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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So...i messed up my measurements. I'm building a TV riser to put my TV on top of and my huge center speaker underneath of. How much structural integrity/strength/support/whatever would i lose (if any) by going from TV riser A to TV riser B? The TV + stand weighs 76.5 lbs.


A:




B:




Sorry for the weird view, I havent built them yet and I was just trying to see what it would look like (I flipped the images).


THANKS!
 

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I don't think there'd be much of a difference in the vertical load those two could accept.


What I would worry about with either of them is the side to side stability. You're going to want some sort of bracing to triangulate the legs and top so the legs won't just fold under when hit with any kind of side load.


You could do a right triangle across the backs of the corners, square stips along where the leg meets the top, or enclose the back all together (not recommended if you have a rear ported center).
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks jaball. I dont mind spending another $10 if A is really more stable, makes no difference to me though.


I am securing it with 4 large L-brackets (4 screws each). Then probably 4 2" screws going down vertically and maybe even adhesive going along the feet.


If i want the new, revised stand to look like TV riser A, i will have to make it like this:
  • stands 22" apart (so there is some wiggle room)
  • factor in the extra 3/4" for each board width so thats 1.5" more
  • and i guess have about 2" going past each foot on each side=4" more


so about 27.5-28" total for the top, where the feet will be about 22" apart and the TV stand will probably be about 22" wide as well.


The legs must be about 22" apart since the width of the center speaker is 21.3" (gives some wiggle room, i might even go 23" apart). The tv stand is completely flat and 21.5" long, and since the speaker must be WITHIN the stands, the tv stand and the speaker stands wont completely overlap. The center is 11.1" deep and the tv stand is 12.1" deep, but i made it 14" deep so it wouldnt be completely flush with the edge and have about 1" clearance on either side.


So i guess i could revise it like i said above and add a horizontal brace or keep it as is and add a horizontal brace.


I think im just gonna go ahead and get some new wood to make it like TV riser A and add in a horizontal brace and maybe a couple lips along with the L-bracket, glue, and screws and call it a day.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
So I built it and it fits!


I tried taking your advice as much as I could.


I used TV riser B so I wouldn't have to buy more wood, glued the pieces together, screwed three #10 2" screws down vertically on each side, used 4 L-brackets about an 1-1/2" in with 4 #8 3/4" screws in each one. Then, there was a 2-2-1/2" piece that was as long as the entire thing, so I glued it to the back and screwed it in with 6 #10 2" screws. This piece was screwed into the feet and into the top board, and acted as a skirt/brace/lip. The glue was liquid nails.


The damn thing is solid and fits almost perfectly!


Now I just need to figure out how to cover it with a black fabric and figure out where to buy that fabric!
 

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jball is right. You REALLY want corner bracing or it may fall like a house of cards given any lateral load, like when you're centering the TV. Steel angle brackets will help, but how are you going to attach them? Particleboard, which it looks like you're using, doesn't hold screws very well.


You say the shelf will be 14" deep. How deep is your speaker? The reason I ask is because I think it would be best to put a 22"-long wood (not particleboard) 1 X 3 (5/8" X 2 1/2" actual) as a brace between the legs toward the back (but as close to center as practical, obviously leaving enough space in front of it for the speaker). This does three things: it will considerably stiffen the shelf vertically so it won't sag, if the ends are cut square it will brace the corners making them much sturdier, and gives screw threads better material to bite into. Glue all the joints and put screws thru the particle board into the wood from top and sides, and long screws thru the top vertically into the legs front and back. Use good glue, drill, and countersink if possible, proper-sized pilot holes. Since the joint between the top and legs is under compression, those screws into particleboard should be OK with the addition of the brace. For those, I'd suggest carefully threading the screws in, then remove them, put a couple drops of wood glue in the holes, then replace the screws - that may make those screws much stronger (but you'll probably never get them out again, either). If you do all this, you can probably dispense with the L brackets, which would look kind of crappy and probably not attach well, anyway.


Good luck!


[edit] Well, I see that you went ahead and finished up during my long-winded reply. Sounds like it'll work as built.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rasterfarian /forum/post/20847880


jball is right. You REALLY want corner bracing or it may fall like a house of cards given any lateral load, like when you're centering the TV. Steel angle brackets will help, but how are you going to attach them? Particleboard, which it looks like you're using, doesn't hold screws very well.


You say the shelf will be 14" deep. How deep is your speaker? The reason I ask is because I think it would be best to put a 22"-long wood (not particleboard) 1 X 3 (5/8" X 2 1/2" actual) as a brace between the legs toward the back (but as close to center as practical, obviously leaving enough space in front of it for the speaker). This does three things: it will considerably stiffen the shelf vertically so it won't sag, if the ends are cut square it will brace the corners making them much sturdier, and gives screw threads better material to bite into. Glue all the joints and put screws thru the particle board into the wood from top and sides, and long screws thru the top vertically into the legs front and back. Use good glue, drill, and countersink if possible, proper-sized pilot holes. Since the joint between the top and legs is under compression, those screws into particleboard should be OK with the addition of the brace. For those, I'd suggest carefully threading the screws in, then remove them, put a couple drops of wood glue in the holes, then replace the screws - that may make those screws much stronger (but you'll probably never get them out again, either). If you do all this, you can probably dispense with the L brackets, which would look kind of crappy and probably not attach well, anyway.


Good luck!


[edit] Well, I see that you went ahead and finished up during my long-winded reply. Sounds like it'll work as built.

Rasterfarian, your advice is not lost! You know how all this upgrade business goes with speakers/subwoofers...I had a great time building it, and now that i know how easy it is and when i get some more cash, i'm gonna revisit it and do it that way (which many people have recommended similar things to).



"upgradeitis"



As long as the rear port is open and the speaker has room its ok, right? Theres very little clearance on either side (probably like .25" all around) on the front, but speakers dont get hot/need room or anything as long as the face is completely open and exposed, right?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rasterfarian /forum/post/20848221


Looks good and should be fine. That brace along the back makes a surprisingly big difference in sturdiness.

Score! I remember the guy at HD said I could use it like that and you guys kept talking about doing something like that so I forced my brother in law to do it (he was the one with the drill haha). Glad it was a good idea!
 
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