[BGPGuy]

Well, I picked up a BD800 at an auction and it appears to be in good shape. I read many posts on setup (including Holy Focus!), downloaded the manuals, and followed the guided installation menu on the unit. I cannot get the unit converged/setup. I follow every step and the R&B are way off center from green and each other. The neck adjustments (G2?) are not all the same when the case is pulled off. I do not know how to start with fresh factory settings for both logical and physical adjustments. I am at my wits end and am ready to sell and buy a digital. I want to watch movies, not get a PhD in CRT technology. I was going to buy an NEC, but if the Barco kicks my butt....


Just venting. Reading this forum, I new my first CRT would require some work and a little time/learning/adjustment, but not this much.


I suspect the countless settings and mechanical adjustments being far away from factory defaults may be the culprit. Before I go to digital, is there default setting info for this unit online? The download of the Barco service manual has 3 pages. I read about flashed EPROM settings making the new defaults from existing settings, which is not what I want.


Anybody?


Thanks,

Jason

 

[Andre Sveen]

You have reset the memory.


So I suppose you have an image on green which is readable.


First you go trough the installation menu. There you focus.


Have you done mechanical adjustment the angle on blue and red. You will find four screws which will need loosening, before you can move the red or blue. Three on top. Two of them are easy to find. One of them is mounted to a long rod which goes all the way from the top to bottom, you will see it between the lenses. The last one is at the far side of the chassis at the bottom near the CRT itself. You will need at flat screwdriver for that one.


Loosen those four and the lenses and CRT will slide very easily sideways. It should be enough using one finger to move it. It can be little stuck though the first time you move it.


Then go through the guided setup menu.


Be patient when doing green. It will be your reference.


Now you should be able to a make watch ablepicture.


It can be a little out of focus in the corners or up down, but should watchable.

 

[BGPGuy]

Andre,


Thanks for replying to my whiney plea. So I am not sure what you mean by "You have reset the memory." I simply powered it up against a hanging sheet and went into the setup mode starting with installation. Does this reset the memory to factory defaults?


I loosened the red for red on green then the blue next for blue on green. The blue on green comes pretty close (a hair south would be perfect) and the red on green is vertically perfect but not horizontally aligned. I notice I cannot get change the pitch/vertical movement for horizontal alignment. Should they move horizontal (pitch) with all 4 loose?


The next step takes me to raster centering, which I notice moves left or right only. I center them all. I notice the blue bends on the right at the edge and has a larger area which makes it impossible to keep the top corners of the raster area off the edge. Is this normal for blue?


I then notice at the next step my RGB are all offset from each other on the screen. The remaining installation steps and then guided convergence steps lead me to a point where I can not get internal or external pattern alignment. I know the random access settings are all wacky set to extreme settings. How do I start with at least logical factory defaults? Do I need to give you my serial number to find out what year it is for proper eprom download or is that even necessary?

 

[BGPGuy]

Well, I have reviewed the service manual of the BD808 and I hope it is the same for the BD800. It describes the "set to mid-position", "convergence mid", and "dyn. astigmatism" areas and what they do. I will go through the installation steps after setting the first two, and hopefully it is not password protected. Maybe this will help me. Is this a good course of action or a Barco no-no?

 

[Andre Sveen]

The method to reset the BarcoData 800, service menu, delete all memories. If password protected you can turn the password off by changing the position of DIP switch was it number 5. Pop the hood, look at controle module, you will see a panel with tiny switches, also you should find a place labeled "password" that would be the right switch. You can not miss it.


Since you simply have turn it on you have not reset the memory.


Use the search engine on the forum. There is button called search at of the top of the screen.


There was a user a while ago which did a very good job just asking almost everything you need to know. He took nice pictures too. He had another model than you the 801s, but on basic things it is almost the same.


His name was "sjursen" type in that name im the user field exact name and you have one whole evening to read. Narrows it down to the CRT forum only should do things a little easier.

 

[BGPGuy]

Andre,

Thanks for the pointer! I guess I just required a little more due dilligence. These were some posts of value I had found prior to my desperate plea for help. I think this user name search will bare better fruit. Anyone stumbling on my current post may find these to be worthy bookmarks for their Barco as well. I am off to search a bit more!

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...hreadid=139869
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...rco+AND+manual
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...orphic+squeeze
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...ghlight=raster
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...t=barco+manual

 

[Andre Sveen]

After of this reading you begin to understand what is going on inside.


Now I am going to do things a little trickier for you.


Try to stay between the 30-70 range when doing electronic adjustment. That would give you a more stable picture, because you are not driving the electronics so hard. 50 is mid position so closer to 50 means easier for the machine.


Then do it one time. Reset the memory. Try again. After you have been doing it for three or four times you should have some knowledge of how the different things interact with each other.


Take special attention on horizontal centerline and keystone interact. Using some horisontal centerline should help keeping the keystone use under control.


Don't give up yet.


When you are done you can consider yourself a videophile and you are going to get worse.

 

[clopez]

Hi,

I have BG800 that i played alot with before I moved on to an NEC,


a) Make sure the projector is level. When you increase the angle of the projector it affects how high you can scan before stressing the machine.


b) Do the mechanical set up. The grids generated may be trapezoid at first but the top and buttom on the trapesoid should be straight. if they are not then the coils on each CRT neck (this is not G2 , that can be discussed later) may need to be adjusted (this may kill you if you are not careful).


After you apply the proper keystone adjustment you should have a nice rectangle. The adjustment settings are meant to be touch up not fixing massive un aligned CRTs.


If you cannot CRT to line up there is a pot on a board that will shift the red CRT image and and a pot to shift the blue CRT image. I do not know the technical name for that board so I will leave that up to someone else.


clopez

 

[Gunnar]

In case none of the other threads cover it: There are two small pots with brass heads on the vertical board that adjust vertical shift for red and blue. The pot for red has a red dot on it. The same goes for horizontal shift. You`ll find two pots on the horizontal board (the board with the three raster width coils on it) for horizontal shift for red and blue.


I like to put the electronic settings in the menues to 50%, and center the rasters with the pots. Then fine tune with the menues. I have a few pictures on my page ( http://homefree.sensewave.com/~s173550/ ) that show the pots.


Gunnar

 

[clopez]

Thats the board I was pointing to

I just couldn't find my layout sheet

 

[BGPGuy]

This information is just what the doctor ordered. I spent all afternoon reading all the sjursen questions and answers and feel I am ready to tackle this again. I set the neck coil knobs to neutral (aligned straight up with floor mount) as they were all different. Clopez warning about the trapezoid and the sensitivity of the neck adjustments was read after so I hope I am not breaking this thing.


Gunnar's web page is also extremely helpfull. I like the idea of everything being mechanically neutral and adjusted from there before I start with electronic adjustments. I found doubled and triple washers under optic lens top nuts (floor mount) which appeared random with no washers under bottom nuts in some places. I placed a single washer under each nut and pocketed the rest.


I just came from basement and measured 109" back and performed optical focus and raster centering again. The blue is touching the CRT edges while the others have a space. The raster shape appears a bit trapezoidal as well (imaginatiion?). I will use the adjustments on the Gunnar web site to correct the size difference. I also just set things to mid in the service menu.


My problem right now is I cannot change values in the startup menu off the service menu??? It is stuck in ceiling mode and I want floor mode before putting to much more effort into this. I am going back to the manual....

 

[clopez]

Changing from ceiling mount floor mount (or either way) is NOT done through software menu settings. You need to read the manual on changing the polarities in the CRT.


clopez

 

[BGPGuy]

I found polarities in the BG800 installation manual, thanks!


So I find myself able to center the rasters and the CRTs but unable to get image convergence anywhere but the center using the last methods described. I also find the raster area to expand outside of the face of the CRT on the corners and near or over the edges, with raster pot reduction only giving me apparent bow in on sides. I left all raster POT settings at full clockwise, is this wrong or is bow-in expected? Shouldn't I be able to reduce raster until top corners just touch the sides? If all factory settings are at 50 and rasters are centered, why does image fail to center and suffer such misalignment away from dead center cross hair? Are you sure the R&B H&V pots shift raster and not image?


Well, I think I will wait until I have something other then a sheet to work with (it can't be helping). I bought a cheap ParlandPlastic sheet tonight, but getting a 4:3 image converged to take advantage of the 16:9 width I intend to use it for seems impossible. Maybe people converge on bare wall then squeeze horizontally after convergence to fit the 16:9 screen? Hmmm. Patience young Jedi....

 

[BGPGuy]

I meant squeeze vertically.

 

[BGPGuy]

Ok, I at least figured out my own question on why all digital settings at 50 and centered rasters does not equal convered RGB image. I will run through these exercises a few more times on a smaller size screen for practice and maybe I will stumble on a watchable picture. I will need to go research the neck coil adjustments as I bet they are off somehow as well.


Clopez, if you have any advice on how to set these neck coils, please let me know.

 

[Andre Sveen]

Try turning the ES focus knobs while looking into the lens. If the picture moves sideways or up down your astigmation is wrong.

 

[BGPGuy]

By picture you mean projected image and not raster shape right? Should I adjust this with the internal grid test pattern or a selected source image grid from my avia disc? I assume they should be adjusted immediately after raster center. If I shift my raster later to far left for optimization and then shift image right, will they need to be touched again or is this ES focus good for all raster/image positions once properly set?

 

[Andre Sveen]

When you turn the ES knob back and forth the picture on the face on the should only to from unfocused to focused to unfocused. The picture should not move, if it does it is something wrong with the astigmation.


It do not matter which source you use. Using the internal pattern is very easy.

 

[BGPGuy]

Andre,


Could you re-phrase that? You lost me after "face". When moving the ES knobs, my projected grid image moves. You are saying this is abnormal and ES knobs should only control focus? I should therefore fix my astigmation? How do I fix astigmation?


clopez,

My internal grid is bowed in at the top and bottom. You described this as being evidence that neck adjustment is needed. Are you and Andre in agreement as to what the neck ES knobs are, what they should do when being moved, and how to correct astigmatism?


I was going by this thread to describe the mech adjustments.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...rco+AND+manual

 

[clopez]

Hi BGPguy,

Sorry I have been tied up...


First,

The yoke calibration I was stating as explained ( http://homefree.sensewave.com/~s173550/ ) picture 5, is to make sure that you have straight line at the to and botton of each CRT. Follow the instuctions carefully and remember not to over tighten the clamps when finished.




Second,

Did you set the memory block to mid point. Do this before you do the Installation menu walk through (this is done by selecting the Installation on the menu)


Third

Are you using the installation menu on the the projector walk throgh for

the mechanical setup?


If you are having a bow, I am not sure, just make sure that you are in the installation menu when making these changes.


Finally you do your ES (the knobs turn and also rotate) get them as sharp as you can (small dots).

Remember that 3 things affects your focus

a) The lens

b) The ES knobs on the CRT necks

c) The focus block,


The ES focus rings may move the grids but once the dots are sharp and not blooming then redo the mechanical CRT adjustments again.


After the mechanical set-up is completed

Then feed a signal that you will use to the projector.

Then you do your convergence to that signal (i,e 1280x720 example).

That resolution may cause overlapping.

The guided menu will help you do your convergence.


Do not trust the internal generated grids during convergence. They will appear to be thick but when I converege to the signal (mine was an HTPC pattern generation program) the lines were thin and accurate.


clopez