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Well, I friend made me an offer on my Yamaha M-80 I couldn't refuse, so I sold it, thinking of upgrading. In the meantime, I found a B&K ST2140 to power my Meadowlark Shearwaters for a great price. It's in fantastic shape.. Hooked it up using Tara Lab Interconnects and using a mint Rotel RCD-855 CD transport. In research, I read so many good things about this amp. But I'm must be missing something. The highs and upper mids are pretty good, but it lacks in solid low end response. I can't figure it out. while the Yamaha M-80 is 250 WPC, I kept the gain scaled back to keep from over powering the Meadowlarks. and even half throttled, it "throttles" the B&K. I am just wondering if there is something I am missing. Specific interconnects or power cable ? Just looking for opinions and advice. Thanks..
 

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In all probability, the B and K just does not have enough drive current to really make those speakers come alive in the bass.

Its specs suggest to me that it is not going to match up that well with them; not big enough cojones...lol.

The amplifier I would recommend is the one I use, which is the Musical Fidelity M6PRX.

I drive my Vandersteen Treo speakers, which are very power-hungry, with it and it really does the job.

It puts out around 330 watts at 4 ohms, and is a fantastic-sounding amp.

It replaced a Bryston 3B-SST amplifier, and is a big improvement in sound quality.

Another thing that will make a huge improvement in sound quality is an OPPO BDP-105 player.

The Rotel was good in its day, but the SABRE DAC chips in the 105 are 3 generations newer and sound way way better. The improvements in DAC chips in the last 10 years are rather impressive.

It sounds even better than my $6000 Ayre C5xe/MP player, which was Stereophile's top-rated player for years.

At $1200, it is a total steal; it blows away most players you can buy for under $5000.
 

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NOT any snake oil like power cables. TOTAL BS. ZIP cord is as good a speaker cable as made, actually about the very best. No magic in interconnects. Many do sound different in they screw up the signal and a few speaker cables can even upset the amp stability. Sorry you already wasted your money.
1: Now, if it is over 7 or so years old, the caps need replacing. Mostly you will notice a higher noise level, but it also limits LF transients.
2: Bias may not be set correctly. "more is better" is wrong. There is an optimum bias for all class B amps. Exactly what it is for the Hitachi FETS, I do not know. Actually, I can almost guarantee it is set wrong.
3: Some people consider the LF set cap in the feedback to not be large enough.
4: Mosfets are noted for their musicality, not for artificial "ballsey" like some older BJT designs. Do you know the bass is weak, or maybe it is now correct?
5: Have you re-calibrated levels with your subs?
6: Use the tone controls on your preamp. That is what they are there for
7: Don't use a fancy power line conditioner/filter on it. Surge suppressor only.
8: Is it flat large enough for the load/levels you choose? It is not a really big amp. The way amp power is rated is not really indicative of their usable power.

Note, I replaced my ST-140 with a Parasound 1200 II. Dramatic difference is an understatement. I was a fan of the 9 and 10 series Rotels as they make cheap tweeters not do as many bad things, but once I built better speakers, the Parasounds were far cleaner overall. 1200's are frequentlly on e-bay, but they are OLD and need recaping. If I were to buy a new amp for full range speakers, I would buy the 2250. If monitors and a sub, I would go with the smaller one. ( Or the Halo) If looking for new, don't forget Outlaw. Just plain clean. No BS.

IMHO, the oppo's do sound fine, but are too slow to boot for me as a CD palyer. I keep NAD and Rotels around for CD and the oppo for video.
 
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