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Discussion Starter #1
If I were asked my opinion on the best advice for someone getting into 2.35/CIH this is what I would say:


1. Build a matt white CinemaScope screen , and add 3 or 4 way DIY motorized black velvet covered masking so that you can accomodate any aspect ratio from 1.33 up to about 2.8. Make the top and bottom masks wide enough to totally absorb the top and bottom black bars on 2.35 films.


2. Select a projector that has a minimum of 2X zoom range and locate it at the back of the room. Also make sure the projector has an electronic vertical position menu capability, in addition to the normal manual lens shift function used for initial projector alignment. The Panasonic projectors all have both the 2X zoom and the electronic vertical position control.


3. Use the zoom method. With todays bright superb 1080p projectors and Blu-Ray discs the anamorphic lens has become redundant, and may in fact introduce compromises in image quality such as contrast loss and pin cushion distortion.


4. For CinemaScope use, simply zoom out the (letterboxed) 16:9 picture to accomodate the full width of your scope screen, then use the projectors vertical position menu control on the remote (make sure it has this facility before you buy a projector) to get the bottom of the picture level with the bottom of your screen. If you do not quite have full CIH, you can then also power down the top mask a litle bit to get the top mask to the top of the picture.


5. With this method you will not have to adjust focus or lens shift for any film aspect ratio, and you can switch from 4:3 or 16:9 to 2.35 in about 30 seconds or less.


Using this method you will get very impactive scope presentations which can be brought up very quickly indeed. But you must have excellent masking to totally black out the grey bars.
 

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Discussion Starter #4

Quote:
Originally Posted by Art Sonneborn /forum/post/14343952


Aren't you the guy who said he couldn't see pixel structure at 1x width using zooming ?


Art


Yes. And with the Panasonic projectors you can't. I know high end projector users don't believe that, but it is true.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by taffman /forum/post/14343583


Use the zoom method. With todays bright superb 1080p projectors and Blu-Ray discs the anamorphic lens has become redundant, and may in fact introduce compromises in image quality such as contrast loss and pin cushion distortion.


I've recently seen two different zoomed CIH set ups, one with a large venue 3 chip DLP the other an RS2 set up.


In in each a few things struck me. The first was the time it took to change ARs. One took at least ten minutes to get everything close the other about two minutes. Not a deal breaker but I wouldn't call it elegant. The second was the very coarse looking pixel structure even sitting just over 1.5x width. All lens set ups I've seen pixel visibility wasn't an issue to less than 1x width.
 

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Discussion Starter #7

Quote:
Originally Posted by Art Sonneborn /forum/post/14344559


So your "best advice" should read for your panasonic projector you think zooming is best.


Art

So Art, what is your best advice for someone jumping into 2.35/CIH? Lets hear it.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by taffman /forum/post/14344618


So Art, what is your best advice for someone jumping into 2.35/CIH? Lets hear it.


Pick your poison I say. No doubt both lens and zoom have advantages. I personally preferred more light ,1.3 second AR changes,full use of the panel for significantly less pixel visibility and no black bar light spray. I have 1/2" of pincushion over 14' of width.


I express this as an opinion not as "best", way too many variables to say one is best in every situation IMO.


Art
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by taffman /forum/post/14343583


If I were asked my opinion on the best advice for someone getting into 2.35/CIH this is what I would say:

.

budget/affordable (but still great picture quality) lens based c.i.h. setup:

i'll most likely put a optoma hd70 or the like, together with hometheaterbros.com HE lens.

OR add affordable scaler (dvdo 'edge'?) to my current pj and htb lens.


EITHER way, under $1500!


add 2.35:1 screen, i have audio and sources; should be good to go!
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dennis Erskine /forum/post/14349040


I see. Film's sequential contrast ratio is on the order of 10,000:1. If we get to 100,000:1 I think the MRI and radiology guys would be all over it.

Dennis ,

I got used to high end CRT FP sequential contrast. I'd personally still like to see that in a digital.


Art
 

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Art:

I think we're getting close. We can meet at CEDIA and discuss the project. In one case, the C/R cannot be measured...the rather expensive equipment is not sensitive enough to measure OFF.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by taffman /forum/post/14343583


2. Select a projector that has a minimum of 2X zoom range and locate it at the back of the room.

So with the expection of Panasonic and Epson (both LCD?), how many 1080s actually have a 2x zoom?

Quote:
3. Use the zoom method. With todays bright superb 1080p projectors and Blu-Ray discs the anamorphic lens has become redundant, and may in fact introduce compromises in image quality such as contrast loss and pin cushion distortion.

Clearly (yes pun intended) you have still not seen a good lens yet...


Mark
 
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