[pbc]

So it's been over 10 years, moved into a larger house that is dwarfing the low end output of my old sealed dual opposed AV15H subs, and thought I'd try out the old ~5.5 cubic foot dual PR based AV15H that "came and went" way back when. More importantly, I'm just bored and wanted to build something different.

Did a Sketchup of the design, still debating whether to try staining the birch white or doing some form of white wash vs a dark stain as they are today. My wall unit is white, so was thinking the white subs would compliment it.

Will use my Funk Audio 2x2400 amp for now to power these, though I'm wondering if I can use 1 channel to drive both subs given xmax is around 1000-1100 Watts.

 

[pbc]

Contacted Mark and Mach 5 Audio to build the 18" PR's for me, they had the following specs before he added mass to get it to 2500grams.

Fs - 23Hz
Qms - 8
Sd - 1209cm2
VAS - 240L
Xmax - 35mm
Mms - 380g

Had contacted John at AE, but the cost after FX rate and shipping would have been too much. Mark was great, told me it would take 2 or 3 weeks before he could build the woofers for me, then when he was ready I sent a small deposit, and about 1.5 weeks later I received my first PR yesterday (not sure why Purolator only sent 1 and the other 3 are expected Monday).

Had the cut sheets cut for me by Century Mill Lumber out of 13 ply Baltic Birch. Then started on the circles using my Jasper 200 and router.

WinISD file and Driver pics attached. Also test fitted the 18.5" cutout to see if it would be flush ... perfect.

Okay, finished all the circle cuts. Dust wasn't too bad.

 

[pbc]

Reserved 2

 

[pbc]

reserved 3

 

[pbc]

reserved 4

 

[pbc]

So found the AV15H pdf online for dimensions, but now I can't recall, the first pic says the internal dimension is 14", the second shows 14.188". On my Jasper jig, would I choose 14 3/16, or 14 1/4? Screw holes seem to be 14.688?



http://aespeakers.com/pdfs/AV15-dimensional.pdf

Edit: Went with 14 3/16, hopefully it fits, was too lazy to remove the driver from the existing enclosure.

 

[Chris Popovich]

Glad Mark worked out for you! Keep us posted!

 

[pbc]

Yeah, he was great during the process. Thx for the recco.

 

[spanish68]

Nice room + nice subs. Are you doing two or four PR boxes? What tuning are you planning for your subs? If you were using the Funk amp two channels before with no issues, I would do the same with this build. I'll be following your build and impressions. I have a feeling that you are going to be very happy with their low end, to go along with their great mid-bass.

 

[pbc]

Two PR boxes for now. I have weigh for up to 2500 grams, which I think tunes it to somewhere in the 16 to 18hz range.

For the life of me I can't recall, what size screws (1.5" or 1.25") do I purchase to mount the drivers, and were folks recommending Hurricane nuts or T nuts?

Would this stuff work fine as gasket tape?

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07PBSBNRM/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A18E2U254OSKWZ&psc=1

It's closed cell neoprene vs PVC.

 

[spanish68]

So you are going to use the dual PR subs with the dual opposed sealed sub? That gasket tape should be fine but I would go with 3/4" width. I got mine at Home Depot. I used 1.5" screws for my subs but 1.25" should also work fine.

 

[pbc]

So you are going to use the dual PR subs with the dual opposed sealed sub? That gasket tape should be fine but I would go with 3/4" width. I got mine at home depot. I used 1.5" screws for my subs but 1.25" should also work fine.

Thx, 3/4" width by 1/4" thick?

 

[spanish68]

Yes.

 

[spanish68]

Also, I would add some bracing from the front baffle to the back of the enclosure, maybe some dowels.

 

[drewp29]

Also, I would add some bracing from the front baffle to the back of the enclosure, maybe some dowels.

3/4" or 1" dowels work well. I usually leave the front baffle for last, get the dowels glued in place with PL, put a nice large dollop of PL on the end of the dowels and then affix the front baffle. The PL expands so any slight gap you might have between the dowel end and the baffle gets filled. Then I fillet around the end of the dowel with PL after it is assembled just to make sure it is secure. It's messy and doesn't look great, but who cares how it looks since it's on the inside. The PL makes a pretty solid connection, and so far I haven't had one break loose on me. So far.


Looking at the photos above, I keep trying to figure out something to do with all the dang wood circles I have in the garage. I've used a few for corner braces, but since you can make 4 from one circle, I still have quite a few left over.

 

[pbc]

3/4" or 1" dowels work well. I usually leave the front baffle for last, get the dowels glued in place with PL, put a nice large dollop of PL on the end of the dowels and then affix the front baffle. The PL expands so any slight gap you might have between the dowel end and the baffle gets filled. Then I fillet around the end of the dowel with PL after it is assembled just to make sure it is secure. It's messy and doesn't look great, but who cares how it looks since it's on the inside. The PL makes a pretty solid connection, and so far I haven't had one break loose on me. So far.


Looking at the photos above, I keep trying to figure out something to do with all the dang wood circles I have in the garage. I've used a few for corner braces, but since you can make 4 from one circle, I still have quite a few left over.

Stain them and you have some cheese and meat serving plates?

 

[pbc]

I used 1.5" screws for my subs but 1.25" should also work fine.

These should do the trick.

https://www.amazon.ca/Hard-Find-Fastener-014973307790-Piece-12/dp/B003PNZEI2/ref=pd_sbs_60_6/131-3066106-5875839?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B003PNZEI2&pd_rd_r=85e2b36b-8255-402e-8cb0-800a16a3972b&pd_rd_w=avj0s&pd_rd_wg=GIvKy&pf_rd_p=0ec96c83-1800-4e36-8486-44f5573a2612&pf_rd_r=7V45CAH3BMKJG50VQ3MF&psc=1&refRID=7V45CAH3BMKJG50VQ3MF

 

[pbc]

So you are going to use the dual PR subs with the dual opposed sealed sub? That gasket tape should be fine but I would go with 3/4" width. I got mine at Home Depot. I used 1.5" screws for my subs but 1.25" should also work fine.

Have a link to the screws you used? The ones I bought were way too thick (thought that 1/4" was equivalent to an M10 but it's larger).

Also, what are folks using for the binding posts these days? Just looking for something easy to put on the double wall back of the enclosure.

Might try gluing one of the enclosures today and just not the top yet, though I feel like I'm forgetting something that I'll remember right after it's glued! lol

 

[spanish68]

With my latest build, dual sealed Eminence NSW 21", I went to homedepo and got deep thread 1.5" screws and I believe they were #6 (width). You'll need either #8 or #6 and 1.25" or 1.5" in lenght. Phillip head is fine. Basic, but they worked great for me. As long as they are wood screws (deep thread), they'll work to mount your PR's and drivers.

With regards to the connectors. In my case, since I have one Speakerpower HT4000 plate amp powering my two subs, I used Speakon Neutrik 4 pole connector. You'll need one per box and the connecting wire if you're using one amp or one amp channel to power two subs. If it is just one amp or one amp channel for one sub, then a simple cup connector (round or square) should do the trick. Also, since my Speakerpower amp had a speakon connector, I only needed one speakon connector. Does your amp have the speakon connector?

Check partsexpress to get ideas or if you need to shop some sub supplies. If you need sub feet, grille mesh, etc, you can get it there. I just ordered some mesh since I'm going to build two grilles for my two subs and will use magnets to mount them.

 

[pbc]

Thx, already have speaker cable from my rack amp to the sub locations and I terminated them with banana plugs where the existing subs are, so trying to locate something simple I can install after putting the box together vs before. Being in Canada Parts express unfortunately has a high shipping cost!