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Thanks to all for helping me get HDMI to my Barco Data 801s it's working great, now I'd like to tweak it some. My first question is since this is a modular unit what cards if any can I remove and still have it work? I'm only using port 3. I'm thinking that removing inputs and such would reduce power consumption, heat, unnecessary load etc... Secondly I would like to mod or upgrade the fans to more cfm and less noise.
 

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We run a special mod business for barco and specialize in barco updates. Port 3 is the worst port on barco to use and will destroy your image. Its a very old card that was used with the old switcher and it goes though 3 amp circuits in the projector .... your image looks like.

http://www.eisemann-theater.com/inde...page#DVIDirect


If you don't want to purchase one of our mod sets for the 801 or get one of our internal HDMI cards you should always use port 5 . It will produce a better picture. So take your external decoder and then break it out to port 5. Then you can remove port 3 and save some heat / power.


PS. Make sure you replace all the input caps on the switcher card. They are sure to be bad. Replace with a high grade BP type 10uf 50V. This will give you a much better image on port 5. Also re-solder the transformer on the SMPS if not it will burn your tubes. One other item on that unit is to replace the SCR main drivers on the neck card they get leaky and cause a bad image. Replace with a new type with better specs.


Greg

www.eisemann-theater.com
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by modelaratrod /forum/post/20861793


My first question is since this is a modular unit what cards if any can I remove and still have it work? I'm only using port 3. I'm thinking that removing inputs and such would reduce power consumption, heat, unnecessary load etc...

Port3 board and backlit remote is only boards that can be removed from 801s, still keeping it functional. Because you use port3, leave it there.


Quote:
Originally Posted by modelaratrod /forum/post/20861793


Secondly I would like to mod or upgrade the fans to more cfm and less noise.

Those two 120mm NMB fans (80CFM, 3.5 mmH2O and 35 db) already have good cfm-noise ratio, that is pretty much impossible to beat with cheap computer fans. Those just dont have enough air flow. If your fans have bearing problems, noise level is ofcource higher than it should. Removing backlit remote also helps little to noise, because it's hiding half of the fans.


G90 fans (Japan servo SCNDM12D4) have about same air flow and little better pressure and 5 db less noise. Those are 38 mm thick (NMB's are 25 mm), but it's possible to get those fit in there.
http://www.japanservo.co.jp/digital/.../pdf/SCNDM.pdf


One possibility is using 5-10 ohm resistor or zener diode in series with the fan to drop voltage about 1-1.5V compared to original. That ofcource drops airflow. I only lost one output amp during those two years I used dropped voltage.
 

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So, you're asking Greg to post pictures of the mods that he's taken dozens of hours to come up with? Not going to happen I'm afraid. Why would he give out his R&D developments for free?


Instead, do a search here in the archives about his mods, they've been discussed on a number of threads, that should give you the information you're looking for.
 

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There's a difference though between someone like Greg and myself and a few others that make their living doing CRT work and mods, and the CRT end user that likes to tweak.


It's like going to a mechanic and asking him how to tune up a classic car, and to provide you with the techniques and methods he's developed over the years to tweak out that carb. A fellow enthusiast might assist, but the mechanic that specializes in classic cars won't give you that info.


By asking Greg to post some pictures of his mods, if you have any electronics knowledge, there's probably a reasonable chance that you'd copy a good part of what he's developed.


Anyways, you either understand that, or you don't, so I'll leave it at that. Greg can chime in if he wants.
 
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