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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i have a semi-finished basement (needs new carpet)


one of the basement walls is exposed. i want to hang drywall to make it more cozy looking. can i get away with framing 1"x2"s or 2"x2"s--or do i need to just go ahead and do the framing with 2"x4"s? i don't want to eat up space in the room. 4" seems like it wouldn't be a lot, but add drywall, etc, the quickly adds up.


good ideas? bad ideas? any ideas?
 

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I'm in the process of remodeling my basement with two walls of exposed cinderblock, already painted white, but very uninviting. I suggest using 2x2, or in my case, I'm ripping 2x4s, so they are slightly larger than a 2x2. If you use 2x2, make sure you're screwing them into the webbing of the block. That is, the screws should be set into the solid part of the block, not in between where there is a void. This will provide a much stronger anchor.


I'll be using 3/4 inch solid foam board insulation in between the studs, then a gap, then using Reflectix Insulation (available at Lowes), then 1/2 inch drywall. My walls face a busy street so hopefully this will provide good insulation and sound deadening. Check local building codes, you may also need a vapor barrier.


Hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by timmy_mpls /forum/post/0


be carefull cause it'll be tougher to put outlets on a skinny wall.

wow...i didn't even think of that part of the project! is there a shallow mount electrical outlet box?
 

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I dunno, but I ran into the exact situation at a friends house last weekend. He had 2x2's with skinny insulation. I dont know about shallow mount boxes, but the next option is a surface mounted box after you install drywall.
 

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I've only seen standard sizes and deep box versions. Maybe there is an electrician lurking. You could always take a trip down to HD or Lowes to see what they have.


Quote:
Originally Posted by directory /forum/post/0


wow...i didn't even think of that part of the project! is there a shallow mount electrical outlet box?
 

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if 4" doesn't seem like much, just do it. A 2x4 is really 1.5x3.5, then add .5 drywall, and you have 4 inches. Maybe a little more if you want double drywall, or some space from the wood to the basement wall.
 

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electrical is definitely a problem with 2x2 walls. Usually you will need wide skinny boxes with a mud ring in order to meet box fill requirements. In addition, since the romex will be so close to the drywall, you need protective rigid conduit connecting the boxes as well.


I've done it both ways, and 2x4 is definitely the way to go if you can.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by lakkdainen /forum/post/0


electrical is definitely a problem with 2x2 walls. Usually you will need wide skinny boxes with a mud ring in order to meet box fill requirements. In addition, since the romex will be so close to the drywall, you need protective rigid conduit connecting the boxes as well.


I've done it both ways, and 2x4 is definitely the way to go if you can.

If you need to install dimmer switches for lighting in this wall, it may be hard to find any that will fit in shallow boxes. I think standard outlets and toggle switches will fit OK in shallow boxes. Low voltage connections (speaker terminals, phone, CATV etc.) don't need boxes.


How about using 2x3 framing? Saves about an inch of living space over 2x4, and provides sufficient space in the wall for standard electrical boxes. Also enough space for fiberglass insulation, if needed. I ran the romex thru the studs without conduit, but used a metal nailing plate at each stud crossing. This is required by the National Electrical Code.


The only downside with 2x3 framing is that if your bottom plate has to be pressure-treated wood (as is usually required by building codes), PT wood isn't available in 2x3 sizes, so you have to rip down some PT 2x4's.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
i think i'll just do it right the first time. thanks for the help! 2x4's it is!


thanks!
 
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