AVS Forum banner
1 - 20 of 61 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
14,890 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So here are my specs:


-100% light control

-wiring in this weekend then black drop ceiling tile in afterwards (dimmable can lights)

-Dark merlot walls next

-More than likely purchasing the 8700UB or if funds are lacking the 8350

---Mounting at about 12 feet with a viewing distance of around 11

---Look at between 110 to 100 inch screen

-This will be a dedicated HT room


Ive read into the maxx stuff a bit and dont really want to get into mixing the paint although if it the best option for me, im glad to do it. Ive also looked at the screen goo system and just wanted some of the differences.


I was originally looking at going straight onto the wall however there is existing paint on it, previous owner had a painting up there and I would have to spackle two decent sized holes and am afraid of not being able to get the surface to match up well. any tips or should I just go with a substrate?


I will be using the screen for everything but with 100% dimmable and controlled light, im willing to sacrifice a little of wash during football games and whatnot. If I were to rank importance I would say:


1) BD in pitch black setting

2)gaming/football in VERY low ambient light properly positioned away from screen (can lights recessed in ceiling tile)

3) General viewing i.e. while throwing darts or playing pinball



I dont think im leaving anything out but should I roll with a matte white? very light grey? screen goo, maxx? something else?!?! I looked back at some similar threads but want to make sure I have the most timely info and best match for the PJ. Thanks in advance!!
 

·
DIY Granddad (w/help)
Joined
·
24,837 Posts

Quote:
Originally Posted by beastaudio /forum/post/19579175


So here are my specs:


-100% light control

-wiring in this weekend then black drop ceiling tile in afterwards (dimmable can lights)

-Dark merlot walls next

-More than likely purchasing the 8700UB or if funds are lacking the 8350

---Mounting at about 12 feet with a viewing distance of around 11

---Look at between 110 to 100 inch screen

-This will be a dedicated HT room


Ive read into the maxx stuff a bit and dont really want to get into mixing the paint although if it the best option for me, im glad to do it. Ive also looked at the screen goo system and just wanted some of the differences.


I dont think im leaving anything out but should I roll with a matte white? very light grey? screen goo, maxx? something else?!?! I looked back at some similar threads but want to make sure I have the most timely info and best match for the PJ. Thanks in advance!!

RS-MaxxMudd LL is ideal for you, and it's a no brainer / worth the effort Mix. It rolls on with at least some care in the rolling.


It's a 1.3+ gain "High Contrast" surface that looks to be almost white, but has significant amounts of both Silver Metallic & Pearl elements.


It's about a $60.00 upshot, compared to a $300.00 Goo shot in the a**.


Substrate-wise, Sintra is best if the screen is to be 100" +. 98" or less, Thrifty White Hardboard is all one really needs.


Best to make a decision and go for it. Too much waiting and indecision can make you go crazy. It's all good...with a 8350. But if you want excellent, results that exceed expectations....? Take a step into the "Mudd".
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
14,890 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
sounds great, hadn't really priced the two yet just read up so thats certainly a significant cost difference that will skew me away from the Goo. although this particular formula is "rollable" I have a friend that owns a sprayer I can get my hands on, so I assume I would want to do that?


whats best to prime the sintra with and a ballpark price for something that size? Where would you find it so i can start digging?
 

·
DIY Granddad (w/help)
Joined
·
24,837 Posts

Quote:
Originally Posted by beastaudio /forum/post/19581055


Is the LL going to be ok even with the epson being an "UB" projector?


I'll answer things last to first.


Yes...because the 8700 is "ub" it needs less help with enhancing black levels, leaving the "LL" to help keep gain levels approaching what you'd get if you had a 8350 on a 1.0 gain white screen.


I've used the 8350 primarily on SF 3.0 screens. Quite a few have already done so onto RS-MaxxMudd Std. & LL


///////////////////////////


Yes, many do screw the Sintra directly onto the wall, allowing for a "cut size" that has 2" of border surounding the actual Screen area. Then Trim (usually 3.25" Velvet wrapped MDF Base) is overlaid onto the Border and afixed using 1.5" Finish Nail that are set below the Velvet.


You can glue it to the wall using Re-positional Liquid Nails, and by doing so maintain a full 60" height. Then you instead "Butt" the edges of the wrapped Trim against the outside edges of the Sintra, because the entire sheet IS the screen surface.


Thrifty White is almost always glued to the wall using Liquid Nails (For Project) due to it's usually being just 85" x 48" or less in sizer, and there to, the Trim is Butted against the edges. However when people do not want to semi-permanently attach such a screen, it can also be screwed if that TWH screen has 2" border around it due to being a bit smaller than 98" diagonal.


////////////////////////////


Post up a City & Zip and I can source the nearest Sintra Distributor to your location.


Piedmont Plastics & Laird Plastics are the most likerly sources, with Piedmont usually having more stock and the better prices. GE Polymershapes Dealers are a 3rd choice. I deal with Piedmont almost exclusively and I can get the best prices for you via Proxy request. Glad to help out whenever I can in that respect. Piedmont has branches in Charlotte, Greensboro, and Raleigh, NC. Laird is only in Charlotte
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
14,890 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Im located in WNC, 28804 so it might be going to SC or TN if necessary.


Guess I would be just gluing to the wall in either THW or sintra, seems to be easier to me anyways. Have also considered doing a routed border and building around the screen where it would lock the screen inside the trim, thus being able to remove if necessary for repainting etc. I dont know, we shall see once I get the substrate decided on. I wouldnt be opposed to using the TWH as long as I can keep it at 98" or as close to that as possible.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
14,890 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
If I plan on painting my wall a new color, as well as liquid nailing the screen TO the wall, would you do the screen first or last? I would like to spray the screen once it is up and can tape off to protect the the wall behind as much as possible.


My thoughts are to get the screen up, tape off +2" around it, finish the screen and then remove tape-retape with a plastic sheet over the screen to protect while I spray the rest of the room. that way I will have an unpainted strip around the screen where the trim will go which I can touch up then mount trim! Feel free to poke holes in this plan, just want all my ducks in a row...
 

·
DIY Granddad (w/help)
Joined
·
24,837 Posts

Quote:
Originally Posted by beastaudio /forum/post/19587252


If I plan on painting my wall a new color, as well as liquid nailing the screen TO the wall, would you do the screen first or last? I would like to spray the screen once it is up and can tape off to protect the the wall behind as much as possible.


My thoughts are to get the screen up, tape off +2" around it, finish the screen and then remove tape-retape with a plastic sheet over the screen to protect while I spray the rest of the room. that way I will have an unpainted strip around the screen where the trim will go which I can touch up then mount trim! Feel free to poke holes in this plan, just want all my ducks in a row...

Poke not at this suggestion as it's a good'n


Given the opportunity to do so I would ALWAYS apply the Screen material to the wall then paint it...then cover the Screen and finish out the rest of the Room.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
14,890 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks MM, you have certainly helped me along my way so far. I hav purchased this weekend the Wagner DD and all the necessary paints, plastic, etc. I got a quote from the Greenville peidmont Plastics and they have the sintra in 5x10 in black and white, 3 and 6 mil. I am obviously ruling out the black but all other things considered should I roll with the 3 or 6 mil. the three is obviously cheaper and will be easier to maneuver but is the 6 going to go up better in the long run? 2 mil being only about an 1/8th inch thick, would it be TOO flimsy?


Also, while buying paint, I got the UPW ENAMEL FLAT, but also saw just UPW FLAT, was this the right choice?


I may be a bit of stickler here as well but in the MMAXX thread, it says it asks for pearl metallic #XXXX but that particular number is actually JUST pearl, not pearl metallic. may want to update the list if in fact I got the right stuff. It matched the # in the list, just confused me a little bit.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
14,890 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Also, I got the "project" liquid nails to adhere the screen to the wall. Is this the best to use in this case?


I've got the front channels to wire in and install plates hopefully during the week nights this week and will then hopefully be prepared to pick up the screen this weekend, maybe sooner. gotta load up the dang 20 foot trailer to get it up the hill, I wouldnt want it flopping out of the back of the truck for an hour. although I might lay down some 2x4's and have it on top of those, might work as well.


at 12 foot throw and a 110" screen i will be getting 28 Fl's (assuming the LL MMaxx at 1.4 gain)so I think that should be sufficient for mounting and brightness.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
14,890 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Got my sintra being held at the shop, and cut with a 2" border all around for the frame to mount to. Now just have to scoop it hopefully this weekend. I have my entire old car stereo for sale to try to help with pushing this project along and people need to BUY BUY BUY!!!


When I lay down the coats of LL, would it be advisable to have a fan, at low setting about 12 feet away to aid in the drying process? I am painting inside so it wont be "cold" air, just enough to lightly touch the surface and help in drying the coats faster (and possibly prevent runs)


also, what is the best PJ mount to use with a drop ceiling? I would probably nail a brace in between two floor joists and then mount to that, I wouldnt need more than a foot of drop to clear the ceiling grid. Thanks y'all
 

·
DIY Granddad (w/help)
Joined
·
24,837 Posts

Quote:
Originally Posted by beastaudio /forum/post/19613386


Got my sintra being held at the shop, and cut with a 2" border all around for the frame to mount to. Now just have to scoop it hopefully this weekend.


When I lay down the coats of LL, would it be advisable to have a fan, at low setting about 12 feet away to aid in the drying process? I am painting inside so it wont be "cold" air, just enough to lightly touch the surface and help in drying the coats faster (and possibly prevent runs)

That's a tricky thing. Unless the Fan is impeccably clean, and there is NO dust/hair in the room, you dast not turn the Fan on until the surface has lost all "Wet Sheen" and you can lightly touch the surface without leaving any smudge..


Heat is your friend.....using a Electric Space heater (I use Propane) to raise the Room Temp up into the 80's is what really helps get the surface to evaporate out all the water content. And the warmer the surface is to be painted, the quicker the paint will "tack".


I use a Fan whenever I have to really accelerate dry times....I use heat virtually every time no matter what.

To give you a idea of how using both can decrease Drying times, I just squirted a screen yesterday in a unheated Garage environment with outdoor Temps in the 30s. I used a small 60/80/100K BTU Forced Air Propane Heater to heat that Garage to the point I could'a painted nekked, turned it off...sprayed.....less than 15 minutes later w/NO FAN the surface had no sheen. I turned the heat back on (...directing the air away from the Screen...) and in another 15 minutes I could spray the next coat.


It took me just over two Hours to spray that screen.. To rapid Cure it, after I was done and the Screen surface was not at all sticky, I left the Heat going with the air directed in "somewhat" toward the Screen for 1 Hour. I hung that Puppy the next AM. Soooo nice.


Quote:
also, what is the best PJ mount to use with a drop ceiling? I would probably nail a brace in between two floor joists and then mount to that, I wouldnt need more than a foot of drop to clear the ceiling grid. Thanks y'all

Lots to choose from, it's just not everything looks as good or works well with passing something through a surface.


My choice 99% of the time will always be the Chief RPA "Dedicated" Mount, combined with a Peerless "Round" Ceiling Plate.


In your instance, your mount the Ceiling Plate to the underside of the Plywood "Bracer" that spans the Ceiling Joists. The Plate has a 1-1/2" Threaded Hole that accepts a Threaded Metal or PVC Pipe (w/Threaded Coupling) than allows you to make a super tight round hole through Drop Tiles or Drywall*. The other end of the equation...the Mount itself, also has a 1-1/2" threaded opening, so you just screw that bugger on. The Dedicated PJ Plate has six posts w/Knurled Screw Knobs so you then just slide the PJ onto the Mount and tighten it down.


Perhaps best of all, the 1-1/2" Drop Tube allows you to route the Power Cord and HDMI invisibly down the center of the Pipe.

*In the next 48 hours I will have two more PJs using the Chief/Peerless mounting Combo going up, with the Drop Pipes coming down through Drywall Ceilings. Ain't nothin' looks cleaner, neater, or more professional than a smooth pipe coming down out of a flat surface.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
14,890 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Ill def give that a look!! Thanks MM. once I get the projector I am thinkin I might be able to shelf mount in the corner of the room as well but I want to make sure the combination of the vert and Horiz. lens shift will allow me to do so.


Im also now looking into the the JVC hd250 so the recommendation for the the LL mix would still be advisable, might have a good deal on one of them
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
14,890 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
And just since I like to obviously cover all the bases, plus some additional ones I manage to pull out of storage, I was looking at the the SilverFire thread and was curious if I were to take it to the next level, what is the mix given my same situation that I would use? and what would the benefits be over the Maxx LL formula? Im assuming I would go for the High Gain? If I'm doing it up, I am happy to go the extra mile. Now that ive jumped in, might was well go scuba diving
 

·
DIY Granddad (w/help)
Joined
·
24,837 Posts

Quote:
Originally Posted by beastaudio /forum/post/19621643


And just since I like to obviously cover all the bases, plus some additional ones I manage to pull out of storage, I was looking at the the SilverFire thread and was curious if I were to take it to the next level, what is the mix given my same situation that I would use? and what would the benefits be over the Maxx LL formula? Im assuming I would go for the High Gain? If I'm doing it up, I am happy to go the extra mile. Now that ive jumped in, might was well go scuba diving

Just don't pull a "Steve Irwin" on us.
(RIP)


If your spraying I'd go for Silver Fire 2.0. It's still as high gain as RS-MaxxMudd LL but over 2x more effective dealing with ambient light as well as boosting perceived "native" contrast without crushing colors or whites underfoot.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
73 Posts
The components mix the same, but you use only 2 oz of the final "color components" mix. Think of it as a base mix (the base & viscosity) with infinite tuning potential (the amount of colorant added) in the 1-4 oz range based on the specific amount added.


I haven't done mine yet but have read a lot and have most of the supplies. I would love to do it this weekend, but tat depends on local art paint availability.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
14,890 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
yea i thought of that while driving down the road just a bit ago with my Big Ole piece of sintra hanging out the back of my truck!!!!!! I plan on starting design of the frame for it this weekend, still not sure what Im doing there, but also set up the paint room, get the ceramic heater out (per MM's suggestion) and get the remainder of the paint to do the SF.


Man, I was about to jump the gun on MMud but I want while Im doing this to get the best possible result and SF really doesnt take much additional effort it seems. Can't wait to see what comes of it!!!!
 
1 - 20 of 61 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top