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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just finished my htpc with the HT200B Kanam case and I put in the Accent remote kit. It works fine for turning on the pc but I don't think it is working right. I installed the irrassistant software and burst driver. Even after rereading the directions I can't seem to get it to recognize any button pushes.

I installed a AMD 2500 XP with a Asus motherboard. Have read elsewhere where people have used girder but I haven't tried that yet. Don't want to do any soldering.

Any advice would be great.
 

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jgibo1,


I'm having the exact same problem. I installed the kit into the case and the only button that works is the power on/off button. I installed girder as well, but was a bit overwhelmed with it and never put enough energy behind it.


If you get any good recommendations, please keep me in the loop as I am about to return it for the Remote Wonder II.


Marc
 

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I'm in the saem boat. All of the software I have found was way to complicated and way to buggy. Additionally, the Remote is not compatible with home video learning remotes because it uses a different type of IR format.


Frustrating...
 

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I am also looking into building an HTPC withing the next 30 days. Still anguishing over all the wealth of information here! Anyways the Kanam HT200B is also the case I had picked out. So I would be very interested in what is said here and was wondering if that $35 remote option was worth it. Personally I would probably still consider it because I planned on using a better remote or possibly a PDA (still reading up on the PDA route) to tie it all together and for $35 option to just be able to "capture" the IR signal to have the ability to turn on the box seems worth it to just have the chip/connector that does this and pitch the remote. UNLESS someone knows a cheaper option to do this! Anyone?



On another note I was looking to put in the Abit IC7-Max3. Anyone using that board in the Kanham?


Anything else I should know about the Kanham case before I buy from your personal experience would be greatly appreciated. Especially when it comes to form & fit! Like I was considering getting 60MM to 80MM converters for the back 60MM exhaust just because there are no real silent 60MM fans that I can find but not sure both adapters would fit on the Kanham HT200B.


One last thing on the Kanham HT200B. Can I use both external bays and still have room for 3 hard drives in this puppy?


Once I start building here in the next month I will share my experiences too. Appreciate any help in NOT making mistakes that could have been avoided. I seem to do that alot in PC's! ;-)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yes the case works very well. you can use both 5.25 bays and it has room for 3 hard drives. On a side not I bought a 160 gb Seagate SATA drive. I had ordered a floppy drive and glad i did. The only way to install the drivers was to use a floppy. Even though the case doesn't have a slot for a floppy i am glad i bought the sata drive.

On another side note. The ASUS motherboard i bought worked great for this case. I bought a second com port connector since it only had one external. The second one is tied up inside the case and connected to the remote ir. now only have the vfd and the firewire cable coming out the back.
 

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jgibo1,


Thanks for the follow-up! Yes I heard that about installing windows with only SATA drives that you will require a boot floppy but I got to believe that a bootable CD would work and then put in your windows CD after you booted of the CD. However, this is also why I was planning on using one of these babies in one of the external slots: directron/fa402a.html 7-IN-1 Drive. I was also interested in the number of drives due to the fact that I would like to use the RAID on 2 hard drives and then Windows and APPS on a third. What did you end up doing for the power supply and those 60MM exhaust ports in back? I am concerned of course about noise so very curious on this.
 

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I was able to get the Accent IR to work just fine after a while of playing with it. I am using Girder along with WinLirc to capture the buttons. It was a pain but it works fine now. I did however just order a USBUIRT to replace the IR because I wanted to be able to control my A/V equipment from my PPC which I can do with the UIRT.


I have an ASUS A7N8X installed with 2 SATA drives, and you are correct as long as you have a bootable Windows CD and the SATA controller drivers you are all set, no need for a separate boot disk.


I was only able to get 2 Hard drives, 1 DVD-+RW and a DVD-Rom into the case, so good luck if you try more. Noise didn't seem to be a problem, everything is nice and quiet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I bought a 500 watt power supply at Fry's. i tried have the two fans turned on and turned off. Since i have a HS10 the noise level with my stereo off seems to be about the same. I am currently running without the two plugged in. My other issue since putting in my pc in the theater is that i have to turn my projector on first otherwise it trips the breaker:( (the hs10 seems like it does a power burst when first turned on. So i can't leave my pc in standby. so this weekend i will probably add a dedicated 15 or 20 amp line.
 

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cwolcott - The Kanham HT200B has mounting for 2 - 3 1/2 drives plus an internal 5 1/4 which should handle the 3rd drive with the appropriate mounting brackets. I have found in my other PC's it's better to run Windows off of a non-RAID environment and of course RAID requires at least two drives so that was my interest in the 3-drive setup in the Kanham. Of course if things all go well I will be looking at a server down the road and probably can then remove the drives and move them to the server BUT one thing at a time first. I still need to crawl in the HTPC arena before I get toooooo far ahead of myself. I have built PC's for people for 10 years now but this is my first foray into the HTPC arena. Love to tinker so this should be fun! Besides with single digit temps here in Michigan what else is there to do? ;-)
 

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I've been banging my head for quite a while trying to get the Accent IR remote to work besides turning on/off my pc.


The first solution I tried was using winlirc. first install the winlirc app. Run winlirc (make sure that girder is not loaded) then, follow the instructions to capture button codes. After this is done, download and install the winlirc to girder plugin and set it up on girder. Now you can assign commands to girder. Winlirc captures the signal then, sends it to girder.


At first this was an ok solution, but I sometimes get very slow response time, and lose control completely. Somtimes it works acceptably.


Anyway... got sick of that... so I tried the mod approach.


Open the serial plug, now.. solder together a wire or something to connect pin2(red wire 2nd pin first row) to pin6(first pin on 2nd row).


Put the plug back together and plug it back into the serial port. Download and install the IGOR serial plugin for Girder.


WOW! lightning fast response!!! I can do almost anything now with the remote. It can capture all button commands. It has very fast repeat time (winlirc does not have button repeat). Had to add 100ms antirepeat to slow it down. So far, I have not had any lost codes. Using my remote from about 3ft to 6ft.


So... the serial mod + Igor plugin is worth it!!! I suggest everyone with the kanam remote to do that and get your money's worth from the remote. Dont worry about screwing up the remote. It would still work with IR assistant and the burst driver if thats what your into ;) IR assistant gets the signal from Pin1, 2 and 4 so pin 6 doesnt really matter. The IGOR plug gets its signal from Pin 1, 4, 6 I think..


Anyway good luck! and may your Accent Remote Kit be of great use! Love that power on button!
 

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I've followed the manual to install the Kanam ir kit. The power button won't turn on the pc through the ir board, and the Accent remote won't turn on the pc either. I've tried reversing the leads, but no luck. Should I replace the ir board? Has anyone had a Kanam ir kit show no signs of life at all? TIA
 

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Quote:
Originally posted by reiger
I've followed the manual to install the Kanam ir kit. The power button won't turn on the pc through the ir board, and the Accent remote won't turn on the pc either. I've tried reversing the leads, but no luck. Should I replace the ir board? Has anyone had a Kanam ir kit show no signs of life at all? TIA
Hi Tia,


yeah I think this happened to me too, but it's not the fault of the IR board. Check your motherboard pins for the power on switch. Apparently mine had 2 panel sets I dont know why but when I plugged the power connector to the other panel set i was able to turn on the PC.


Try checking all your connections. There should be three connectors to the IR board. Case switch to IRboard, IRboard to motherboard, IRboard to PSU adaptor. There is another one which just goes to the Serial port.


If you have the right connection, the case power switch should turn on the PC, since the power switch is routed through the IRboard. If this works then the IR remote should be able to power on the PC regardless of software, because this is a hardware power on. If this doesnt work, check your batteries in the remote.
 

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My motherboard has only the one pair of power switch pins. Out of curiosity, what motherboard do you have? Do you mean the reset switch maybe? My setup is wired as you describe, but it still appears dead. The batteries are good in the remote. I swiped them from a working remote to be sure.


I checked the connection to the pins going into the serial cable. The white wire goes to pin 4, red to pin 2 and black to pin 1. Does that match your serial plug?

TIA (Thanks In Advance), Reiger
 

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can you power on your computer with the powerswitch on the case?
 

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Initially i too had problem with the remote that Kanam provides. After many searches in the girder, managed to get it to work. Hae built two units with the remote from kanam. Just to do a bit of modification on the serial connector. Open it up and use a short wire to short pin 2 and 6. Use Igor plugin for girder.
 

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I'm setting up the Accent remote at the moment. It certainly works, however I'm having a few problems (trying the Igor/girder route at the moment). Once it is up and running it is perfect, but I can't get it to auto-load on startup in a way that works. I don't know if the problem is with Igor or girder; I don't really see how the IR module can be to blame.


I don't know yet whether I'll settle on this remote. I'm drowning in the things as every component seems to come bundled with one.


Tim
 

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jpadua - the case power switch works fine when the ir board is not inline. when I hook up the ir board, the case switch doesn't work, and the accent remote won't power on the pc either. I've seen no signs of life from the remote or ir board.


ciputra - I'll give that a try. Thanks.
 

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hmm that is odd, if you have it all wired correctly you should not have a problem. It's possible you may have gotten a defective unit. I did not have a problem with the installation at all. I just plugged all the wires like the manual says, even without doing the IGOR modification to the serial plug and it worked without a hitch.
 
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