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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am about to take an old "oak" finish set of speakers to black. Does anyone have any do's/don'ts from experience? The paint guy at Lowes told me to go with Kilz primer 1st, then flat black water based paint, and use a 4 inch foam roller. Does this ring true?
 

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marked. speakers at least mine are not made of dry wall. so are your speakers real wood or are they vinyl veenered. that makes a difference.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
They are MDF Board with a wood type veneer over them. The front and backs are a vinyl typ material.
 

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"Assuming" that you are removing the drivers and most likely the binding posts anyway..... I would take the speaker boxes to a nearby auto body shop to be painted.


They have top flight spray and drying equipment. You will end up with a much nicer finish than you will ever get with any Kilz and foam roller.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by quadriverfalls
"Assuming" that you are removing the drivers and most likely the binding posts anyway..... I would take the speaker boxes to a nearby auto body shop to be painted.


They have top flight spray and drying equipment. You will end up with a much nicer finish than you will ever get with any Kilz and foam roller.
Good idea!
 

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If you do it yourself, I have found Bin primer much better than Kilz. Both available at lowes. Covers with one coat easily.

Bin is a shelac (sp?)
 

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When I built a sealed enclosure for my DIY 15 inch sub, I had my local Line-X dealer spray bedliner on my enclosure. Its a nice flat black color that blends with my other components. May not be the best idea for a set of mains but it looks nice for a sub thats tucked away in the corner. Good luck on your project.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by df4801
If you do it yourself, I have found Bin primer much better than Kilz. Both available at lowes. Covers with one coat easily.

Bin is a shelac (sp?)
The biggest problem with any DIY painting project like this is the drying process. Even if you use the absolute highest quality paints available (which are automotive and some industrial paints by the way), and maybe even have decent spray equipment, you will not have a "clean" enviroment for them to dry without "collecting" bits of airborne particles, dust, dirt, hair, pet dander etc. before they totally dry.


A decent, professional "spray booth" will have special air filtration processes to remove all of that particulate as well as an "oven" process to speed up the drying time. This also helps prevent any remaing airborne "stuff" from clinging to the wet paint.


The combination of the high quality paint itself, the special spray equipment and the baking process, combine to make for a much harder paint finish than can be obtained DIY at home as well. This will most likely add YEARS to the life of the finish and be a bit more resistant to indoor humidity and temperature fluctuations.
 
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