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Greetings everyone, I am spending my nights and weekends remodeling a house I bought a year ago to raise my family in. Ended up stripping the house to the studs and everything is new including the layout. I have four Yamaha NS-IC800s in the living room/ dining room ceiling and would like to add a subwoofer or two in the attic above the entry/kitchen to fill out the lower end. This will be for casual background music listening. I've contemplated everything from IB to the lilmike Anarchy, T6, F20... I'd like to stay with a cabinet rather than the IB in this case. We'll get to the basement theater later ;) Looking for thoughts, opinions, experience.

The kitchen and entry have 7'7" ceilings and the living/dining room are 7'7" at the front/back wall and vault to 11'6" in the middle. There is no drywall yet so the access is good. Dimensions are in feet for the drawing.

Thanks,
Connor
3097062
 

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Do you have a budget in mind?
 

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I’d like to keep it under a million all in. Oh, the sub not the remodel? Let’s say $500-$1000 for driver, wood, amp.
 

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Background music is a pretty low bar for sub performance requirements. You can pretty much choose any decent driver and get acceptable response given those wide open criteria. Since the box will be in the attic, size doesn't really matter too much. If you're never going to really turn it up I'd probably scrounge around partsexpress and find some budget 8" to 12" drivers on sale and just built a couple simple boxes. Amp wise if you want to keep it simple just use one of the external sub amps again from partsexpress, SA230 or similar and locate wherever you have your source/control components. No need for a pro-amp and DSP for something of this caliber.

Brand wise, lots out there that are great, my brother just picked up a couple of Peerless 830452's for his truck, I helped him put together the box and we listened hooked up in the garage system (i.e. not in a tiny automotive environment) and I was shocked how low they went in a small sealed box, and how clean they sounded. 4 of those in a series/parallel arrangement would be easy to drive and within your budget. They're limited on how loud they can get but for background music.... you'll prob be fine.
 

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Greetings everyone, I am spending my nights and weekends remodeling a house I bought a year ago to raise my family in. Ended up stripping the house to the studs and everything is new including the layout. I have four Yamaha NS-IC800s in the living room/ dining room ceiling and would like to add a subwoofer or two in the attic above the entry/kitchen to fill out the lower end. This will be for casual background music listening. I've contemplated everything from IB to the lilmike Anarchy, T6, F20... I'd like to stay with a cabinet rather than the IB in this case. We'll get to the basement theater later ;) Looking for thoughts, opinions, experience.

The kitchen and entry have 7'7" ceilings and the living/dining room are 7'7" at the front/back wall and vault to 11'6" in the middle. There is no drywall yet so the access is good. Dimensions are in feet for the drawing.

Thanks,
Connor
View attachment 3097062

This may be an inspiration, obviously overkill for your needs, but good to see how someone else used their attic space.

Doug's Stealthy living room HT
 
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This may be an inspiration, obviously overkill for your needs, but good to see how someone else used their attic space.

Doug's Stealthy living room HT
Wow that’s an ambitious project. My house was 1974 and all the asbestos you could imagine. I’m 40k in abatement alone just to get down to bare stud walls. I’ve got some time before drywall is coming so I’ll still have easy access to the attic space. Here’s where I am today (and it’s been spray foamed)
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This may be an inspiration, obviously overkill for your needs, but good to see how someone else used their attic space.

Doug's Stealthy living room HT
Exactly the thread I was going to point OP to...

ETA: Take C. Popovich's advice. No need to get silly with subs if only for ambient music (and they don't have to be in the attic, where they most likely won't work as well).
 

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My house was 1974 and all the asbestos you could imagine. I’m 40k in abatement alone just to get down to bare stud walls.
Oww... that's steep, but removing asbestos is an arduous task.
 

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Oww... that's steep, but removing asbestos is an arduous task.
We knew the ceiling popcorn was asbestos. No big deal. That was only 9k to have abated. But when the company was out doing the work and I mentioned in wanted to move a wall they tested the walls and the joint compound and texture came back positive. So screw it, it’s just money, I had them gut the entire house all the way to studs and subfloor and we started over. New kitchen, three new bathrooms, all new electrical, plumbing, hvac. Everything is new. I’ve got smurf tube ran to accommodate four zones of audio in addition to the separate theater in the rec room.
 

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That is the hard part with a remodel. All it takes is peeling a paint chip off and then everything starts to unravel. To do it right you need to chase it down to the end And the fix the problems and rebuild as you want. It can dramatically increase costs for the project.
 

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That is the hard part with a remodel. All it takes is peeling a paint chip off and then everything starts to unravel. To do it right you need to chase it down to the end And the fix the problems and rebuild as you want. It can dramatically increase costs for the project.
I’ve been having so much fun rebuilding this house. We changed the entire layout and have been doing it ourselves. The ace in my pocket is that my dad is a retired construction project manager and I worked for him in my teen years so I’ve done it all and know who to ask when I need pointers.
 
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