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HT Dude some time ago asked these questions related to another build that someone asked...thought I would start off with answering these.

Things to keep in mind when deciding the Motorized Curtain Install.

1.How large of screen do I want? You can always go smaller but, once the walls in the front is up that hides the curtain, you can't go larger then the opening.

I currently have a 125" screen, but am going to have to downsize the screen. The answer to the question is as wide as possible, since having to step down, I would like to be as near 125" while achieving my masking idea. At first I was going to get a Carada Masquarade System and screen. After doing some cost/benefit analysis it looks like the screen with motorized curtains (black velvet) would basically take the place of the Carada as long as the preset options is available with curtain system. I will not have a wall to hid the curtain, this is going to be a simple motorized curtain, screen, and black velvet above and below the screen so basically the entire wall is black velvet other than the screen of course.

2.How wide is the room and will I have enough room for stacking of the curtain when it is open? I used a pleated curtain that was 150" to cover a distance of 90" plus 72" curtain stacking when the curtain is open plus an additional 12"of extra space to not see the curtain behind the wall from any angle. To explain, I needed at least 36" on each side for stacking of the curtain behind the wall. I made each wall 42" so that I would have a least 6" each side for the curtain to be from the edge when opened.

This part has me concerned. My room width is 140inches. I am thinking that velvet curtains with no backing (I do not see why I need backing since that will only make curtains thicker and require more stacking. I have read that each side stacked is roughly 25% of curtain width. EX: The screen I was looking to go with is a 104" screen that is roughly 100" wide. Which leaves me approximately 20" on each side for stacking. This seems too little, no? Plus, the curtain rod probably will be a little from each wall, So I probably only have 18" give or take on each side for stacking.
Another screen option is a 92.5" wide screen. this will give roughly 21.75 of stacking room. Again, I am thinking this is risky. Honestly, I did not follow the above explanation of "150" to cover a distance of 90" plus 72" curtain stacking when the curtain is open plus an additional 12"of extra space to not see the curtain behind the wall from any angle". I understand you want a curtain that is wider than you need so you have it ruffle, and not be tight for better looks. Anyway, if I use the 25% rule. If I go with a 150" curtain, it is 75 inches on each side that has to be stacked. Thus, stacking would be 18.75" per side? Any help with this would be appreciated. However, I am thinking I will have to do the curtain before selecting the screen. But going from a 125" 2.35:1 screen to a less than 90" 2.35:1 screen would be a shock
Also, I probably need an even wider curtain 160ish for ruffle effect, which further increased stacking required

3. Make the stage deep enough so that there will be room for your Curtain to close and have the Center Channel speaker and subs in the front of the curtain if you want them below the screen.

Not doing a stage...just curtains and velvet everwhere. However, is there a possibility of too much black velvet? Black hole anyone? I am thinking it would be excellent for the emersion, but just wondering if there is too much black out. My room is a cave as it is now.

4.Buy the longer curtain rod and cut it to fit the length of your opening with the curtain stacking. The Makita rods come in 9 feet and 18 feet sizes. The 9 foot for me wouldn't have been enough for the opening and stacking of the curtain when it was open.

I like the idea of BTX motorized system doing the 6"/second open and close where as Makita does ft/second, but either is probably good. Not sure yet if Makita has the presets yet. Since I want to use this as a masking system. I will use this with a 2.35:1 screen, and I use the Panny projector that adjusts 16:9 and 2.35:1. So for anything less than 2.35:1 in width, the curtains will be my velvet edges. Basically making a CIH screen with curtains. Any concerns you guys think that I may not have considered? Also, any other motorized companies you guys can suggest that you have XP with that has presets for different aspect ratios programmable via rf?

5. Be sure that you have the electrical outlet for the curtain motor.

No problem.

6. Be sure that you can run the wire from the wall switch to the motor. Unfinished walls are the easiest way to do this.

[If i understand this, I want to use my Harmony remote with RF signal to control this, so I don't think I need it tied into a switch, other than probably either a remote provided by the motorized curtain rod company, or a switch on the unit itself...

7.Use fringe on the bottom of the curtain so that the electrical wires and speaker wires from the Subs and center speakers will flow under the curtain without preventing it from opening.Many fabric stores carry 4" to 6" Gold fringe.

The curtain length does not need to drag the floor as I am thinking, since I will have velvet material running the entire length of the wall below the screen. So curtains opening and closing won't be catching on wires...if I do it right:)

8. It may be easiest to install the curtain and operate it before building your false walls. This would help to know exactly how much wall is needed to hide the curtain.

No false walls here, but to the point of knowing how much stacking is needed seems relevant to my situation/concern that curtain wont' stack enough to cover an as wide 2.35:1 screen as I can get.

9. Plan on spending around $800 to $1000 dollars on the project.


10. Take your time in planning and installing it to prevent costly mistakes.

That is why I am here, since you guys have helped in the past. Thx in advance:)
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