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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Has anyone used this switch?

http://www.avtoolbox.com/avt-5842.htm


It costs $90, has 100mhz bandwidth, and is remote controllable. If it switched digital audio it would be perfect, but even without that it looks ideal for my needs. The form factor looks easier to hide than the Audio Authority 1154 too. I wish it wasn't green, but black spray paint is cheap.


Otherwise I'm looking at the Zektor (the autoswitching on the AA1154 would complicate rather than simplify my system) which is quite a bit more expensive and larger than I'd like.


alex
 

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Wow that looks amazing! I was going to get the Audio Authority model, but I wanted 2 outputs. At $89 this thing is a steal!


Any reviews?!?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
If you are going to use both outputs spend $20 more and get the MX model. It lets you control each output seperately.


I couldn't find any reviews. I found it through a link on here, but no one had bought it. I guess I'll be the guinea pig.


alex
 

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I was looking for reviews on this as well. I just received a Zektor switch, but if I had known about this, I might have waited.


Also, you should be able to get the MX version for only $10 more. The main page for the AVT-5842MX shows $99 (although the store page shows $119). Give them a call and ask for the $99 price.

AVT-5842MX


Keep us posted if you order this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I went back and forth a lot between this and the 1154 and decided to try the 1154 for now. If the auto-sensing doesn't work well for me then I'll order the AVTools AVT-5842.


Hopefully someone else can pick one up and let us know how it is.


I also have to say that I was really disappointing in the component switching capabilities of current receivers. I realized this morning that it could make sense to purchase a new receiver with 3 inputs and sell my current one (a Marantz SR8000). I couldn't find anything new with 3 or more inputs for under about $2000 though...that was very disappointing.


My three component/progressive devices are:

* DVD player

* HDTV reciever/cable box

* X-Box gaming console


alex
 

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On their WEB page, they list the following two lines which are really throwing me for a loop. Anyone know what they are really saying?


-Works with Progressive Scan YPbPr 480p, 576p, 720p or 1080i Component Video


-Works with Interlaced Scan YCbCr Component Video


What is the difference between YPbPr and YCbCr? The only thing I can find on it is that one is used in the professional world and the other in the consumer world.
 

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Quote:
Originally posted by Babula
On their WEB page, they list the following two lines which are really throwing me for a loop. Anyone know what they are really saying?


-Works with Progressive Scan YPbPr 480p, 576p, 720p or 1080i Component Video


-Works with Interlaced Scan YCbCr Component Video


What is the difference between YPbPr and YCbCr? The only thing I can find on it is that one is used in the professional world and the other in the consumer world.
One is high band, YPbPr, for EDTV, HDTV.

One is low band, YCbCr, for SDTV 480i sources.

I think.
 

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I just purchased the AA 1154 but already have an issue I can't seem to work out. Have a Sony HD-100 and a BEV 6000 inputing to it. The problem is both seem to have a carrier signal inputing the 1154 even when turned off. Hence the auto switching function will not work properly. Since there is not a remote I have to manually switch, which pretty much defeats the purpose. Anyone have a fix or am I SOL?
 

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John, instead of turning the 6000 off, try switching it from HD mode to SD mode. I think that might accomplish what you need.
 

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DP1- Thanks for the suggestion. I tried it, the light for the input on the 1154 flickered but did not switch. Guess I really am SOL.
 

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The only potential issues that I see with the AVToolbox switcher from their spec sheet is the isolation between inputs is listed as >50dB. You really need around 60dB or better if more than source device is turned on, otherwise you will see an increase in background noise level assuming your monitor or projector's internal noise is low. This may be a problem or not depending how much greater then 50 dB the actual isolation is, but this is something to look out for. Also it would have been really nice if they would have included switching for digital audio along with the component video. Since virtually all sources of component video signals (DVD, HD STBs) also provide digital audio output for Dolby Digital (or DTS) surround, I would expect the stereo analog stereo audio switching feature to be useless for most HT owners.


Ron Jones
www.dtvmax.com
 

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Quote:
Originally posted by Ron Jones
Since virtually all sources of component video signals (DVD, HD STBs) also provide digital audio output for Dolby Digital (or DTS) surround, I would expect the stereo analog stereo audio switching feature to be useless for most HT owners.
Yes, I was thinking the same thing, but, if you had (or converted) all your digital audio to SPDIF coax, I bet it would work for that, too.
 

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I just received the AVT-5842 and the picture quality is very poor. Anyone else having the same problem, or did a get a defective unit? I'm sending it back. Any suggestions on a switcher costing less than $200?
 

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Quote:
Originally posted by sveldhou
I just received the AVT-5842 and the picture quality is very poor. Anyone else having the same problem, or did a get a defective unit? I'm sending it back.
Does seem like yours is defective.


I have no problems with my AVT-5842, picture quality is excellent. (I've also gotten used to the green case.)


Thanks to the info provided by other forum members, I was finally able to retire the Radio Shack manual switches.

And it turned out for two slightly different systems, I needed two different types of switches.


The AVT-5842 was perfect for my "secondary" HDTV set-up since it sends the analog audio to the HDTV. When I want digital audio, my audio amplifier selects the digital audio. (A programmable remote allows "one-button" control of the source, the AVT-5842, the amplifier, and the HDTV.)


However for my "primary" HDTV set-up, the autoswitching Audio Authority 1154 is perfect. (The digital audio input levels are very close, so I can use a common input with common level settings for the audio amplifier.)
 

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Green?

Is that the next equipment color coming after silver, or have these guys been spending too much time at Target?
 

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recently picked up a AVT-5842 Component Video Routing Switcher because I needed more component inputs. After hooking up an Xbox, Gamecube and DVD player through it, there seems to be a major picture problem.


Whenever either something white appears, or the majority of the screen is overcome by white, the screen starts rapidly jumping up and down. For example, in the scene of Star Wars episode 2, when Obi Wan visits the clone army, and is in the white room talking to that alien, the screen starts to rapidly jump. Another instance is when The Legend of Zelda :The Wind Waker first starts with the sun pointing directly at the screen, the screen goes really crazy to the point that you can see the picture leaving the screen area and black edges begin to show. I have tested this with both consoles and the same thing occurs.


Anyways, why is this happening? Is the switchbox defective? Has this problem ever happened to anyone else with a component switch?
 

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After talking to thier tech support people, there seems to be an issue regarding this switcher and my TV (Sony KV-32HS510). Just a heads up for anyone looking for a switcher that has the same model as mine, you should look elsewhere.
 

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The problem with the AV-Tools component switcher is poor low-end frequency response. It can't handle large sustained bright scenes without the DC level of the video signal ramping up. Hence the flashing in the picture. It's not a defect, lets call it a "marginal" design.
 

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I use the one from www.latencyzero.com , because I needed 8 inputs and I needed the audio switching as well. It's expensive, but it works very well.
 
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