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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I'm going to do a bunch. I am going to cover the whole wall behind the screen (that is what you are supposed to do from what I've read?). So DIY would be cheaper in that case.
 

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Another thought...the panels you linked to are 1" thick. The vast majority of acoustic panels are minimum 2" of material, and usually incorporate an air gap between the wall and the acoustic material for broader frequency absorption.
 

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Yea you can do much better for cheaper.

http://www.atsacoustics.com/item--Ro...f-6--1006.html


My cost per panels was ~$18 each. That's total:wood, staples, glue, nails, fabric etc. Takes should only a weekend to build a dozen or so.


I've done my room and my buddies using this. It slightly outperforms OC703, but basically the same only not rigid. This is what ATS puts in their completed panels.


The stuff at Sams has Poly batting which isn't used that I know of professionally for absorption. They also don't have coeffecients posted. In other words you have no idea what your really buying or how it will perform.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roshy /forum/post/20803355


I'm going to do a bunch. I am going to cover the whole wall behind the screen (that is what you are supposed to do from what I've read?). So DIY would be cheaper in that case.

This is kinda of a debate, some treat the front wall some don't. I've tried it and didn't notice much difference. Treating first reflections are what will really make a difference. The clarity of your system will really give you tingles. Cheapest and most effective upgrade I've ever made. IMO first refelctions are far more important and should be done first and the front wall last as it's effect (if any) will be minor in comparison..


Here's a copy and paste from ATS to explain why it works.


if there is a primary source of sound in the room, such as speakers at one place in the room, it's a good idea to place panels at first reflection points. These are places where the sound can come from the source, bounce once, and reach the listener. For example, on the side walls of a listening room approximately midway between the listener and the speakers. This is because sound that reaches the listener after traveling an indirect path arrives just a little later than sound that came directly. This means your brain has to sort out multiple copies of the same sound, making things sound less clear and making speech more difficult to understand. Adding panels at the first reflection points reduces the late-arriving sound so your brain can focus on one clear copy of the sound.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
So would that pretty much be 5 total for a basic first bounce removal? Two for the from left and right, two for rear left and right and one on the ceiling? I've been trying to find a good DIY for a basic guide, but my search skills must suck.
 

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Not necessarily - unless you were just treating the first reflection points for one seat. If you have multiple seats, the first reflection points will likely require more panels.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brad Horstkotte /forum/post/0


Not necessarily - unless you were just treating the first reflection points for one seat. If you have multiple seats, the first reflection points will likely require more panels.

Roshy -Exactly what Brad says;

do the mirror trick for seating, I'd guess if 2 rows of seats, 3 or 4 person/row, you'd have (4) 2'x4' panels per side.

Look at my sig DIY thread, localhost posted his RFZ panels, easier than my method

(mine were overkill to be young kid proof)


Also, after side walls consider your ceiling reflection points, most don't treat ceilings, depends on your speaker patterns and frankly how OCD you are to dial in your acoustics.


Above all, have fun building, take Picts, and if possible some before/after measurements.
 

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BIG, I met with the builder today and it looks like I won't be able to get further than 3.5' from the side walls of my false wall with L/R fronts. Linacoustic lining the walls would help, no?


As a side note, I'm using 3' spacing as a guide between L/C/R per the Dolby website:

http://www.dolby.com/consumer/setup/...ide/index.html


I guess I could put them at 3 1/2' by spacing them 2 1/2' apart. I assume the 3 1/2' acoustics issue is more of a hard line than the dolby recommended spacing ?
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC /forum/post/20804935


Doing the whole wall behind the screen made a big difference at my place. Also if this is a behind a false wall you don't need the fabric and frames, Just tack up some Linacoustic. Some guys use two layers.

what is the reason (or issue one is trying to solve) for covering an entire boundary with (thin) absorptive material which?
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roshy /forum/post/20803796


So would that pretty much be 5 total for a basic first bounce removal? Two for the from left and right, two for rear left and right and one on the ceiling? I've been trying to find a good DIY for a basic guide, but my search skills must suck.

I sit 15' back from my screen and and to treat just the front three speakers for a row of four (although even with two seats I'd still need about as many panels) you'll need roughly 11-12 2'x4' panels. ceiling and back wall included. As others said use the mirror.
 

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At a presentation Dennis Erskine pointed out much bigger gains by treating the side and back walls than the front wall. I treated my front wall more because it's so easy to do (hidden behind false wall) but next time will pay more attention elsewhere.
 

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15'? Is that the first row? How big is your screen?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I can't seem to find a thread I stumbled upon before with DIY panels with a basic wooden frame, some filler, and covered in fabric. I can only find the fancier ones that mtbdudex makes. If someone knows what I'm talking about and has it bookmarked, it would be appreciated!
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by manthatsnice /forum/post/20806878


15'? Is that the first row? How big is your screen?

135" seymour XD screen. My room is 18x14 so I only have one row. I could squeeze two but we wouldn't have room for rock band and the Kinect and all the stuff the kids like, besides I wouldn't want to sit any closer.
 
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