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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,

New to the forum here. Does anyone have any recommendations for a replacement bulb that is reliable but less than the $250 that BenQ charges? Or a place to get the genuine BenQ bulbs cheaper? I know the DLP chip on this thing is going to crap out soon and I rather not buy a full priced bulb.

TIA
 

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Hello,

New to the forum here. Does anyone have any recommendations for a replacement bulb that is reliable but less than the $250 that BenQ charges? Or a place to get the genuine BenQ bulbs cheaper? I know the DLP chip on this thing is going to crap out soon and I rather not buy a full priced bulb.

TIA
I used this one.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-lis...0?ie=UTF8&condition=all&qid=1503119994&sr=8-2


It lasted about 2500 hours in my W1070 compared to the 4000 hours the original lamp did. It used to be available direct from Amazon and was only $45, but even at $58 + $13 shipping direct from CTLAMP-USA it is not too expensive.
 
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Oh damn that's cheap, did you notice any difference in brightness or overall image quality?
No, but I never had a new Benq genuine lamp to compare it to. It was 20% brighter according to a phone light meter app when new than a genuine lamp with 3000 hours. It was 20% less bright than the new Benq lamp in my HT2050A. I had tried another one from eBay that was actually more expensive and it was noticeably green while the CTLAMP was color correct.
 

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Is that pretty much the only alternative? There's no place to get genuine bulbs at less than $250?
Provantage and B&H Photo were know for carrying genuine lamps for maybe 10% less, but as the projector gets older I'm not sure if that remains true.


There are MANY alternatives. Just do a search for the lamp part# which is 5J.J7L05.001
 

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BenQ+W1080ST LAMP

Hello,

New to the forum [ Does anyone have any recommendations for a replacement bulb that is reliable but less than the $250 that BenQ charges? Or a place to get the genuine BenQ bulbs cheaper? I know the DLP chip on this thing is going to crap out soon and I rather not buy a full priced bulb.

TIA
Hi... please reliable long life bulb here. $50 one may seem attractive, but it will not live out the number of hours. Also, when it goes, it will do that with a bang, frying your ballast in the process.

I am not trying to scare anyone, but saying this based on my experience in the industry.

You may buy the lamp here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Hi... please reliable long life bulb here. $50 one may seem attractive, but it will not live out the number of hours. Also, when it goes, it will do that with a bang, frying your ballast in the process.

I am not trying to scare anyone, but saying this based on my experience in the industry.

You may buy the lamp here.
I appreciate the advice, I like the price, but I wasn't going to go that route simply because I don't trust it. I did see this one though (posted below), and I think I'm going to with it.

I have to ask though, I thought the ballast was encasing the bulb comes in, is that incorrect? And can you please explain the consequence of it frying?

I've been into projectors for about ten years but only recently have I started cracking them open and messing with stuff, so I'd like to learn.


What do you think of these bulbs?

https://www.google.com/shopping/pro...&ved=0ahUKEwjm57OUibjcAhWUecAKHYaKDSAQ8wIIrwI
 

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I appreciate the advice, I like the price, but I wasn't going to go that route simply because I don't trust it. I did see this one though (posted below), and I think I'm going to with it.

I have to ask though, I thought the ballast was encasing the bulb comes in, is that incorrect? And can you please explain the consequence of it frying?

I've been into projectors for about ten years but only recently have I started cracking them open and messing with stuff, so I'd like to learn.


What do you think of these bulbs?

https://www.google.com/shopping/pro...&ved=0ahUKEwjm57OUibjcAhWUecAKHYaKDSAQ8wIIrwI
Good morning and thanks for the humble questions. Bulb is just the bulb without the housing and without connecting plug that connects the bulb to the ballast.

When a bulb is housed and all is secured in a housing, it becomes a lamp.

As for the ballast, this is the electronic board.... hundreds if not thousands of components on i. The ballast manages the current that hits the bulb.

See a basic explanation in this link; https://www.projectorrepair.co.uk/projector-troubleshooting/
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Good morning and thanks for the humble questions. Bulb is just the bulb without the housing and without connecting plug that connects the bulb to the ballast.

When a bulb is housed and all is secured in a housing, it becomes a lamp.

As for the ballast, this is the electronic board.... hundreds if not thousands of components on i. The ballast manages the current that hits the bulb.

See a basic explanation in this link; https://www.projectorrepair.co.uk/projector-troubleshooting/
So you're saying if the bulb pops it can send surge through to the ballast?

So in my time I have had three bulbs pop on me. The first time it happened, I began getting dead pixels maybe a month later, was that from the pop?

Also please let me know what you think of the bulb from pureland, it appears to be trustworthy to me...
 

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So you're saying if the bulb pops it can send surge through to the ballast?

So in my time I have had three bulbs pop on me. The first time it happened, I began getting dead pixels maybe a month later, was that from the pop?

Also please let me know what you think of the bulb from pureland, it appears to be trustworthy to me...
If the rating of a bulb is not exact... , say for instance the original bulb has a rating of 150 Watts, so for brighter image, you decide to use a 180 Watts or higher bulb, yes, the picture will be brighter, but with collateral damages. If a DLP pj, the additional heat, because the intake and exhaust fans are not programmed to cope with it, the heat will burn up the DMD chip and cinderella snow white will appear before the winter time. If LCD machine, the polaroid as well as the LCD panels will be burnt!

Pureland bulb as well as Cleanair and Calmsea... All comes from the same place... China.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
If the rating of a bulb is not exact... , say for instance the original bulb has a rating of 150 Watts, so for brighter image, you decide to use a 180 Watts or higher bulb, yes, the picture will be brighter, but with collateral damages. If a DLP pj, the additional heat, because the intake and exhaust fans are not programmed to cope with it, the heat will burn up the DMD chip and cinderella snow white will appear before the winter time. If LCD machine, the polaroid as well as the LCD panels will be burnt!

Pureland bulb as well as Cleanair and Calmsea... All comes from the same place... China.

So how can I check to make sure it's the same thing? I'm just trying to find something that is quality but won't cost me the 250 that BenQ is asking. Why is being made in China bad and being made in Taiwan good? Forgive me, I'm new to this stuff. What would be helpful is if someone could recommend quality affordable bulbs. I was expecting a little more out of this forum.

I have the W1080ST.

Do you have any suggestions for where to get a good bulb without being gouged?
 
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