Are these parameters suitable for a music 25Hz tapped?

As lilmike has said in the past:


"This is the do it yourself forum, not the do it for me forum".


Plug the numbers into hornresp and play with the sliders. It is easier than you think to figure out if something will work in a tapped or front loaded bass horn....


The tutorials are there, use them.


JSS



IDK if this is better or worse:

as with all things, learn from the masters. figure out what they are doing and why. once that is achieved you will be in a position to take the next step. otherwise, you are just lost in the same space that they were lost in.


go to danley or even bfm. model their work. once you can and understand why, you will be ready for your green belt. everybody thinks they are a black belt just because they learned something that was new to them. that is learning, but only to the self. in order to be a black belt, you have to either have a total command of the current learning or have something new.


an example of something new is how danley puts two horns together in the cinemonster. each horn alone would be good enough, but when you couple two tapped horns you get a litte bit more than the sum of the parts, which is what happens with the th221.


unfortunately, there is very little room for "pushing the envelope" in subwoofers. the science seems to be fairly well worked out and the driver and amplifier parameters are what they are. the more that it all gets figured out, the less "exciting" diy will be as the surprises will be very small.


klippel and co are working much harder and with more resources to identify the leading 'edge' of subs. almost all the pro audio subs follow the same model because the science is worked out.


if you think that you can find something that they have all missed, that would be awesome, but is also extremely unlikely. most of your "creative ideas" have been tried long ago. this is not meant to discourage you, but to humble you by sharing that we have all gone down the same path. welcome to the realm of rigorous science.


my advice is that if you really want to beat a master, select one of his best appications. develope and understanding of it on all dimensions. then beat it if you can.

I only had that shape when i was trying giant (12 cubic feet) 20Hz boxes for my Hyundai Accent hatchback 4 years ago... WinISDs autocalc actually looks damn good and is tuned to 28Hz!

25Hz is closer to that plot, more airspace bigger peak at tuning due to STRONGEST NON NEO MOTOR IN THE WORLD! lol

20Hz

24Hz and 18Hz or so, dont really know what I'm doing

if you want stupid loud, have a look at the danley th221 aka cinemonster.


it is 5 feet tall, 5 feet long and 2 feet wide. BUT, it is really two horns sandwiched together.


so you could do 2.5 feet tall, 2 feet wide and five feet long per horn. two such horns should fit in a van.


after eyeballing the cab and the frequency response, this is roughly what i'd guess is going on in 1/2 the cab:




two of them will produce an even flatter frequency response and 6 db higher spl (2 x driver and 2x amp).


max spl should be "off the charts" in a van. i'm not even sure how to put a number on it, but i would not be in the cab during spl testing.


the numbers are just a "first draft" not meant to be perfect, but they should provide the basic idea that you are looking for.

something obviousely not right, I think it has Xmax set to 5mm when it's 16mm IIRC but heres 11 watts, clips at 20Hz. 12 watts clips the spike at 32Hz... or surpasses Xmex/PE or whatever is going on here.