guys will be here next week to finish off the almost last part of the bathroom we just had expanded - have two girls who will be teenagers (oh, the home theater I could've built) and I'll get his opinion of the ceiling.

I have read about the limiting factor between horizontal and vertical shift, but Epson's calculator doesn't seem to limit it. Does the calculator you linked account for this? Perhaps I should call Epson, the manual didn't indicate anything either.


Yeah, I've racked my brain for something that makes sense in our space and unless it's in the corner under the glass block window with 4 people on a loveseat, I haven't figured it out. My goal is to put something in that is satisfactory to the wife and kids, who have a lower bar than me, and opens up space without spending too much money. On the plus side, the sound is already pretty darn good.

Thanks again for your post. Looking forward to anything else you have to contribute as well as any answers to my latest questions.
The calculators you posted are mainly regarding the eye's ability to resolve detail/resolution. I'm talking about immersion. They also have some very generic angles, but as I said it's subjective:

Not going to go too much into it, but an ALR screen with a wide viewing angle will generally produce less visual artifacts, hotspots, etc.

Painting a drop down screen is not a problem. To go this route create a new thread here:
There might be other similar threads, but it's recommended to make your own. As I said before, this option is cheaper and is much easier to repair than an already made ALR screen.

I was recommending a white screen in case you might not like the visual artifacts from an ALR screen. My setup is with a Cinegrey 3D which has half the viewing angle of the XY 0.8.

The calculator I linked will tell you the limitation when using both vertical and horizontal lens shift.

For the projector it sounds like the images will be colorful, so a unit that does not have the black level of the 5030 could do. DLP is also better for faster moving images.

Projectors can be used at an angle, but keystone comes into play, which is software and degrades the image if too much is used. Of course it depends who is watching, if they notice it.

If I were you I would aim for the largest diagonal possible, but that would mean a unit capable of lower throw ratio, and those don't have the lens shift the Epson has.

The Benq HT2050 and other similar units are popular. This unit does not have horizontal lens shift, so maybe a small amount of side keystone can be used.


From my calculations with the most vertical lens shift used the center of the lens (with an 106" screen starting 23" from the floor) would be ~16" from the ceiling.

From here I would recommend the HT2050/A, HT3050, HT1070A (higher throw so not as big of a screen), and HT2150ST (short throw).

Other options would be HT1070, W1070, HT1080ST.

Some of these are older and may only be found used, but DLP is more reliable than 3LCD.

With these short throws the XY or any ALR screen will not work. A custom paint mix is required because the throw ratio is so short.

(angular) ALR screen's surface is like a mirror, the projector would have to be placed at such an angle that the reflection bouncing off the screen would reach the viewer. In reality I found that it's not actually accurate, at least with my 3D.
My HT3050 is placed above the top line of the screen like in the HT2050 calculator, but the image is best when looked almost at the same height as the middle height of the screen, which is not where the beam would reflect back.

With a painted screen that will have less ALR capability that is less of a problem.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I checked out the calculator you linked to for a few minutes this morning while waiting for my work computer to get through all the security checks. It's pretty cool. The horizontal slider likes to stick, but it does clue me in to what's possible. Sad that Epson's own calculator doesn't factor in the limits of H and V shift together. And misleading.

an ALR screen with a wide viewing angle will generally produce less visual artifacts, hotspots, etc.
My setup is with a Cinegrey 3D which has half the viewing angle of the XY 0.8.
So if I correctly interpret what you wrote, the XY 0.8 has twice the viewing angle of Cinegrey 3D and would have less hotspotting/artifacting.

Thanks for the suggestions. I've got a 2050 in my basement and it works well down there. I did a lot of reading on these forums, reading reviews, manuals, etc. a few years ago when I decided on it, so I have a good grasp for what it's good for and what it's not, in part due to people like you passing on useful info.

Since it and other DLPs don't have much vertical shift, that projector would have to hang down too low unless I angled it - did the calculations (probably on a 92") and placed where that range would actually be in the room. Guess I should revisit the numbers with a 100" screen, but I think it's still too low. Also doesn't give me much wiggle room side to side depending on the mounting solution and where my joists are.

A 106" screen won't fit between the speakers once you account for any border plus the bar at the bottom is always wider still (all of them I've seen anyway) than the screen on the tab tension models. Don't think I mentioned tab-tensioned before, but from what I've read I should definitely do that instead of free hanging. A 100" barely fits depending on the model - 91/92" and could be a touch wider even.
93.5” between speakers mounted in archway
Trying to avoid keystone if at all possible, which is one of the reasons the Epson 50xx series is appealing.

@noob00224 Very interesting about what you experience with your setup, the reflection angle and viewing height interaction. How is it different visually when you view from the middle versus lower than the middle of the screen when you say better? Have you considered painting your screen?

I'd really would like to hear from more people to see what their experience is, with projector height versus screen and seating height with ALR screens, especially if they're projector is a fair bit above the screen top like I plan.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,644 Posts
I checked out the calculator you linked to for a few minutes this morning while waiting for my work computer to get through all the security checks. It's pretty cool. The horizontal slider likes to stick, but it does clue me in to what's possible. Sad that Epson's own calculator doesn't factor in the limits of H and V shift together. And misleading.



So if I correctly interpret what you wrote, the XY 0.8 has twice the viewing angle of Cinegrey 3D and would have less hotspotting/artifacting.

Thanks for the suggestions. I've got a 2050 in my basement and it works well down there. I did a lot of reading on these forums, reading reviews, manuals, etc. a few years ago when I decided on it, so I have a good grasp for what it's good for and what it's not, in part due to people like you passing on useful info.

Since it and other DLPs don't have much vertical shift, that projector would have to hang down too low unless I angled it - did the calculations (probably on a 92") and placed where that range would actually be in the room. Guess I should revisit the numbers with a 100" screen, but I think it's still too low. Also doesn't give me much wiggle room side to side depending on the mounting solution and where my joists are.

A 106" screen won't fit between the speakers once you account for any border plus the bar at the bottom is always wider still (all of them I've seen anyway) than the screen on the tab tension models. Don't think I mentioned tab-tensioned before, but from what I've read I should definitely do that instead of free hanging. A 100" barely fits depending on the model - 91/92" and could be a touch wider even.


Trying to avoid keystone if at all possible, which is one of the reasons the Epson 50xx series is appealing.

@noob00224 Very interesting about what you experience with your setup, the reflection angle and viewing height interaction. How is it different visually when you view from the middle versus lower than the middle of the screen when you say better? Have you considered painting your screen?

I'd really would like to hear from more people to see what their experience is, with projector height versus screen and seating height with ALR screens, especially if they're projector is a fair bit above the screen top like I plan.
For some reason the screen seems to be dimmer when viewed from the same angle at which the beam hits the screen. And that position is close to the floor.

I do plan to use a paint mix, just the current situation messed up my plans.

Maybe get a borderless screen.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
So, here is what I wound up doing.

Projector: refurbished Epson 5030UB
Projector Mount: QualGear Pro-AV QG-KIT-CA-3IN-W
Screen: XY Screens Black Crystal 90"
A/V Stand: Pangea Audio Vulcan Four Shelf Rack
Various: HDMI cable, cable covers, velcro wraps, a/c extension for projector screen, and surge protector strip.
Blackout Shades: Hunter Douglas

My kids have taken over this room. Which is fine with me, since it leaves the basement system to my wife and I. They primarily watch animation and animal/veterinarian shows and don't notice when they leave the lights overhead on (usually dimmed though) until I turn them off.

The intent was to get the best bang for not a lot of bucks and I did it for about $2000 (excepting the shades) including paying to have the projector and screen mounted - I dislike dealing with plaster and know contractors I could trust to put them exactly where I wanted.

It opened up the space between rooms a lot and the rest of the family doesn't notice the quality difference from the 50" Panasonic plasma. They just like the big screen. We did watch the Mandalorian series in there as a family and I only have minor quibbles except the shades.

By the way, I'm selling the plasma TV and the BDI stand that were in the room if you're near St. Louis.

The screen is good for the price. There were a few dimples that worked themselves out - a couple that only I could see and they're gone. Motor action is nice and smooth. Light rejection is good to me. There are a 3-4 roller lines. I notice one of them every once in a while when a bright scene hits it. You don't see it in the image below. I do notice when you move off-center from the screen that you know you're off center. It's odd. In the viewing area on the couch it looks fine, but my wife and I notice something when you move to the right side of the couch. It would probably cost me three times as much to get a better quality screen from what I researched, but if the kids happened to damage this one I wouldn't be nearly as bothered.

The blackout function of the shades works well. I'm just not happy given the cost how much you get nickel and dimed for everything and certainly expected a better fit and finish. There are a few aspects of functional design that I give someone an F on the shades. The windows in the picture below plus pretty much the same in the dining room was around 50% more than the A/V changes. The one thing I'd go back and do over.

3127596

3127597


Late morning, living room shades down, dining room shades up (no one cares but me). Screen doesn't look straight in the picture below, but it is. Yes, I need to adjust the roll and yaw of the mount a touch to get the picture better lined up with the screen.
3127599
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top