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Thanks for the the help. I had already recalculated and uploaded the earlier suggestion, bumped the curve down by 10hz, recalcuted, then hit upload. I see the autodetect button, do I know have to have to remeasure the room after hitting this button?



Could it be that my room gain is at zero since the subwoofer is just 5 feet behind my main listening position? Would increasing also bloat the subwoofer sound?

You don’t need to remeasure unless you move a speaker or large furniture in the room. If auto detect keeps setting room gain to 0 it might be worth remeasuring to see if that changes. For now you can just manually increase room gain and see if you like the sound.
 

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First post in a while. i recently got an Anthem AVM-50 to replace my Outlaw 950. I am running a 7 channel Outlaw amp as primary and a McIntosh MC-240 as a music only amp. I was running the Mc off of Zone 2 on the 950, but when I switched to the AVM-50 the output is limited by the AVM. Is there a way around this via Software upgrade (Current V 1.33) or other suggestion?

Thanks!
 

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I’m eyeing off a second hand avm50v and have a couple of questions!

1. How do you set customs output resolutions? The manual makes a vague reference to some kind of disk. Need 1365x768 for a NEC plasma display
2. Does the video processor add any lag? I do a lot of console gaming.
 

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1. How do you set customs output resolutions? The manual makes a vague reference to some kind of disk. Need 1365x768 for a NEC plasma display

2. Does the video processor add any lag? I do a lot of console gaming.

1. I’ve used the program provided by Anthem called LVSE. I don’t recall if it was on the original disc but you can download it. However you probably won’t need it as 1366x768p60 is one of the predefined modes the unit supports.

2. I haven’t used mine for gaming but others have, and I don’t recall any complaints here about lag over the years. You can try the thread search.
 

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New to AVS Forum, a great resource.

Recently purchased a used Anthem D2. Not sure how old but SN139355?
Installed it but HDMI does not work. Can only see OSD if I select Component vs HDMI output.

Verified D2 output settings as 720p for my display but no signal.
HDMI cable tested and operational, display was tested with another HDMI signal as operational.
Visually verified that D2 HDMI output connector pins are not damaged or broken off.

Read previous posts so reloaded the v1.33 firmware successfully , but still missing HDMI output.
I think I have done what is necessary, any thoughts before a service episode?

Thanks in advance.
 

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^ Prior to installing the firmware you need to do a Reset Factory Defaults on the D2. If you did not do that, try the reinstall again.

The only other thing you can do prior to seeking service is to recheck the HDMI cabling. Ideally it should be a new, “Premium Certified” cable, six feet long, direct to the display without any adapters, wall plates, daisy chained cables, or other HDMI gizmos in the signal path. Such cabling need not be expensive. Make sure the plug at each end is fully inserted straight into the socket.

For more info, see my Blog post here:

HDMI “Premium Certified” Cables

—Bob
 

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^^ Also try 480p video into your display over HDMI. 480p (not 480i) is the simplest HDMI video signal.

If 480p works, you know the HDMI hardware is live. Meaning your problem at 720p is either cabling or settings.

Keep in mind when you change the video output settings of the D2 you must confirm the change before it takes effect.
—Bob
 

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Thank you Bob.

Yes, a reset to factory default settings (using front panel setup access) preceded the successful v1.33 firmware re-install.
I tested it today with video output set to 480p by HDMI and again no OSD signal was displayed.
Will pickup a new 6ft certified cable to re-test before I visit Paradigm/Anthem in Mississauga.
Thanks once more for your advice.
 

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Thank you Bob.

Yes, a reset to factory default settings (using front panel setup access) preceded the successful v1.33 firmware re-install.
I tested it today with video output set to 480p by HDMI and again no OSD signal was displayed.
Will pickup a new 6ft certified cable to re-test before I visit Paradigm/Anthem in Mississauga.
Thanks once more for your advice.
Are you getting content video, but just no OSD? Probably need service.
—Bob
 

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Are you getting content video, but just no OSD? Probably need service.
—Bob
Yes unfortunately, no video (or audio) content is displayed from the D2's HDMI out port when selecting any DVD / TV connected source or from the internal OSD.
I also took care to assign these DVD and TV source inputs correctly.
Thanks sincerely for your assistance.
 

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Use "Fixed" Volume output on the 205 and then check for Clipping when playing loud passages through the D2v that way.

The easiest way to check for Clipping is to use the built-in level meter in the D2v. To do that you must (temporarily) establish ANALOG-DSP on that Analog Input. Then start playing content and go to the Setup > Analog Input Levels menu. Select the Input and you'll see a live, vertical bar showing the input level. The top of that bar includes a Pink level and then a Red level just above it. Adjust the Analog Input Level trim for that Input until the loudest passages cause the Pink level to light up briefly, but the Red level to NEVER light up. You'll need content that runs full scale to test this. For example, I like to use the Telarc CD of Bach's Toccata & Fugue in D Minor, which includes some full scale passages both at the beginning and near the end of the track:

https://www.amazon.com/Bach-Toccata-Fugue-D-Minor/dp/B000003CT3/ref=sr_1_1?s=music&ie=UTF8&qid=1549202706&sr=1-1&keywords=telarc+bach+toccata+&+fugue+in+D+Minor

But of course you can use whatever content you like.

With the 205 connected to my D2v / 3D I found a level trim of -1.0dB worked best for RCA input (both Stereo and multi-channel) and -7.0dB worked best for XLR Stereo input. This makes sense since XLR signals are, by design +6dB hotter than RCA. Again these are trims in the Analog *INPUT* menu of the D2v -- with the 205 set to "Fixed" output.

After picking the level settings that seem to work best in your D2v, you can then switch the D2v back to ANALOG-DIRECT if you prefer. Those Input attenuations you've set will still apply. You just can't see the live level bar in Direct mode.

By the way, I suspect that the reason for the -1.0dB adjustment here is that the live level bar in the D2v is a bit conservative by design. I don't actually hear any Clipping with the attenuation at 0dB for RCA Stereo Input, for example.
--Bob

[Edited to clarify the last sentence is for RCA input.]
Bob, great post as always. Does this feature work with the D1 as well or is it D2 specific?
 

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^ The real time Analog input Level bar graphic is available in the Analog Input Level setting menu for the D1, D2, D2v, and D2v 3D. See the Manual page for that menu.
--Bob
 

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^ The real time Analog input Level bar graphic is available in the Analog Input Level setting menu for the D1, D2, D2v, and D2v 3D. See the Manual page for that menu.
--Bob

Thanks Bob!

Question for target customization....

If I change the L/R/C from 60 to 50, does that make it a brighter sound, or deeper sound? Also, is zero room gain ever a normal setting? I have a wide open large floor-plan if that makes a difference.

My center channel range is 49-20hz, mains go 45-20hz so I assume I'd use the same number in this window if I wanted to play around?


 

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^ Normal values for Room Gain are in the range 2-4dB. Larger rooms, particularly when treated for Bass would exhibit the lowest Room Gain. However a result of 0dB usually means ARC has spotted a dip in the critical frequencies (near and below the Crossover) which make it look as if the room has a negative Room Gain. Since negative Room Gain has no physical meaning ARC uses a 0 value instead. Typically you would raise that result to 1 or 2 dB and check whether problems show in the chart.

Changing Crossover frequency simply alters the range of Bass sent to the Subwoofer rather than retained in the regular speaker channel. The effect that has in the sound depends on the capabilities of your regular speaker(s) involved and the Sub itself.

With the Center rated down to only 49Hz, a 50Hz Crossover for Center is definitely too low. A 50Hz Crossover says Center is expected to produce quality audio all the way down to 25Hz!

Even if your Fronts are “full range” designs. Odds are they can not produce quality bass AT VOLUME down to 25Hz. A decent Sub will likely be better down there.

For the full story, see my Blog post here:

Choosing a Crossover Frequency

—Bob
 

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^ Normal values for Room Gain are in the range 2-4dB. Larger rooms, particularly when treated for Bass would exhibit the lowest Room Gain. However a result of 0dB usually means ARC has spotted a dip in the critical frequencies (near and below the Crossover) which make it look as if the room has a negative Room Gain. Since negative Room Gain has no physical meaning ARC uses a 0 value instead. Typically you would raise that result to 1 or 2 dB and check whether problems show in the chart.

Changing Crossover frequency simply alters the range of Bass sent to the Subwoofer rather than retained in the regular speaker channel. The effect that has in the sound depends on the capabilities of your regular speaker(s) involved and the Sub itself.

With the Center rated down to only 49Hz, a 50Hz Crossover for Center is definitely too low. A 50Hz Crossover says Center is expected to produce quality audio all the way down to 25Hz!

Even if your Fronts are “full range” designs. Odds are they can not produce quality bass AT VOLUME down to 25Hz. A decent Sub will likely be better down there.

For the full story, see my Blog post here:

Choosing a Crossover Frequency

—Bob

Hi Bob,

I read your blog but I am a bit lost.

I don't know what my charts mean. Someone suggested upping or lowering by 5-10hz to see if I liked the sound. I assumed the "60" is what ARC had calculated, I did not put that number in there. Is it not what ARC calculated? I assume the zero gain is also what ARC calculated? I assumed everything in this window is what ARC came up with, it's not?

If I go into this tab, I have to plug in numbers in all categories. I can't simply put "1" in the room gain setting without changing the default 60hz setting? Do I base the crossover numbers by looking at my chart readings somehow? Or do I simply double my fronts to 90hz and the center to 98hz. I have large front floor standing and large center channel speakers and a new SVS sub. I do not want to lose my front sound stage completely to the sub particularly on music. The sound after ARC sounded a bit thin which is why I was fiddling. Any suggestions would be great. Also, what would odd things showing up in my chart actually look like?

 

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Yes, 5hw 60nis what ARC calculated.

You can move that up or down to see if it improves. You can do front different than center too.

The zero room gain is probably wrong. Bob explained why that can be miscalculated.

Yes, you can just enter the room gain in that window. You don't have to change anything else.

After changing you tell ARC to recalculate, download to the unit and listen.

I'd fix the room gain first. Then depending on how it sounds, try adjusting the crossovers.
 

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^ Agreed.

@fmzip When I first looked at your charts I could see that your speakers are doing a fine job. When you commented that it sounded thin I had a second look and noticed there’s no “house curve” (warmth) and room gain was 0. I suggest pressing the Auto Detect button in case the field was inadvertently set to 0.

If ARC keeps it at 0, I would definitely increase it 1 dB at a time until you get a decent amount of mid-bass energy in the room (by ear). Then we can talk about making other minor tweaks.
 

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^ Agreed.

@fmzip When I first looked at your charts I could see that your speakers are doing a fine job. When you commented that it sounded thin I had a second look and noticed there’s no “house curve” (warmth) and room gain was 0. I suggest pressing the Auto Detect button in case the field was inadvertently set to 0.

If ARC keeps it at 0, I would definitely increase it 1 dB at a time until you get a decent amount of mid-bass energy in the room (by ear). Then we can talk about making other minor tweaks.

Thanks for the suggestions...

I had ARC do a redo all together, now it has a room gain of.89


It’s certainly not lacking basss. . On the subwoofer page if I set the bass to flat on movies, should it also be set to flat for music? Or should it be set to auto for music? Any other suggestion.

Also, if it sets my mains for 60hz, would setting it 55hz send less bass to the sub?
 

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On the subwoofer page if I set the bass to flat on movies, should it also be set to flat for music? Or should it be set to auto for music? Any other suggestion.



Also, if it sets my mains for 60hz, would setting it 55hz send less bass to the sub?


Go ahead and set both to flat.

Unrelated to the sub settings, but if you still find it bright increase room gain.

When you change the cutoff frequency for the mains in the ARC software it usually moves the crossover frequency in the Anthem speaker setup menu to match. (You should not touch anything in this menu or you will break the ARC solution.) Like Bob said there is probably no point in lowering the cutoff if you have a good sub. This will put more bass requirement in your mains and yes, to answer your question, it will send less to the sub. It won’t affect the LFE channel; that always goes entirely to the sub.

In my system lowering the mains cutoff actually had the opposite effect I was expecting: it made the bass more boomy instead of tighter.
 
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