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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
How can we help those of us who are choosing to do a DIY build ?


What measures need to be taken to avoid a sub that cannot perform to our liking.


I don't think its the usual Ported vs. Sealed debate. I think the most over looked aspect is volume or SPL at the listening position. Another concideration is how high the sub will have to play frequency wise (hz). What are the capabilities of our mains (frequency wise also).


Undistorted SPL's are a big bottom line to avoid being discouraged and frustrated with a new build.
 

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1. Like you need any help picking your SPLs/Roomsize.


2. Like you could resist upgrading.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Maybe the title is miss leading. Upgrades are great, but upgrades because you didn't do your homework stinks. I've read it time and time again on how someones new DIY cant hang.


It's SPL at the LP (listening position)+ (undistorted)+ (uncompressed)=
 

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Build bigger and more expensive than you first think?


I think upgrading is fairly normal because you either get used to what you have and want more just because, or find out your system can't fully hang after playing the latest and greatest movie.


Things I think people can try to do is...

- Measure their existing sub/speakers to see what capabilities they currently have.

- Model different subwoofers to see what they're capable of to compare.

- Add a little bit more for "headroom", just in case they want a little bit more.
 

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I think a lot of people (myself included) had no idea how much subwoofer they'd really need in order to fill the room to their liking. I fell under the "car audio" spell and remembered that the two 15" subs I had in my truck could nearly make you sick, and I never was able to stand them at 3/4 volume.


Then you go looking around in stores and see that most places sell one 10" or 12" sub and you figure that's what must be needed.


I bought one "600 watt" 12" Polk HT sub and quickly realized it was not going to cut it.


I then bought two 12" Elemental Design subs figuring I would overkill the room. Then came on this site and figured those may not even do it justice. So I sat those raw drivers aside and went for true overkill with the twelve 10's.




So I figure that whatever the average person thinks they need, they should at least double it.


Had I known that, I would have saved a few hundred on the Polk, and a couple hundred on the ED subs. $500 extra bucks saved would have been a nice upgrade for my mains.
 

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Well it's always a safe bet to err on the "bigger and badder is better" side of hi-fi things. I'd rather overkill it and end up loving it with fewer funds in the pocket than underfund it and wish for something more.


J.
 

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I think this is a great thread. My room is 18x28 with a 9 foot ceiling. I thought a pair of 15" tempests powered by a samson would be enough (also thinking back to my car audio days). I was disappointed.


Now I'm going with 2 mal-x and 2 ep2500 and really hoping that this will do the trick.

Maybe the tempests can go do the bedroom theatre instead :p
 

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The funny thing about DIY HT is that the "what is enough" measurement is a often sliding scale as well.


When you think you have enough or what you thought you wanted, you find yourself wanting just that little bit more...or wondering what another kilowatt or another driver, etc. will do.
 

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Quote:
When you think you have enough or what you thought you wanted, you find yourself wanting just that little bit more...or wondering what another kilowatt or another driver, etc. will do.

I suppose the general rule of running four high excursion 18"s at 2600-4000 kWh would apply here. It's a good starting point anyway
 

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Hey I started out with an old Velodyne CT-120, then to PB-10 to dual PB-10s to PC 20-39 to Plus/2 to Ultra/2 to 2 x LMS-Ultra 18s with two CE4000s, all in a 1700 cube room.



Oh yea, and 8 shakers.
 

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For some of us the only governing factor is money and/or time.


I had to stop somewhere, but I am looking for another project.


In other words, if the upgrade bug gets you, look out!
 
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