[RobertV]

Hey folks,

I have tried to search here and at TAWForum for an answer...no luck.

Here is my setup: Panasonic DVD-A 110 to DVDO iScan V2 to Barco Graphics 801s to DaLite 106" 16:9 screen. I have done all the tweaking for a great picture, but I'm at a loss when it comes to how to configure the projector for 16:9 properly. When I use the current memory block, most of the widescreen dvd's are in letter box format with a black band at the top and bottom, but some are displayed as full screen (the Mummy Returns is one example.) Shouldn't I be able to display all or most of the letterbox/wide screen aspect ratios full screen on a 16:9 with no black bars? Am I doing something wrong? Do I need to use another memory block for the widescreen dvd's? I thought that if I configured another memory block for a certain wide screen aspect ratio to fill the whole screen it would either make the image look elongated or I would be cutting off some of the sides to make it fit? Can anyone point me in the right direction?

THX for helping out a newbe

Robert VanDerVeer

 

[wireburn]

Robert-


While I'm not familiar with the iScan, I can tell you that the problem you're seeing is probably related to Anamorphic enhancement. Many DVD's have this feature which increases resolution for people with higher resolution displays (like yours).


Every input on your Barco (I assume you're using input 5) has two memories per unique scan rate. Since there is only one selection for scan rate coming out of the iScan (I think), you get a whopping 2 memories. No big deal, we can handle that.


Here is how I would do it. Set your DVD player to output 16:9 by default. If you hooked it up to a standard TV set in this mode and pop in an Anamorphic DVD everything will look tall and skinny. On your Barco, you decrease the V size to nearly 0 to make this image look normal. Now do your geometry and convergence. When you're done, press 95 on the Barco remote. Everything should get tall and skinny again. Put in a full-screen DVD and adjust your H size to near 0. You will have a 4x3 image within 16x9. Adjust your geometry and convergence.


The hard part is displaying non-anamorphic "letterbox" DVD's. Your iScan may have a setting to deal with this problem. What you'll get if you don't adjust the iScan is a full frame letterbox within the 16x9 area: a sure tube-burner. Your iScan may have a setting that "stretches" the letterbox image to simulate the anamorphic mode.


Good luck!


-Mike

 

[RobertV]

THX for your reply Mike!!

The iScan only has what they call a squeeze mode to display the full screen sources in 4:3 mode with gray or black bars in the 16:9 screen. I don't know of a setting for the non-anamorphic letter box dvd's. The iScan is an inexpensive ($600) line doubler, some day I'll upgrade, I hope. Speaking of that, what would you suggest I upgrade to under $5K or so?

With no known setting to "strech" the image and your comment about a sure tube-burner, I should be happy viewing the letter box dvd's with black bars top & bottom right? Could you explain why it would be a sure tube-burner?

I think I have the projector properly configured for the non-anamorphic dvd's and full screen on input 5, so I'll try the anamorphic adjustments on 95 or I'll try to copy the memory block from 5 to 95 first and then configure 5 for anamorphic if I understand the memory block thing correctly.

TIA

Robert

 

[wireburn]

OK, if I get you correctly you are headed in the right direction. All you should have to do is adjust the V size down for 95 to get anamporphics to display correctly.


The sure tube burn comment was about what can happen if you try to disply a letterboxed image in your 4x3 mode. "Windowboxed" is what we call it. With 16x9 you are already going to burn in your tubes in the middle, since CRTs are 4x3 natively. This isn't that big a deal if you don't intend to resell the machine or switch to 4x3 any time soon, but if you watch a lot of 4x3 material in your 16x9 area, the only part of the CRT you're using is less than 50% of the total available. This is not so bad if your scaler outputs gray bars (sounds like it does).


As far as a better scaler for under $5k, many people like the Rock+ by TAW. User friendly and at the same time incredibly versatile. If you have computer saavy, you can get much of the same fuctionality with the right hardware and software. Check out the HTPC forum here on AVS for more info.


-Mike