AVS Forum banner
Status
Not open for further replies.
1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
538 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just got this beasty home and stayed up late trying to get the basic setup done and am left with 2 questions:


1. In the installation setup I am supposed to physically line up the red on green and blue on green lenses by loosening adjustment nuts and shifting the lenses until I achieve vertical and horizontal alignment. This is not a problem for the blue on green but the red on green will not seem to budge any way whatsoever to get the box vertically centered. I have reread and looked over the red lens assembly and while it seems to have some allowance to move the lens assembly vertically, I have gotten no-joy from repeated attempts. Does this indicate a problem with the red assembly? Or is it a problem with me?:confused:


2. I have found some links that refer to adjustment software for this model that allows adjustments through the computer. That sounds like a MUCH better way to do the multiple fine tuning adjustments vs. using the remote. Unfortunately I have been unable to find any direct links to the software. Any Barco owners out there that can provide me with a copy? Or is this something I have to buy from Barco?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,406 Posts
There are a couple pots INSIDE the BG801 that control the vertilcal positioning for the Crosshair. One for the Red and the other one for the Blue. Maybe someone with a bit more knowledge can chime in.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
968 Posts
The vertical centering isn't the main concern in my mind. If its off it might just be because you didn't really get the raster vertically centered in the previous step. Mechanically there isn't much up/down play in the mount so it seems somewhat obvious to me that left/right is the primary adjustment.


I use the internal POTs to adjust the red/blue to match green with their vertical raster settings adjusted to '50', but I do that from the convergence menu while on the center zone/grid.


On the Barco software, there's a free version available on the Barco web site but I'd recommend using a wireless remote. I consider this to be my most efficient tool. The few times I tried the control software it didn't impress me that much. When you're doing convergence and you want to walk right up to the screen to tweak it as close as you can a remote in hand is best.


Mark
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
538 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I will ponder the whole computer use-age thing a bit further.


After doing as much searching as I can about initial setups for CRT's on this forum I am left with a couple more questions:


1. When setting the raster on the tubes, wouldn't it be easier to center if one took the lenses off to perform this? I find it very disorienting trying to look at the image "back-wards" through the lens.


2. I removed the lens from my Blue CRT since the seller mentioned it was starting to dim. I was expecting to find a nasty brown burn-spot on it but was surprised to see it doesn't have much burn at all to it. As a matter of fact it didn't look burned at all when the lens first came off. But after staring at if for awhile and at different angles of light I can detect some burn-in on the tube. Which leads to this pondering: If the burn image is slightly off-center, would I be better served to leave the raster setting where it is? It is not that far off and I am wondering if the "Burn borders" would stand out once I centered the raster on the tube face. Or am I saving the convergence boards/controls from overworking and burning out by just getting the image mechanically centered and then doing the final adjustment electronically.


Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
538 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ok, slight panic is setting in. I started the installation setup, removed the lens and went to my Raster Centering. To my horror ALL the images are not just beyond the "forbidden zone", they are off the sides of the freakin CRT FACE!! I quickly backed out of the adjustment menu and shut down the projector.


I am going to dig deeper into the service/installation, and owners manual and see if their is some sort of (Mechanical) initial adjustment that involves a POT switch, or something that allows me to squeeze the image back into the center of the CRT face. The top and bottom is fine.


If anyone has any inside info on where to find this I would gladly be willing to try that. Until then, I be reading,,,,,,,,,


Rick
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
538 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks for the reply Mark. I disconnected all the video sources and turned the projector back on. Same thing, the installation grids were all spilling over the edges. Trying to center it would involve going back and forth counting how many grids were over the edge. In fact when I tried going into the menus and squeeze the image inside the raster area I am running out of room on the adjustment and am still left with stuff too close if not over the sides.


Also I must say I may have fubar'ed the thing when (I Think) I inadvertently deleted all the memory blocks in the projector. I am guessing I did that since the timer is now reading all zeros.


So far I am not coming up with any way to squeeze the horizontal aspects of the raster by mechanical means. But I will (Now) continue reading.


Damn my inability to RTFM!!!!


Rick
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,606 Posts
Rick, you wanted to delete all blocks before doing an install. This allows the projector memory to be reset to factory settings.


The problem arises on used CRTs when the original owner tweaked the pots during install, and the new values aren't correct for your installation. You'll have to correct the pots during install so they are right for your needs.


Check Cousin.It's reference post about raster width on the 808, like he said, it might be the same on the 800. This should correct the raster being too large vertically and horizontally during setup.


And like Cousin.It pointed out, there is no need to panic about the image being over the safe zone during setup. Just don't leave it like that for more than 10-15 minutes at a time, and most certainly don't walk away from the projector when it is like that. Being over the safe zone only causes failure after prolonged exposure, as the failure is relating to heating on surfaces which are not designed to take the heat. (Some think a short may also be possible, but if it is you would have already lost the tube by now. So its just a heat buildup issue.)


Getting the raster centered is critical. Usually I line up red and blue using the gun assembly mechanical shift, and only worry about the left/right alignment using the crosshair. There is no vertical adjustment in the gun assembly, but there is a little play vertically, which is why it seems like that is the case. (BTW, my 808 has more vertical play in the blue assembly than the red too.) If the crosshair is off vertically, you can try and correct it by going back to raster centering, shifting the raster a little, then moving foward again. Keeps from screwing with a pot. (pun intended), and lets you align your red and blue rasters to the green raster before you start convergence. This is assuming your green was well centered to begin with.


Guy Kuo's Holy Focus post has some excellent directions on setup, as has been pointed out. One of them is to do mechanical gun assembly aim using a full white image as it is easier to line up three big boxes to make white than it is to line up a pair of tiny crosshairs.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
538 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks for the reply Spearce. I reread Cousin.Its post and tried the Random Access trick of shrinking the Horizontal size and then going back into the install menu to do the raster centering. The problem is even with the Horizontal size pinned to the smallest setting I still have the raster grid spilling over onto the sides. And that is what is giving me concern. I could understand if I had left the Horizontal sizing comtrols set to maximum. But setting them to the minimum still has the grid spilling over?


More reading coming. And again thanks to all who have responded to my questions.


Rick


PS: It is still fun.
 

·
Registered
5.2.0 Sony VPL-VW95ES, AT Screen, DIY THX-650, B&W 601S2, Fi IB, Integra 3.4, Buckeye 4x, Crest 8200
Joined
·
1,463 Posts
Rick,


Don't worry about the internal grid spilling over. Get a source white field up there and start over with your geometry/convergence.


-Mike
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top