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Are these parameters suitable for a music 25Hz tapped?

1310 Views 25 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  kryptonitewhite
Small listening room but needs to be extremely LOUD and relatively flat to 25Hz. Doesn't need to be efficient but would be cool if it was. Plenty of room to work with, few feet wide, few feet tall, few feet deep.

Nom Imp 4 8

SPL 1W/1M 89.1 88.5

Lem mH 4.508 5.44

Revc 3.82 7.375

Sd M² 0.1426 0.1426

BL TM 39.32 42.4935 (no mistakes there)

Vas Liters 77.76 120.98

Mms grams 941.2 785.3

Fs Hz 31.7 27.8

Qms 10.443 7.292

Qes 0.4625 0.559

Qts 0.443 0.519
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1 - 20 of 26 Posts
well pee on me, not one bite, so what the hey....
As lilmike has said in the past:

"This is the do it yourself forum, not the do it for me forum".

Plug the numbers into hornresp and play with the sliders. It is easier than you think to figure out if something will work in a tapped or front loaded bass horn....

The tutorials are there, use them.

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I can't figure out hornresp, so I leave it alone. Really, I won't be building anythig anytime soon.. was hoping to spark inspiration for someone else to at least consider it. All of the "horn crazy" thats been going on here, I don't understand why the most powerful non-neo subwoofer motor hasnt at least been mentioned. The $$$ people dump here, why not buy a couple of the motors, send them to PSI to be built as 12's, and watch the baddest horns come alive as of yet?

I have nothing to gain going from 4 18's to one 18 in home or vehicle, but I bet if someone here had a pair of 12's made out of them some things may open up for others.
21 cubic feet
IDK if this is better or worse:

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as with all things, learn from the masters. figure out what they are doing and why. once that is achieved you will be in a position to take the next step. otherwise, you are just lost in the same space that they were lost in.

go to danley or even bfm. model their work. once you can and understand why, you will be ready for your green belt. everybody thinks they are a black belt just because they learned something that was new to them. that is learning, but only to the self. in order to be a black belt, you have to either have a total command of the current learning or have something new.

an example of something new is how danley puts two horns together in the cinemonster. each horn alone would be good enough, but when you couple two tapped horns you get a litte bit more than the sum of the parts, which is what happens with the th221.

unfortunately, there is very little room for "pushing the envelope" in subwoofers. the science seems to be fairly well worked out and the driver and amplifier parameters are what they are. the more that it all gets figured out, the less "exciting" diy will be as the surprises will be very small.

klippel and co are working much harder and with more resources to identify the leading 'edge' of subs. almost all the pro audio subs follow the same model because the science is worked out.

if you think that you can find something that they have all missed, that would be awesome, but is also extremely unlikely. most of your "creative ideas" have been tried long ago. this is not meant to discourage you, but to humble you by sharing that we have all gone down the same path. welcome to the realm of rigorous science.

my advice is that if you really want to beat a master, select one of his best appications. develope and understanding of it on all dimensions. then beat it if you can.
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"IDK if this is better or worse"

less extension and more variation in frequency response. most would call that worse.

and kw, don't take my comments the wrong way...if you really want to learn all this, i'll help how i can...
I havent decided yet how far to go with this, I'm still 1/2 assing seeing if I could get the hang of it or not. I saw what you see, it has a sharper knee but last night when I was following the tutorial I felt maybe something was off because mine was more subtle, so at first tonight the sharper knee seemed easier to compare to the example. My second though was it actually looks very similar to all the vented plots I used to do with it 3-4 years ago. I know the other was nice and flat but was more around 92dB where this is more around 95dB... so if there are things I can do to lower the peaks, raise the middle, I can lower the knee and it looked much better when I lowered it to see what it looked like... but this is sort of for the van, maybe the house IDK but still 25Hz is the lowest I need it to go solidly.
I only had that shape when i was trying giant (12 cubic feet) 20Hz boxes for my Hyundai Accent hatchback 4 years ago... WinISDs autocalc actually looks damn good and is tuned to 28Hz!

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25Hz is closer to that plot, more airspace bigger peak at tuning due to STRONGEST NON NEO MOTOR IN THE WORLD! lol

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the tapped horn has more sensitivity vs. the ported even if the frequency responses look the same. have a look at max spl to see where you have excursion and power limits.

based on your history of preference for subsonics, i doubt a th horn is what you are looking for.
This is for the van, 25Hz is very low for music/mobile. But I hear what youre sayin... I'll still play crazy stuff with subsonics where the ported would be safer than tapped? I have my HP set to 20Hz 6dB/oct now and can play Bass I Love You and The Bass Will Destroy You full excursion without issue, I am tuned to 23Hz and was tuned to 25Hz. I can go all the way up to 30dB/oct with the crossover plus I have another HP on all 4 amps, IDK if thats 12 or 24dB.
Do I need to enter Xmax and power handling?
24Hz and 18Hz or so, dont really know what I'm doing

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if you want stupid loud, have a look at the danley th221 aka cinemonster.

it is 5 feet tall, 5 feet long and 2 feet wide. BUT, it is really two horns sandwiched together.

so you could do 2.5 feet tall, 2 feet wide and five feet long per horn. two such horns should fit in a van.

after eyeballing the cab and the frequency response, this is roughly what i'd guess is going on in 1/2 the cab:

two of them will produce an even flatter frequency response and 6 db higher spl (2 x driver and 2x amp).

max spl should be "off the charts" in a van. i'm not even sure how to put a number on it, but i would not be in the cab during spl testing.

the numbers are just a "first draft" not meant to be perfect, but they should provide the basic idea that you are looking for.
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something obviousely not right, I think it has Xmax set to 5mm when it's 16mm IIRC but heres 11 watts, clips at 20Hz. 12 watts clips the spike at 32Hz... or surpasses Xmex/PE or whatever is going on here.

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How bad would the van cabin affect responce, doors closed windows down? Would it act like the mouth, 1 more segment?

How much are those suckers? Those must be the ones I see them comparing with the DTS-10 now and again.
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