[KennyG]

This Barco I'm setting up seems to have a linearity problem with the blue gun. I have to adjust the Convergence on both sides almost to the max...inward on the right, and outward on the left...is there a linearity adjustment pot on this 1209?


Scratchin' my head, Kenny

 

[Energeezer]

Kenny

It is my experience with Barco that the best way to set them up is to center the raster and image on all three tubes. Then bring up a center cross and swing the red and blue to align on the green.

There are some trimpots on the 808 and 800 series which I use for centering the rasters while leaving the digital adj at 50.

I think your problem is unrelated however and am not aware of any linerity adj pots. Of course I do not need to ask you about your mechanical setup right?

Ask Curt. He is the Barco master.

 

[KennyG]

Yes, it is mechanically converged, everything is centered fine...and the red is good. The only problem is the blue's horizontal linearity...it's converged in the center of the screen, but way off both right and left of center.

I do have it converged, but at an adjustment point of 96 on the right, and 6 on the left, with 50 as the null point, this doesn't seem good.

When Curt has time he may see this, but I don't see where this Barco has any type of H-linearity adjustments...where's an NEC when you need one!

 

[Cousin.It]

Barco's have a horizontal linearity adjustment on their horizontal deflection board, but it affects all three colors at once so it won't help your situation.


I'm not sure how much slack there is in the deflection coil cables, but I would see if there's enough such that you could swap the blue and green connectors on the Deflection Swithing Module and then see if the problem stays with blue or moves to green. I'm not sure which way I would bet on the outcome.


Mark

 

[Energeezer]

Kenny

If you have it converged I would not worry too much. Every Barco I have had through here has had some of the settings "high." I do not think they have been to the extent you describe and in my case it has never caused a problem with stability.

I think all you can do is fool around with the horiz size on the blue as well as the raster centering and try to make the best of it. If it is converged and stable then it should be OK.

You are the first person I have heard wishing for the NEC setup over any other brand LOL. Having set up both myself several times I like the versatility of the NEC but I'll take the simplicity of the Barco any day.

Steve

 

[kal]

Welcome to Barco's infamous (very common) horiz. linearity problem Kenny!


It's a common problem - green's horiz linearity is ok from from left right, while red the red grids go wide to narrow, and the blue grids go in the opposite direction (narrow to wide).


... and there's only one global horiz. linearity menu control and pot. @#$&@%! They really should have made 3 separate linearity controls.


There's a few ways to help a bit:


With zone convergence zero'ed play with the the blue horiz width a bit making sure that the overshoot on one side equals the undershoot on the other (you probably already knew this as it's fairly obvious)


Use zone convergence a bit more then usual on the grids 1 and 2 zones to the left and right of the center zone (which incidently controls static conv) because changes to the zones around the center have a huge effect to the outermost zones. Example: Small horiz changes in the zone exactly to the left of center will have a huge effect on the horiz in the zone all the way on the left edge. One click on the zone close to center probably equal 5-6 clicks on the outside zone.


This is useful because one click in the close to center zones may cause very minor (if any) visible changes to the zone itself, while the outermost zone's horiz convergence value may go from very extreme numbers to something more acceptable.


There's two ways to play with the width: The best is to put the elec control to 50 and then use the horiz width coils to get the size right - just make sure when you do this to use a PLASTIC (not metal) screwdriver and make sure AT LEAST ONE of the coils is screwed all the way in. Be careful as the coils are fragile!


Even after doing all this, my left most blue zone's horiz convergence value is at 5/100. They say you should really aim for staying between 30-70 for all zone convergence values. Oh well! It's been stable like this for 2 years now.


The other option is that maybe your 1209's broken... in which case I'd be very happy to take it off yours hands! (I'd love to get my hands a one of those units - if you ever decide to sell it, lemme know!)


Kal

 

[Energeezer]

Kal

You put into words what I was trying to say. I wish I would have known this is common when I had my first couple of Barcos as it caused me to keep checking my mech alignment thinking I must have something wrong.

I used all the workarounds you listed without the benefit of having someone tell me so they are very logical and I'll bet Kenny already has done it.The trial and error process eventually drives you in the correct direction if you have some common CRT install knowlege.

Steve

 

[kal]

Quote:

Originally posted by Energeezer Kal You put into words what I was trying to say. I wish I would have known this is common when I had my first couple of Barcos as it caused me to keep checking my mech alignment thinking I must have something wrong. I used all the workarounds you listed without the benefit of having someone tell me so they are very logical and I'll bet Kenny already has done it.The trial and error process eventually drives you in the correct direction if you have some common CRT install knowlege. Steve

You're right Steve - this one drove me nuts as well... I just couldn't figure what I was doing wrong as many people were saying that if you have convergence zones out of the 30-70 range your mech. setup must be wrong. I'm sorry, but it's not true... !


Kal

 

[HenrikM]

Kenny; Which software version do you have on your 1209 ?


I have 2 x BG1209/2, both from 1997. One of them have software

version 7.34 which has a nice feature called coarse convergence, which allow you to do a coarse convergence adjustment of the sides and top/bottom without affecting the center. Using this I can get most of my convergence settings with in 60/40 and the rest within 70/30. (did it last time about 7 months ago and its still right on.)

 

[stopdog]

Kal,


I would love for you to get your hands on my BG1209 and dial it in correctly. It looks pretty good to me now but I'm sure there's miles of room left for improvement.If you're ever in the So Cal area and have a little extra time please stop on by.


Thanks,

Rod

email [email protected]

 

[Energeezer]

Kal

Since we seem to be on the same page.

I have taken to setting up the barcos a little different than just following the guidesd setup as I explained in my earlier post. I find this results in a more stable convergence and allows me to use max phosfur. When following the guided I would always end up with the image spilling off the side out of the safe zone on the blue and/or red CRT. So by setting each CRT up seperately (not aligning the center crosses) and then swinging the tubes I am able to accomplish this. Of course it means some shuffling the PJ on the front to back unistrut rails to get the optimum distance.

I am confident you have a similar system of setup and my question is this.

After all is set up if you go through the guided setup w/o making any adj when you come to the crt alignment do your crosshairs line up?

My image is perfectly converged in every quadrant but if I go back to the guided I find the crt alignment is off on this one step yet my images are centered on all 3 tubes, max phosfur is used and my convergence is spot on.

Also I agree 100% with the staement that it is almost impossible to get all settins in the 70/30 range. I have set up 4 barcos using different methods ranging from the last one I described to just following the guided and every single time I have had a few high numbers. Yes I have done exhaustive mech setup employing laser levels etc but the end result is always the same. Since on the Barcos each convergence adj effects the next one or 2 over I find the numbers can be reduced somewhat by looking ahead and applying a very slight extra adj on some of the more central zones.

Steve

 

[KennyG]

Thanks guys, the setup seems to be very stable, so I'm not going to worry about it.

Kal, I had done all the steps you recommended...it's just a little scary to see such a huge swing, but each pj has it's own quirks.

 

[kal]

Quote:

Originally posted by Energeezer I have taken to setting up the barcos a little different than just following the guidesd setup as I explained in my earlier post. I find this results in a more stable convergence and allows me to use max phosfur. When following the guided I would always end up with the image spilling off the side out of the safe zone on the blue and/or red CRT. So by setting each CRT up seperately (not aligning the center crosses) and then swinging the tubes I am able to accomplish this. Of course it means some shuffling the PJ on the front to back unistrut rails to get the optimum distance. I am confident you have a similar system of setup and my question is this. After all is set up if you go through the guided setup w/o making any adj when you come to the crt alignment do your crosshairs line up? My image is perfectly converged in every quadrant but if I go back to the guided I find the crt alignment is off on this one step yet my images are centered on all 3 tubes, max phosfur is used and my convergence is spot on.

Steve,


It sounds like you're using Guy Kuo's advanced setup procedure... If I remember correctly it goes something like this: You don't make the crosshairs line up by looking at the setup menu's center crosses and swinging the tubes - doing so doesn't actually center the crosses on the blue & red tubes, instead they're slightly off to the side for each. Guy's method has you instead centering the image EXACTLY on the tube face and then swinging the tubes to match. End result's like you said: Going thru the setup screens will show center crosses that don't line up, but this is the better procedure since half the screen gets exactly half the tube face for both red & blue.


I never did it this way for my Barco as I did the complete setup 2 years ago and in all honesty never bothered to go back and restart everything. Looks fine now and I'm too lazy.


Kal

 

[gerni g.]

hi kal,


take the extra work and perform the guy kuo method. i highly recommend it. last wednesday i setup my pj with new tubes. thanx to cousin.it who sold me a new rgb set for a good price. after burning them in for 100 hours in low level interlaced mode, they went from my backup unit to the living room ceiling.

took every step of the guy kuo method. the overall sharpness is astonishing and the best is the convergence is almost flawless. never had it that good. do have extrem setting on the far left/right too. around 87 and 16. but who cares. the corners are almost 50/50.

with guy kuo´s method all horizontal linearity errors are gone.

what helped alot was the astig done before any geometrie/ convergence.

all was in default setting and just adjusted the h and v size. then set astig and afterwards adjustment of the widthcoils and v-height pots.

the benefit was that all geometric distortions are gone.

for the green geometrie all used was a little bottom and side keystone and a little sidebow. hadn´t had that before.

steve is right about the better phosphor usage. whitnessed that too.

i think the better overall focus is a sideeffect of that.

a good friend of mine, who owns a g70, was astonished about the overall focus when a testgrid is displayed. equal sharpness to all sides.

o.k. i must admit that i have the smallest screen in the world. 55" width isn´t that much.


happy tweaking,


gerni

 

[kal]

*sigh* - yeah Gerni, I really should go through the whole thing and start over.... It just seems that whenever I have enough time to do that, I'd rather just watch a movie or two!


Kal

 

[Energeezer]

Kenny

I'm curious. How does the image from the 1209 compare to your XG?