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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Trying to come up with a unique theater name is for the birds. That said, i chose something from my favorite childhood movie, "Dune". This is the second time I have remodeled the room. The first time was done with the thought of having a theater/pool room. The pool table never left the garage until it was time to find a new home :rolleyes:.


Old Theater - Original: 3/1/2013




I ended up selling this TV days before Seahawk/Patriot superbowl (perfect time to sell a big screen TV!) and purchased my first projector. In order to make things work in time for the Super Bowl I switch the layout around and painted the back wall white. I was finished with 45 minutes to spare. GO HAWKS!


Updated Old Theater - Room Flip: 2/1/2015




Over the past few years I have been chasing the bass monster (tactile response) but sadly I'm located in a daylight basement on a slab of concrete. After building 4 SI HT18 subs and not achieving what I was hoping to achieve I started playing around with decoupled platforms.


Platform on horse mat rubber chunks:




This change was enough to convince me that I needed to remodel the room once more. So here we are! My first build thread. I put together a layout in excel (sometimes you have to use what you know). The speaker layout isn't set in stone. Here's what I have so far (White Oaks Cinema info layout). I'll try to give credit if I remember where I gleamed/plagiarized info/ideas from. I will say that the White Oaks theater is the driving force for this build. It was documented so well that it made the project feel less daunting. That said...this will be unique in the obstacles I'll have to work around (subfloor/window/slider).

Room Information:
Theater dimensions: 18.5' x 26'
Ceilings: 8' 9"
OSB/drywall

Equipment List

Speakers
Front and Center Speakers: DIYSG 1099
Wide, Side and Back Surrounds: (6-8) Volt 10's
In Ceiling Atmos Speakers: (4) Volt 10's
Subwoofers: (8) Stereo Integrity HT-18's in sealed enclosures

AV Electronics - Home Theater
LCRWS Amps: (1) Sherbourn PA 7-350
Sub Amps: (2) Inuke 6000DSP
S2,SB & Atmos: A/V Receiver
A/V Receiver: Denon AVR-X7200WA

Sources
OPPO 203
Roku Premiere Plus
Charter Cable Box
PS3

Projector and Screen
Projector: Sony HW40ES JVC DLA-X750r
Screen: DIY Center Stage XD 2:1 144" x 73"

Seating
Chairs: (7) Fusion Escape (may be adding 2 more?)

Smart Home Equipment
Insteon Hub
Logitech Hub
Amazon Echo

Lighting
18 - 4" cans in soffit with gimbal & LED MR16 bulb
RGBW LED Strips - behind crown molding
RGBW LED Strips - Under riser edge and stairs

Rack
DIY in-wall (inspired by YW84U's incredible DIY rack)


 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Demo time. I was originally going to leave the walls as they were but the framing wasn't ideal so I decided to pull the walls also and add a layer of OSB for ease of hanging moving forward.








Came across a lovely split in my joist. We found out we had hardwood under the carpet upstairs and during the refinishing phase we had to move everything in the kitchen and living room into our back two rooms (right above this room). We had a fridge in our bedroom along with a pantry and couches all sitting over this joist area. So between the weight of that stuff and the bass checks I'm guessing this stress crack happened.

We ended up sistering the joist using PL, clamps, nails and screws.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Door, AV Rack, and another Door

Solid core door installed. Door next to my AV rack location was too big so I had to remove it. Luckily I had a pre-hung door in the garage (came with the house) that wasn't being used and was a bit narrower!





 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Subfloor, Framing Windows, Slider

The subfloor is 2x4 sleepers sitting on 3/4" rubber squares. I attached 3/4" T&G OSB to the sleepers using subfloor glue and 2" ring shank nails. The rubber is spaced every 16" around the perimeter and under the riser, 18" under the front row and stage. Everything else is 24" spacing. This will hopefully allow the floor to float a little more than the carpet on concrete :p.

My plan for the window and slider is either a removable insulated plug or a hinged insulated plug. Otherwise all that has happened is I put in some R19 in the ceiling and R13 in the non-exterior wall, put up a layer of OSB and drywall, removed a gas insert and covered the hole with sheet rock (I may open it back up and stuff with some insulation if it is beneficial.







I am using the old carpet pad to hold the rubber squares in place and PL gluing them to the sleeper.






 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Soffit Issue

I ran into a couple issues with the soffit layout. With my atmos speakers positioned where they are I had to shrink the soffit attached to the support beam. Not a bit deal in the end. The bigger issue is on the other half of the room. I only have ~6" above the door so I can't continue my 8" soffit in front of the door. I can make that whole side 6" (as outlined in red below) which should look fine. The only problem is I planned on putting LED strip lighting behind crown molding on the inner side of the soffit.

I could have the crown start at the bottom of my 6" soffit and continue that line around my 8" soffits also (2" above the bottom).

Any suggestions?

 

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Sub'd. I am in the planning stages for a very similar sized theater and I am doing almost the same speaker setup (volt 6 for sides/atmos, a 6300 receiver, 1299 for the LCR and 2 full martys). I look forward to seeing how it comes along, good luck! Could you explain more about what benefits you saw from decoupling the floor? I will also be on a cement slab, but no upstairs above me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Sub'd. I am in the planning stages for a very similar sized theater and I am doing almost the same speaker setup (volt 6 for sides/atmos, a 6300 receiver, 1299 for the LCR and 2 full martys). I look forward to seeing how it comes along, good luck! Could you explain more about what benefits you saw from decoupling the floor? I will also be on a cement slab, but no upstairs above me.
That will be a great setup! I decoupled my floors to increase the tactile response from my subs (which is nil on slab concrete). You would think the upstairs was possessed during bass scenes and in the theater you would hardly know anything was happening. You get some shaking from your seating (resonating frequency?) but it is very minimal compared to a floating subfloor.

So I ran some nearfield tests both on a decoupled riser and off (on slab) and the difference was enough for me to give up the 3" needed for my decoupled floor. I had 8'9" to start with so 3 inches wasn't the end of the world for me.

I'll be testing the floor this week...to see how well this translated (floating riser to full floating floor).
 

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I could have the crown start at the bottom of my 6" soffit and continue that line around my 8" soffits also (2" above the bottom).

Any suggestions?
I wonder if it might look a bit funny having 3 walls with some of the soffit below the crown and some flush... what about 3" up on the three walls and 1" up on the short wall? I can't really visualize which would look better.

Great looking room, I'm sure the new theatre is going to be amazing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I wonder if it might look a bit funny having 3 walls with some of the soffit below the crown and some flush... what about 3" up on the three walls and 1" up on the short wall? I can't really visualize which would look better.
Yeah I'm in the same boat...trying to visualize what will look better. I'm almost wondering if I forgo the 6" soffit above the door and take my 8" soffit up to the entry and terminate the lighting something like the picture below.



 

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Yeah I'm in the same boat...trying to visualize what will look better. I'm almost wondering if I forgo the 6" soffit above the door and take my 8" soffit up to the entry and terminate the lighting something like the picture below.
I'm in a similar position as well. I was working with a pretty short ceiling to begin with, so my soffit only drops 8" from the ceiling. However, in my theater there's a window behind the screen (that needed to stay for a multitude of reasons), so the center channel is above, and the shelf hangs about 9.5-10" down. So when I finish the soffit facing, I'm going to have to figure out how to work the offset.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I'm in a similar position as well. I was working with a pretty short ceiling to begin with, so my soffit only drops 8" from the ceiling. However, in my theater there's a window behind the screen (that needed to stay for a multitude of reasons), so the center channel is above, and the shelf hangs about 9.5-10" down. So when I finish the soffit facing, I'm going to have to figure out how to work the offset.
I understand having to keep an inconvenient window in a home theater :p. Are you also putting light strips in the soffit? If not, check out this build, swapping his projector for your center channel.

Center Channel Option
post #65 and #73
 
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