[superedge88]

I will be making sawdust very soon now that the weather is warmer up here in Minnesota, so I have to solidify which horn I will be going with. I'll be making just one at first, with the plans to add more once we loft the ceiling in the living room and can place multiples in the attic. I love the lilwrecker design, and will probably end up going with it, though I don't have room in the attic for more than 4, since the mouth exits out the long side instead of the bottom (low pitch of roof dictates that I can't stack them )
Stipulations are
1. Must be able to service the woofer from the horn mouth, so that I can service the woofers without getting into the attic.
2. Must extend to at least 20hertz (LOWER PREFFERED)
3.Must be able to use an Inuke 6000DSP (so no multiple ported designs, or multiple sealed designs that require more amp power than the Inuke 6000dsp)
4. Budget is ~$2,500 (a little flexible on this number if the proposed design didn't require as many subs to be built) which includes the woofers and wood, I already have the amplifier.

I could easily place 8 lilwreckers in the attic if the horn mouth exited out the bottom, but that would require an entire refold and I have no idea how to fold or refold a horn.
I really want to maximize the amplifier I have, which using the 4 lilwreckers just isn't doing (I'm told that the inuke 6000dsp can handle 8 lilwreckers with the Alpine type S woofer.)
My house is a split level with an open floor plan on the main level that is about 30 X 50 feet, that then opens up to the basement that is another open 30 X 50 feet. The Tuba HT that I currently have hits its voltage limits quite fast with this large air space to pressurize, I love the sub, but it just isn't made to work in this large of an air space.
My plan is to create two groups of subwoofers firing from the attic in to the living room, installing each group as far apart as possible so that I can smooth room modes.
I really want to do this right, have a ton of LFE headroom, and then never have to worry about these large subwoofers in the attic again, because once they're up there they are never coming back out. You guys are the experts, so I will hear any ideas no matter how crazy. I am not an expert, but you can understand how I want to go BIG with my subwoofer solution so that I don't regret not going bigger down the road when I have no way of changing out the attic located subs.

 

[More is Better]

"No matter how crazy"...Right up my alley




I think I might have something ridiculous for you if you want to do an Infinite Baffle.





36x JBL GTO1514 $75ea $2700
1x Inuke6000dsp $350 1 inuke, check.
4x 3/4 mdf sheets $30ea $120
$3170 total plus odds and ends... A little more $ but very simple woodworking, check.


Wire each sub to 8 ohms, put 3 of those in series to get 24 ohms, run 6 sets of 3 in parallel to get 18 subs/channel at 4 ohms. 3600W total, 100W per sub will barely hit xmax. Ridiculously low distortion and no power compression.


Set it and forget it, you never have to worry about a cooked or bottomed out sub, no matter what you do to them. You can clip the amp till it power cycles and do it again, you can't hurt this many subs with that power.




Without room gain,
An IB system with 9 quad opposed 17"x17"x24" manifolds should be around:
111db at 5hz
122db at 10hz Reference level+ extension to well below 20hz, check.
131db at 20hz
137db at 40hz and up


With that size manifold, you should be able to front mount them, and replace anything from the room side after they are installed. Easy maintenance, check.

If you want to do something sick and bulletproof, this might be right up your alley.
Wiring will be a little complicated, but no big deal if you can keep the red wire and the black wire straight.


Over 100 liters of displacement.......101.5L

 

[More is Better]

winisd graph

:

 

[Mfusick]

lol @ (8) lilwreckers....

 

[superedge88]

"No matter how crazy"...Right up my alley




I think I might have something ridiculous for you if you want to do an Infinite Baffle.





36x JBL GTO1514 $75ea $2700
1x Inuke6000dsp $350 1 inuke, check.
4x 3/4 mdf sheets $30ea $120
$3170 total plus odds and ends... A little more $ but very simple woodworking, check.


Wire each sub to 8 ohms, put 3 of those in series to get 24 ohms, run 6 sets of 3 in parallel to get 18 subs/channel at 4 ohms. 3600W total, 100W per sub will barely hit xmax. Ridiculously low distortion and no power compression.


Set it and forget it, you never have to worry about a cooked or bottomed out sub, no matter what you do to them. You can clip the amp till it power cycles and do it again, you can't hurt this many subs with that power.




Without room gain,
An IB system with 9 quad opposed 17"x17"x24" manifolds should be around:
111db at 5hz
122db at 10hz Reference level+ extension to well below 20hz, check.
131db at 20hz
137db at 40hz and up


With that size manifold, you should be able to front mount them, and replace anything from the room side after they are installed. Easy maintenance, check.

If you want to do something sick and bulletproof, this might be right up your alley.
Wiring will be a little complicated, but no big deal if you can keep the red wire and the black wire straight.


Over 100 liters of displacement.......101.5L

I guess I asked for it, but 36 woofers? My wife is VERY supportive of my hobby, but even I wouldn't want to do this. I did state that I am looking for horn subwoofer options, but I do appreciate the out of the box thinking

 

[BassThatHz]

The lilwrecker horn has 8 90degree turns in it and only uses 15" cones.

How about 8 modified HzHorn's with UM-18's?
It has 6 turns and uses 18's.

8 18's sounds better for 30x50 than 8 15's does...

You could tweak it so that it would have similar performance to that of a Ghorn or Lhorn (minus the beefy LMS-18 woofer.)

 

[More is Better]

I guess I asked for it, but 36 woofers? My wife is VERY supportive of my hobby, but even I wouldn't want to do this. I did state that I am looking for horn subwoofer options, but I do appreciate the out of the box thinking

It's only 9 holes in the ceiling instead of 8 and will give you full range down to 5hz while being bulletproof and way easier to build.

 

[More is Better]

The lilwrecker horn has 8 90degree turns in it and only uses 15" cones.

How about 8 modified HzHorn's with UM-18's?
It has 6 turns and uses 18's.

8 18's sounds better for 30x50 than 8 15's does...

You could tweak it so that it would have similar performance to that of a Ghorn or Lhorn (minus the beefy LMS-18 woofer.)

What's a HZ horn sound like? Kinda like sub in free air?

 

[superedge88]

It's only 9 holes in the ceiling instead of 8 and will give you full range down to 5hz while being bulletproof and way easier to build.

Kinda worried about the back wave and it bothering the crap out of the neighbors if I did an infinite baffle. I get the fact that it would be very easy to build though, i gotta admit that it is tempting.

 

[superedge88]

The lilwrecker horn has 8 90degree turns in it and only uses 15" cones.

How about 8 modified HzHorn's with UM-18's?
It has 6 turns and uses 18's.

8 18's sounds better for 30x50 than 8 15's does...

You could tweak it so that it would have similar performance to that of a Ghorn or Lhorn (minus the beefy LMS-18 woofer.)

I'm listening, what modifications would be needed?

 

[More is Better]

I'm listening, what modifications would be needed?

...For him to finish the prototype

 

[More is Better]

You do know what you're asking for, right? Something like bleeding ears...

 

[superedge88]

You do know what you're asking for, right? Something like bleeding ears...

Volume knobs come in pretty handy...

 

[BassThatHz]

I'm listening, what modifications would be needed?

It looks like it needs MAJOR modifications, and it's a bit unusual looking.

Here is two different variants of the UM-18 HzHorn refold.

Attempt 1:

Attempt 2:

Version 2 looks odd looking, but models best (it's also fairly BIG.)

note: I make no claim to the accuracy of these numbers beyond what it is that HornResp is telling us, is best.

Now you need to mock it up in SketchUp to see what it looks like (how big, thus how many you can fit in your room; and it's woodworking complexity.)
It's hard to visualize what these HornResp numbers ACTUALLY look like without SketchUp'ing them... so... Get to work!!!

 

[BassThatHz]

...For him to finish the prototype

Not really. My prototype will sound entirely different than OP's horn, it's a vastly different driver and thus requires a vastly different horn folding.

The only similarities would be the horn mouth and driver loading, i.e. very-general layout of folds.

The size of the box and all the dimensions are totally different. More like a cousin than an identical-twin.

 

[superedge88]

It looks like it needs MAJOR modifications, and it's a bit unusual looking.

Here is two different variants of the UM-18 HzHorn refold.

Attempt 1:

Attempt 2:

Version 2 looks odd looking, but models best (it's also fairly BIG.)

note: I make no claim to the accuracy of these numbers beyond what it is that HornResp is telling us, is best.

Now you need to mock it up in SketchUp to see what it looks like (how big, thus how many you can fit in your room; and it's woodworking complexity.)
It's hard to visualize what these HornResp numbers ACTUALLY look like without SketchUp'ing them... so... Get to work!!!

I don't know the first thing about what you're telling me to do. I can build a finished design, but as far as using sketch up, and getting things mocked up... Not my Forte.

 

[BassThatHz]

The only thing prototype-ish about the HzHorn is how the driver and mouth terminate together at the end. Other than that, it's a conventional looking horn design inside the box.

 

[BassThatHz]

I don't know the first thing about what you're telling me to do. I can build a finished design, but as far as using sketch up, and getting things mocked up... Not my Forte.

I don't really have the time to do it for you. Or even teach you how. It took me 8 to 20 FULL hours of messing around in Sketchup for mine, it's not hard, but it is VERY time consuming and hair-pulling.

I simply don't have the free time, or will-power to do a 3D model for you.
Perhaps someone else who has a few days of free time and/or who is a Sketchup-master that could learn horn-knowledge can do it for you.

This is WHY nobody builds horns.
It requires both too-much knowledge and free-time / motivation to do one.

 

[superedge88]

I don't really have the time to do it for you. Or even teach you how. It took me 8 to 20 FULL hours of messing around in Sketchup for mine, it's not hard, but it is VERY time consuming and hair-pulling.

I simply don't have the free time, or will-power to do a 3D model for you.
Perhaps someone else who has a few days of free time and/or who is a Sketchup-master that could learn horn-knowledge can do it for you.

This is WHY nobody builds horns.
It requires both too-much knowledge and free-time / motivation to do one.

I wouldn't ask anyone to go through the trouble of refolding a horn for me. I would also like to avoid being the Guinea pig on a brand new untested design. I'll simply stick with the lilwrecker if there aren't any DIY horn plans out there that equal it and exit out the bottom.

 

[lilmike]

I don't really have the time to do it for you. Or even teach you how. It took me 8 to 20 FULL hours of messing around in Sketchup for mine, it's not hard, but it is VERY time consuming and hair-pulling.

I simply don't have the free time, or will-power to do a 3D model for you.
Perhaps someone else who has a few days of free time and/or who is a Sketchup-master that could learn horn-knowledge can do it for you.

This is WHY nobody builds horns.
It requires both too-much knowledge and free-time / motivation to do one.

L O L

I'm a nobody...

If I could complete a design in 8 hours, I'd be thrilled.

These things take me far longer than that.