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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, I know this has been a rather fague topic and the professionals dont like to give out their secrets about it. That being said, I am planning on purchasing some pretty decent speakers that dont have polar plots tested or published, nor their lobing patterns.


I asked an individual that is in the business to design a baffle wall for me and I didnt get a "no" but more of "I'd rather not". And when I told the speaker manufacturor about the need for the lobing and polar plots I was told that I didnt need them. I'm not trying to disrespect either of these people in any way but I "DO" want a baffle wall for the said speakers.


What information can one get for the needed materials that should go on the wall if one is in this type of situation? As far as building the wall, I am rather confident that placing the speakers in the normal locations will suffice but I would hate to put the wrong material all over the wall. I just dont see why there is so much secrecy when once someone has a designer build one then others that have the same or similar speakers could use the same principles.


So, what type of material would you all use for high compression type drivers?


Posted here because these threads get blown out of proportion in the theater threads.
 

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Well, as pointed out by LTD your post is a little vague, but there's no 'magic' to a baffle wall install. High end mixdown studios used this approach for years. There's lots of high efficiency CD/WG 2way DIY designs that are adaptable to baffle wall install. They will require some modification to the BSC circuit but that's no big deal. If the drive units transition smoothly to the baffle...em...wall the effect is all positives with minimal to no diffraction artifacts, better than box midbass response and of course a cleaner install with floorspace savings. Give us some more details on your plan.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Its just going to be a standard baffle wall with LCR and two subs housed within it behind a 120" screen. The wall will just be made out of 3/4" plywood and covered in whatever material I end up using. The material is speaker dependant according to what I have read on the forums. Thats the part I'm asking about. The speakers cabinets are pretty much designed for this type of use but when I inquired about having the wall designed I was kinda not happy with my results. I dont even truly understand why the polar plots and lobing patterns are needed. I am just ignorant to the engineering standpoint.
 

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well, let's start with the speakers that you plan to build into your front wall.


if you can provide a *really rough* graphic of your room and the speaker placement, that will help a lot.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by mayhem13 /forum/post/19521900


Well, as pointed out by LTD your post is a little vague, but there's no 'magic' to a baffle wall install. High end mixdown studios used this approach for years. There's lots of high efficiency CD/WG 2way DIY designs that are adaptable to baffle wall install. They will require some modification to the BSC circuit but that's no big deal. If the drive units transition smoothly to the baffle...em...wall the effect is all positives with minimal to no diffraction artifacts, better than box midbass response and of course a cleaner install with floorspace savings. Give us some more details on your plan.

Definitely easy to do, its the bass that is the hardest part of a in wall design. Hard only in the fact that the a large amount of rear wave space is needed.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02 /forum/post/19522063


well, let's start with the speakers that you plan to build into your front wall.


if you can provide a *really rough* graphic of your room and the speaker placement, that will help a lot.

Just to be clear. I am pretty sure that he is not building them into his front wall (I may not be telling you anything that you do not know). He is talking about building a second wall out of 3/4" plywood. This wall would be about 2' in front of the existing wall. Speakers will be recessed into the plywood wall. The polar plots help determine the horizontal spacing of the speakers. The amount (thickness) and type of insulation used on the face of the baffle wall is also determined by the speaker measurements? The minimum size of the baffle is also dependent on the measurements. So running the wall full height and width should take care of that design element.


Denis Erskine talked about baffle walls in another thread.
 

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So he has speakers already and he wants to build a wall around them?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Yes the speakers will be purchased in built cabinets. The cabinets are front ported so the design works well. The room is aprox 24'x16' and the wall will be a total wall from floor to ceiling and wall to wall.


I was just going to use the THX specs on the speaker placements. And, the subs will be housed on the floor but still in the wall.


The material to cover the wall in is what my concern is here.
 

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What speakers??


The biggest change will be the boost in the bass beause the baffle will be increased to more or less and infinite length.
 

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Contact Jeff from JTR and ask him about how much the response will change when you extend the baffle out 10 fold.


My suggestion is to treat the walls all around the speakers with 4" OC703 so that the reflections are reduced to really just



What are you doing with the subs??
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Yeah I already have. He said the wall barely effects the bass and nothing more than an EQ cant handle.


So 4" is what you suggest. Thanks.


2 subs on the front wall and 2 subs on the rear wall for now. Am going to build columns big enough to house 12-16 10" or 12" drivers on the ends of the two rows of seating. But for now just going with two 21's up front and 2 in the rear.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Brad Horstkotte /forum/post/19526209


Did you see this thread (perhaps the one referred to earlier)?

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1280395


Oh yeah. I think I've read every thread on this forum that is returned thru the search engine.


I just was wanting some of the DIYers advice since they seem to be more on the technical side of things.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by audiovideoholic /forum/post/19524838


Yeah I already have. He said the wall barely effects the bass and nothing more than an EQ cant handle.


So 4" is what you suggest. Thanks.


2 subs on the front wall and 2 subs on the rear wall for now. Am going to build columns big enough to house 12-16 10" or 12" drivers on the ends of the two rows of seating. But for now just going with two 21's up front and 2 in the rear.

It will effect the bass by simply boosting it. He is right to say EQing can handle it .


Yes, 4" thick wall treatments will absorb a good amount of reflections helping you.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by mjg100 /forum/post/19527072


That is the thread. Thanks for searching it out, since I was too lazy to do so.

That thread basically said that we should leave baffle walls to the experts. I always wanted a baffle wall myself which would have given me a easy way to attach my screen.
 
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