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Thx, already have speaker cable from my rack amp to the sub locations and I terminated them with banana plugs where the existing subs are, so trying to locate something simple I can install after putting the box together vs before. Being in Canada Parts express unfortunately has a high shipping cost!
You can get Neutrik SpeakON connector 4-packs for $8.99CAD on amazon.ca. Add on the flange connector (search for "speakon" and it will show up in the list) for $3.99 each and you're set. Just use simple 12-guage speaker wire.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
You can get Neutrik SpeakON connector 4-packs for $8.99CAD on amazon.ca. Add on the flange connector (search for "speakon" and it will show up in the list) for $3.99 each and you're set. Just use simple 12-guage speaker wire.
Thx.. Found the flanges but not the 4 pack of neutrik for 8.99?
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Okay, so made some progress on both boxes. Everything glued up and sanded except for the top and front baffles.

Rushed a bit too much on the second box last night, so unfortunately the top won't be perfectly square on that one. :mad:
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Couple questions:

1. Any particular kind of caulk that folks use for a final seal?
2. My AV15H drivers are 4ohm with 4 binding posts, they were wired originally for a dual opposed driver box as per the picture below. How do I wire them for this application where there is only 1 driver per box?

Fortunately my wife decided she doesn't like the thought of big white boxes and is happy with a dark brown stain.

Unfortunately I realized my measurements were about 2" short on the width of the grills, which I guess is fine as I'll use them as is and it will become more of a "feature"! :)
 

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Looks like you're making good progress. For sealing the inside of the box I would just use some wood glue. For wiring, use a wire for + to - between each sub's DVC, then + to + from one of the sub's DVC to the other sub's DVC and the same thing with - to -, from the same connection just mentioned, you run a + wire from the driver to the + connection of the amp and same thing with the - connection to one of your amp's channel for a load of 2ohm. You'll need one speakon connector in each box to run the wires. Each sub will get 1,200watts which is right on, assuming each channel of the Funk amp can handle 2ohm.
 

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If your amp has speakon connectors, then you'll need three speakon connectors to connect everything. If not, then two speakon connectors and one binding cup speaker terminal should do the job.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Did a bit more work this weekend. Boxes are all glued up. A little wood filler was needed here and there. Next step is final sanding before conditioner and gel stain.

Man, they are bigger and way heavier than I imagined. Must be around 90lbs or so each.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Asked Nathan at Funk if the amp could handle running two boxes..

"You can, but the current limit would be reached at about the same total power as if you run into 8 ohms where voltage would be the limiting factor. That’s why 4 is optimal for these amps as its where voltage and current both limit around the same time providing the most total power.

The best choice, when deciding between running it at 2 or 8 comes down to the “real” impedance of the system and that depends on the DCR of the driver and varies with frequency and enclosure alignment. Often sealed will run a good bit over the nominal impedance for most of the used frequency range so you could be best to run at the lower, 2, but for ported/passive rad often the impedance dips are right in the used range so you be better to run higher at 8ohm."

Admittedly I may need to read that a few times as I'm not sure what it means.
 

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If it was me, I would go with the 2ohms wiring. Below 20hz or so, specially in the low teens and single digits, the impedence will probably drop below 2ohms and that could push your amp to its limits. In your case, it looks like you are going to put a high pass filter on your PR sub in the 15-17hz range so the amp is not going to strain with those ultra low frequencies. You are also going to get a lot more power vs the 8ohm connection. Test it and see what you get. Make sure the amp can deal with that load, talk to Nathan again if you have to.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Another option I'm looking at would be to purchase an FP6000Q or FP10000Q clone.

Issue with those is amp noise. Nathans response didn't inspire a lot of confidence the amp could handle it.

Or maybe go with 2ohm wiring for now and just run one off each channel with the high passes on each.

Given the size of these boxes I won't be running 3 upstairs in the family room anytime soon.
 

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Try the 2ohm wiring per channel with high pass. The clones you mentioned have very good power but like you said noise is an issue. Speakerpower is one of the best options for 2ohms but it's not cheap.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Try the 2ohm wiring per channel with high pass. The clones you mentioned have very good power but like you said noise is an issue. Speakerpower is one of the best options for 2ohms but it's not cheap.
If I was in the US I would have gone with soeakerpower as I love their amps. But with the 35 to 40% exchange usd to Cad and then shipping across the border and duties./brokerage fees, the cost would be insane.
 

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Discussion Starter #36 (Edited)
I would also use a couple of dowels from the driver to the back panel to make the box stiffer and less prono to vibration.
I have some pieces of wood on the top and bottom (can't see in picture) going across the length.

But honestly I can't imagine this thing moving or having vibration issues. Outside of the top and bottom it is double baffled all the way around and insanely inert.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Figures. I test fit the baffle for the PRs and it was fine. But for some reason one is fine, and 3 are too tight so the PR wont fit.

Given they're unfortunately all glued up, what are my options to widen it a bit without risking too much damage to the baffle? :confused:
 
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