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Hi All,


I am sure this has been beaten to death, but here goes:

What is the "best bang-for-the-buck" sound barrier?

My HT is a typical Plaster/Wood/Fiberglass wall construction.

I have one wall leading to an unfinished part of the basement, which has the fiberglass & studs exposed. I want to add some form of sound barrier to the unfinished side. I want to prevent sound form coming into the HT, as there are several noisy things in the unfinished area (Dehumidifier, Sump-Pump, Sewage Ejector Pump, etc...). I am willing to use whatever works best, and I am not concerned about appearance. But I am also looking for something simple, and relatively economical.

Any advice is greatly appreciated.


TIA
 

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I agree studs and drywall are the cheapest stuff in this project. If you really want to beef up the sound resistance of that wall, since it is unfinished on one side you might think about retro fitting a staggered stud wall.


If you rip a 2x4 in half use it for the bottom (pressure treated) and top plate. Insert vertical studs in between the existing studs 1/2 on the existing bottom plate and 1/2 on the new one.


Insulate then hang a couple of layers of drywall. If you can afford it I bet Green Glue would be of benefit for this situation


In addition to the wall you are going to need to think about flanking routes that sound from this room can take. Like up into the space between the ceiling joists and then into the theater. You may need to beef up those between joists spaces as well.
 

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As has been said already, extra sheetrock is the best bang for the buck. Go 5/8" if you can. Close the other side of the wall, and at every layer of sheetrock, new and existing, seal every seam and crack with flexible caulk. If you don't do the latter, your efforts will be largely wasted.


- Terry
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by ccapozzoli /forum/post/0


What is the best flexible caulk to use?? Something like Green glue??

Green Glue is not a caulk. Use any permanently flexible caulk, often labeled "50 year caulk." Water-based is easiest to deal with. It is inexpensive, and you can find it at places such as Home Depot.


- Terry
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Terry Montlick /forum/post/0


As has been said already, extra sheetrock is the best bang for the buck. Go 5/8" if you can. Close the other side of the wall, and at every layer of sheetrock, new and existing, seal every seam and crack with flexible caulk. If you don't do the later, your efforts will be largely wasted.

Do you mean caulk the joints between the sheets of drywall? (Instead of mudding??)
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by mchristopher89 /forum/post/0


Do you mean caulk the joints between the sheets of drywall? (Instead of mudding??)

It is best to fill hidden interior drywall layer seams with flexible acoustic caulk. Don't butt perpendicular drywall sections directly against each other, but leave a gap and fill with acoustical caulk. This allows the intersecting drywall sheets to "float" at the junction. Stagger the seams of multiple layers of drywall. Flexible caulk is preferable over mudding compound as it cannot crack, but you may choose mudding compound for the seams between the outermost exposed layer of drywall for aesthetic reasons.


- Terry
 

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If you are not going to go 2 layers of drywall, would be worthwhile to to use 5/8" drywall and flexible caulk on all the seems? Is using 2 layers of 1/2" w/o the green glue cost effective over just one layer?


I have all my walls filled with fiberglass insulation and will be adding drywall next week. I don't think I wont to do 2 layers but the 5/8" is an option. I am not sure what the cost difference is on 1/2 vs 5/8 though?


Are we saying that all seems should have a gap of say 1/8" and those seems should be caulked with flexible caulk? I would like to do as much as possible without adding 2 layers.


Thanks
 

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I recently was very pleased with using resilient channel and 5/8" drywall on the ceiling of my HT. It is cheaper than double layers of drywall and should work well for what he is trying to accomplish.
 

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I have seen some people post about putting tar paper then plywood down over a concrete floor (in basement). And some only think this is a good idea under the stage.


Would it be better to put green glue under the plywood instead of tar paper??


In any case, I presume the plywood would not touch the walls but would have a small gap that would be caulked.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by ellisz /forum/post/9537247


If you are not going to go 2 layers of drywall, would be worthwhile to to use 5/8" drywall and flexible caulk on all the seems? Is using 2 layers of 1/2" w/o the green glue cost effective over just one layer?


I have all my walls filled with fiberglass insulation and will be adding drywall next week. I don't think I wont to do 2 layers but the 5/8" is an option. I am not sure what the cost difference is on 1/2 vs 5/8 though?


Are we saying that all seems should have a gap of say 1/8" and those seems should be caulked with flexible caulk? I would like to do as much as possible without adding 2 layers.


Thanks

Similar situation here. Seems like going with two layers of 1/2" would be much better than going with a single layer of 5/8". Much thicker and not much more $. Someone who knows much more than I, please chime in.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by jn316 /forum/post/12986390


Similar situation here. Seems like going with two layers of 1/2" would be much better than going with a single layer of 5/8". Much thicker and not much more $. Someone who knows much more than I, please chime in.

Correct. And use flexible caulk at the drywall seams no matter what.


- Terry
 
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