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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi folks,


I recently purchased a bg600 from Curt Palme. I know that he is quite busy right now so I figured I was better off posing this question here without having to bother him. (Thanks for your help over the phone Curt).


I'm in the process of doing a convergence and have noticed that the blue tube is way off to the right on my screen. Using the normal convergence settings doesn't help to bring it into alignment with the other colours.


Should I be physically adjusting the tube (ie moving it) so that it is in closer alignment to the centre of the screen with the other colours? I don't want to fiddle with something if I'm not supposed to.


Any hints guys?


Thanks!


Gary.
 

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Behind the convergence coard there is a yellow panel with various settings you will need a flat head precision screw driver they are usually metal so for safety wrap the handle in electrical tape. turn your convergence board off. set all your pots to center position again then begin aligning your horizontal red green and blue leaving the yellow safety panel on!

I know these barco's well for convergence so if you need any further assisatance drop me an e-mail.

wayne
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks WJSD, I'll give that a try tonight.


However, I don't remember ever seeing a 'yellow' panel. Could the cover for it be missing? I'll have to ask Curt about that one.


Thanks,


Gary.
 

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The manual should be finished at the copier's tomorrow, and I'll air it out to you ASAP!


Curt
 

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Gary,


dismount the metal (aluminium) panel with all the pots. with the pj turned off disconnect it and completely remove it (the connector is located between 2 tubes). In this conditions, the pj have ZERO convergence adjustments and you can act perfectly with the STATIC convergence, positioning the three rasters at their respective centers.


Act on the rear of the pj, the section with all the boards and the electronics, if your pj missed the yellow upper panel, you've to locate all the trimmers with a user manual (the service manual is not required, since the fact that the user manual shows all the trimmers positions).


Center perfectly the three rasters on the front glass surface of the respective tubes! don't take care about the projected image. Just lower the contrast and look direcly into the lenses. Obtain a perfect alignment of the three rasters on the tube surfaces.


Raise the contrast and project the image EXACTLY at the throw distance that you will keep.


unscrew the upper screws, on the reb and blu tubes/lenses and then act with a perfect center alignment of the three tubes. Both of them has to be superimposed on the green center vertical line. Do not take care about the other lines, just the center vertical line. When you obtain a perfect white line, at least in the center of the screen, you can turn off the pj, re.connect the metal board and remount it.



Romano
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
(Thanks Curt, look forward to seeing that!)


Rorox64,


Thanks for the info! As soon as I receive the manual from Curt I'll give that a whirl. I'm not comfortable touching any pots until I know exactly what they are for and what they do (I've noticed little descriptions for each pot written above them, but they are a little cryptic).


Just out of curiousity, is there anything special that needs to be done to have this unit display in a 16:9 aspect ratio?


Gary.
 

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You just need to "squeeze" vertically the geometry... use an anamorphic pattern (like Video Essentials or AVIA DVD) and measure the 5 circles on the anamorphic pattern, the vertical and horizontal diameters should have the same lenght...


Obviously it will work only with the ANAMORPHIC movies... in the other case, you have to set-up the pj for every different not-anamorphic movie everytime...


the main problem is that if you set-up the pj for the anamorphic geometry, you have to reset everything and start again all the set-up task from scratch, if you want to watch a normal 4/3 movie... :(


It's the main problem of all the analogic pjs (no memories...)


more than a year ago, I tried to connect a "flat cable" to 6 pots, inside a BD600, in order to connect 6 different switchers with an array of pots, outside the cabinet. It worked, and I was able to set-up 4 different geometries (selected just acting on the switchers), but the solution introduced a lot of image noises (taking apart 2 full working days!)



Romano
 

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Does the BG 800 have the same pots? I've been trying to get my projector setup and it sounds like those pots would come in handy :D

My BG800 thread
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Rorox64,


I figured as such. I assume then that I'm probably better off to leave it in its standard configuration and just live with the bars on the top and bottom part of the screen. :)


Most DVD's I watch are in Wide screen format, but I don't know if I want to deal with the hassel of having to do a reconvergence everytime I watch a normal 4:3 ratio movie.


Thanks!


Gary.
 

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You don't have to reconverge when you switch between 16:9 and 4:3. You just have to adjust the vertical amplitude pot to 'squeeze' the pic in 16:9 mode...and unsqueeze in 4:3. I've been watching anamorphic films recently on my BD600 and truly you can see the resolution difference (esp eliminating the letterboxing downconversion artifacts.) Though I did notice..that at the top of the screen the first 10-20 lines seem to be out of sync (shimmering/slanting.) Not sure if this is a problem with my dvd player, line doubler, or projector.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Derek,


Well that doesn't sound too difficult. The majority, I'd say 90% of my dvds are in widescreen format so I'll definitely go that route.


Just picked up the star wars dvd last week so I think I'll use the widescreen setup screen (from the THX optimizer menu) to set this puppy up. :D


Gary.
 

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Derek is right! but i wouldn't ever re-adjust it for 4:3,you can still watch it with the bars on the sides instead on 4:3 movies,if you watch tv though it will be stretched sideways.no re-converging is neccessary-on some DVD players there are zoom features so you can blow up those non-anamorphic movies to fill your screen but you will lose some of the picture.

here is my setup using a 4'x8' screen set to 1.85:1 my screen is painted black above and below the screen so you don't see black bars at all-if the movie is 2.35:1 then you see the bars-studio standard is 1.85:1!
http://members.home.net/wjsd/www/screen_homepage.html
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Nice screen WJSD! Looks great. I'm too, am going to make my own screen when the time comes. :)



Next question,


I'm trying to adjust the horizontal shift on each colour tube so that I have a perfectly centred image, but the hshift pots don't seem to do anything. The vertical shift pots work fine...does anyone know why this would be? I've disconnected the convergence board as instructed in the manual that I have but that doesn't seem to make a difference.


Any ideas anyone?


Gary: confused:
 

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Sometimes it's due to the phase of the input signal shifting way off to one side. Is the convergence grid shifted too or just the actual signal/pix?


Also, you know those H shift blue pots are multiturn, right? 10 turns in total, I think.


Make sure that H shift board is fully plugged in too. they never fail, but I have spares just in case.


Curt
 

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If your h shift adjustments are not working at all in either direction,then you have a fuse out! I can't remember which one it is but Curt will know,but i would check that. sometimes if your convergence adjustments are way off fuses go.

Wayne

Also chuck williams will also know.
 

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No H Shift is because of blown fuses F5 and F6 on the Switch Mode Power Supply board. These fuses are on a small piggyback board with two other fuses.


Chuck
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Checked out those fuses guys, but they look fine to me. I've even tried reseating the board but to no avail.


Also, the coils for adjusting horizontal width don't work as well...


Gary.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Checked out those fuses guys, but they look fine to me. I've even tried reseating the board but to no avail.


Also, the coils for adjusting horizontal width don't work as well...


Gary.
 

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Did you check those fuses with a meter?


If so, then I'll send you a new H board. Can you email me the 761XXX number off it?

Thanks!

Curt
 
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