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Auto shutdown for DLP.. saves bulb?
I have read where people are recommending a small computer type UPS (by APC or Belkin) to prevent long-term power failures from shortening the bulb life or burning out the DLP lamp. My concern is that they will only provide 5 to 25 minutes of backup power, but it won't turn the set off allowing the fan to cool the bulb down. If your not in the room with it to shut it off, you still have the same issue. Having kids the TV's are often left on.
I wish there was a USB or Serial device that would send out IR off command to the DLP set once the power has failed. I tried working with a Smarthome product called IR Linc and a AC probe to detect when power has failed, but the probe won't trigger the IR command only a X-10 signal will. It does check the probe to see if AC power is present before sending the IR OFF command.
Any suggestions or wouldn't it be great if APC manufactures made a UPS for home theater DLP's and LCD's with a learning IR shutdown remote eye.
I wish there was a USB or Serial device that would send out IR off command to the DLP set once the power has failed. I tried working with a Smarthome product called IR Linc and a AC probe to detect when power has failed, but the probe won't trigger the IR command only a X-10 signal will. It does check the probe to see if AC power is present before sending the IR OFF command.
Any suggestions or wouldn't it be great if APC manufactures made a UPS for home theater DLP's and LCD's with a learning IR shutdown remote eye.
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I don't know it can be possible to do this with a TV.... But i'm pretty safe in saying that when the power goes out, even if you'r in another room or on an other floor, you have plenty of time to get to the TV and shut it off....
| Originally posted by VideoNavi My concern is that they will only provide 5 to 25 minutes of backup power, but it won't turn the set off allowing the fan to cool the bulb down. If your not in the room with it to shut it off, you still have the same issue. Having kids the TV's are often left on. |
I had a different power failure related problem with my 50" RCA DLP: if there was a power failure when the TV was off, when the power was restored, the TV came on. That was bad because I may not be at home or may be asleep when it happens. I don't know whether this problem is limited to just RCA DLPs or happens to all DLPs. I solved my problem with a device, called a "Phone Boot" that I had bought for another purpose many years ago. If there is a power failure the Phone Boot prevents the TV from being energized after power is restored until I press a switch on the Phone Boot.
Seems pretty silly, and maybe it is a setting in a service menu. I know Sammy DLPs don't act that way.
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| Originally posted by gwsat solved my problem with a device, called a "Phone Boot" that I had bought for another purpose many years ago. If there is a power failure the Phone Boot prevents the TV from being energized after power is restored until I press a switch on the Phone Boot. |
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Originally posted by gwsat
solved my problem with a device, called a "Phone Boot" that I had bought for another purpose many years ago. If there is a power failure the Phone Boot prevents the TV from being energized after power is restored until I press a switch on the Phone Boot.
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Matt -- Given the many differences in the ways various manufacturers implement DLP technology, it doesn't surprise me that you haven't seen the problem with your Sammy. Fortunately, the bug is now a non-issue for me thanks to my ancient Phone Boot.
| Originally posted by turls Seems pretty silly, and maybe it is a setting in a service menu. I know Sammy DLPs don't act that way. |
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Originally posted by gwsat
solved my problem with a device, called a "Phone Boot" that I had bought for another purpose many years ago. If there is a power failure the Phone Boot prevents the TV from being energized after power is restored until I press a switch on the Phone Boot.
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Matt -- Given the many differences in the ways various manufacturers implement DLP technology, it doesn't surprise me that you haven't seen the problem with your Sammy. Fortunately, the bug is now a non-issue for me thanks to my ancient Phone Boot.
VideoNavi,
Unless you actually have rolling brown outs, long term power outages are rare.
My wife knows to turn off the computer and DLP TV in the event of a power outage and my son is too young to be left alone in the house.
When my son gets older and can be left alone in the house, he too will be trained to turn of computers and TVs during a power outage (it's not a hard strategy to implement.)
For that matter I even told my mother in law this who looked at me like I was nuts or something. She didn't understand what a UPS was, but now she does because two days after telling her this a T-storm rolled through and we had a 30 sec power interruption and the TV was still working while everything else went out (I of course turned off the TV - then she complained because I wouldn't turn it on for 10mins while the bulb cooled down.)
CCourtney
Unless you actually have rolling brown outs, long term power outages are rare.
My wife knows to turn off the computer and DLP TV in the event of a power outage and my son is too young to be left alone in the house.
When my son gets older and can be left alone in the house, he too will be trained to turn of computers and TVs during a power outage (it's not a hard strategy to implement.)
For that matter I even told my mother in law this who looked at me like I was nuts or something. She didn't understand what a UPS was, but now she does because two days after telling her this a T-storm rolled through and we had a 30 sec power interruption and the TV was still working while everything else went out (I of course turned off the TV - then she complained because I wouldn't turn it on for 10mins while the bulb cooled down.)
CCourtney
Thanks for all the posts and suggestions. It's hard enough to train my kids (almost all teenagers) to pickup stuff, let alone turn TV's off! So here is my solution that I've come up with using 3 or 4 parts and a UPS.
Parts:
+ Small wall transformer (AC or DC between 8 and 16 volts) plugged into wall outlet.
+ X10 Power Flash http://www.smarthome.com/4060.HTML plugged into one UPS socket - The wall transformer output connected to the contacts on the Power Flash produce a X10 ON code when powered on and X10 OFF code when power is removed (power failure).
+ X10 to IR Linc http://www.smarthome.com/1623.HTML. Also powered from UPS converts the X10 code to learned infrared remote code and transmits it out the included remote stick on IR transmitters for the front of TV.
+ (Optional) AC probe plugged into wall outlet for IR Linc to prevent ON code from turning TV back on when no AC power is present at wall outlet.
+ And of course a UPS with the TV plugged into it.
The end result will be if a power failure occurs it will remove power from the wall transformer causing the Power Flash to send a X10 OFF code. The IR Linc will then be programmed to recognize this X10 OFF code and send out the corresponding discrete IR Power-OFF command to my DLP. If no power is present at wall outlet (using optional AC probe) it won't allow a X10 ON command to turn the TV back on until power is restored.
Parts:
+ Small wall transformer (AC or DC between 8 and 16 volts) plugged into wall outlet.
+ X10 Power Flash http://www.smarthome.com/4060.HTML plugged into one UPS socket - The wall transformer output connected to the contacts on the Power Flash produce a X10 ON code when powered on and X10 OFF code when power is removed (power failure).
+ X10 to IR Linc http://www.smarthome.com/1623.HTML. Also powered from UPS converts the X10 code to learned infrared remote code and transmits it out the included remote stick on IR transmitters for the front of TV.
+ (Optional) AC probe plugged into wall outlet for IR Linc to prevent ON code from turning TV back on when no AC power is present at wall outlet.
+ And of course a UPS with the TV plugged into it.
The end result will be if a power failure occurs it will remove power from the wall transformer causing the Power Flash to send a X10 OFF code. The IR Linc will then be programmed to recognize this X10 OFF code and send out the corresponding discrete IR Power-OFF command to my DLP. If no power is present at wall outlet (using optional AC probe) it won't allow a X10 ON command to turn the TV back on until power is restored.
After sending product recommendations to a couple UPS manufactures, Monster has a answered the call with a $299 MSRP, ~$200 web store price UPS product that will help concerned projection TV owners with decreasing bulb life. It's Monster model number HT UPS 500 and has a learning infrared eye that repeats command(s), such as power OFF when a loss of power occurs and a load is detected on the AC outlets, keeping the bulbs fan running during the cool down period. Monster call's this 'CoolDown Technology' and it's just what's needed for us concerned rear or front projection owners.
Installation note: The corded infrared transmitter must be pointing at your IR eye of the display device (TV). Your IR eye could be inside your cabinet, such was the case of my Samsung DLP and the eye had to positioned inside the cabinet - not on the front of the screen. Locate your IR eye before buying.
Installation note: The corded infrared transmitter must be pointing at your IR eye of the display device (TV). Your IR eye could be inside your cabinet, such was the case of my Samsung DLP and the eye had to positioned inside the cabinet - not on the front of the screen. Locate your IR eye before buying.
I'm probably missing something here, but I've read of these concerns elsewhere also. But how often does your power go out? I personally experience power outages or interruptions rarely. The costs of a decent UPS unit vs. a new bulb doesn't sound appealing to me. So instead of picking up a bulb a few weeks/months early due to shortened life span, you would buy a UPS unit & a new bulb every few years?
I don't get it?
I don't get it?
True, most power failures are during bad weather conditions. The problem is you never know when they happen. My luck would be when the TV is left on to watch news of the storm!
My understanding is a couple times without cool down and your bulb life goes down considerable. I don't think I've ever seen a precentage of bulb life destroyed by lack of cool down, but I'd sure like to see the precentage. Anyone know?
I think most people agree a surge spike protector is important and with PVRs/DVRs a UPS is of benefit to prevent from missing a recording. If it also turns my DLP off all the better for the bulb.
My understanding is a couple times without cool down and your bulb life goes down considerable. I don't think I've ever seen a precentage of bulb life destroyed by lack of cool down, but I'd sure like to see the precentage. Anyone know?
I think most people agree a surge spike protector is important and with PVRs/DVRs a UPS is of benefit to prevent from missing a recording. If it also turns my DLP off all the better for the bulb.
My take on the whole lamp longevity: the fan is meant to cool the bulb so that a semblence of real world conditions can be met. This means that the sets are designed to have the fans running .5-1 minute after turning off the set so that it can be turned on again in as short a time as possible. If there was no bulb cooling after turning off the set, it would take anywhere from 10 minutes+ to have the lamp cool sufficiently for a restart. These things do not like to be turned on when they are already hot. The user manuals I have read all state the same thing: the lamp needs to be cooled by the fan, otherwise (in the event of a power failure), wait 10-15 minutes before restarting.
Monster's claim on helping bulb longevity is purely a marketing ploy, IMO. If the set gets turned off correctly or there is a power failure, both cases require a bulb cooldown before restart.
Monster's claim on helping bulb longevity is purely a marketing ploy, IMO. If the set gets turned off correctly or there is a power failure, both cases require a bulb cooldown before restart.
I may have a power disruption once or twice a year, the chances of me having the TV on at that particular time, reduces the number of it affecting my TV significantly, Yes if you can't miss a episode of a particular show then you may need a backup unit & VideoNavi is right you definitely need a surge protector. I'm not against using a UPS, I just don't see the need (cost justification) for it, the fan just helps the bulb cool faster, it's not some sort of super cooling system involving liquid helium or something. Simply put just because your power cuts out it's not the end of your tv set or bulb, this is something that would have to happen quite a few times to dramatically affect the life of the bulb.
I may have a power disruption once or twice a year, the chances of me having the TV on at that particular time, reduces the number of it affecting my TV significantly, Yes if you can't miss a episode of a particular show then you may need a backup unit & VideoNavi is right you definitely need a surge protector. I'm not against using a UPS, I just don't see the need (cost justification) for it, the fan just helps the bulb cool faster, it's not some sort of super cooling system involving liquid helium or something. Simply put just because your power cuts out it's not the end of your tv set or bulb, this is something that would have to happen quite a few times to dramatically affect the life of the bulb.
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