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I guess what I'm getting at, is can you just get a 2.35 to 1 ratio screen, and when your movie is that ratio, just blow up the image so the portion with information matches that ratio?


I currently have a 16:9 setup, but last week I was blowing up the image on some 2.35 movies to see how it would look. I didn't see the "black bars" being reflected off of anything, really it just looked like a huge 2.35 to 1 image.


I know this isn't the correct way to do CH, but is there any reason this would be a bad idea? Especially for someone who doesn't want to drop the coin on a lens just yet. Perhaps I could just get the screen, and do this until I can afford the lens someday?


Any of you do this?
 

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People do what your suggesting all the time.


Also you should take a peek at this thread
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1022306

These folks are discussing on how to do 2:35 without a lens, wether with a scaler or if you have certain AR controls built in to your projector. Interesting stuff, some are putting a 2:35 image on a 2:35 screen as you suggest and then shrinking down the 16:9 image to fit within the 2:35 screens' height.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by jayrader /forum/post/14319000


I guess what I'm getting at, is can you just get a 2.35 to 1 ratio screen, and when your movie is that ratio, just blow up the image so the portion with information matches that ratio?


I currently have a 16:9 setup, but last week I was blowing up the image on some 2.35 movies to see how it would look. I didn't see the "black bars" being reflected off of anything, really it just looked like a huge 2.35 to 1 image.


I know this isn't the correct way to do CH, but is there any reason this would be a bad idea? Especially for someone who doesn't want to drop the coin on a lens just yet. Perhaps I could just get the screen, and do this until I can afford the lens someday?


Any of you do this?

Yup...works great as long as your projector has the zoom range and lens shift to get the pic where you need it.
 

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I rather suspect that the answer to your question is HIGHLY dependent on several items:


PJ quality

Screen quality


and... most of all the following issue: "NEW screen size"


For example, I'd wager that for almost EVERYONE in the forum here, that if you're in the process of taking what you had in the first place, ie a 16:9 ratio screen and you're going to change to CIH..... that the following holds true:


If you merely change screens from 16:9 to 2.35 and retain the area of the full 16:9 image, but shorten height, and increase the width of the screen to maintain that area, then you are probably going to be better off just zooming.


But, if you use this opportunity to maintain the existing height of your 16:9 set up, you're going to be taking your initial area of a 2.35 image from the old screen, and multiplying by 1.75 to get a new surface area of the new screen. In that case, you'd probably have to have a VERY good pj and screen to not miss the extra light output inherent with more traditional scale/lens set up, and not prefer the CA and distortion inherent in the less expensive traditional CIH set ups.


I'm quite sure each pj/screen/room has a user-taste defined point where the zoom loses enough brightness and the user would prefer the compromises of scalar/lens to get it back... but you can bet your last AV dollar that everyone might have a different break-point on where that occures.


The best advice I got in PMs on this subject was to bite the bullet, and go set up a cheap screen to experiment and see where that breakpoint is for me. Though I lack the experience of quite a few members, it does make sense to "play" with the zoom first, and see at least from you intended seat position when the pixels start to bother you, and the brightness starts to fail your taste.
 

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The key to the success of the zooming method is to provide for masking off the top and bottom of the 2.35 screen so as to absorb the grey bars of the letterboxed 2.35 image. If you use wide black velvet top and bottom masks (as well as side masking of course) then you will get a superbly impactive 2.35 scope picture which will satisfy any audience. The best solution is motorized 3 or 4-way masking panels which you can DIY.
 
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