AVS Forum banner

1 - 20 of 87 Posts

·
Banned
Joined
·
29,681 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Does it matter ? What's the best ? Has there ever been a review or test of the various glue options ?


I've use Tightbond , Tightbond II, Tightbond III, gorrilla glue , Elmer's, Elmer's Professional, liquid nails construction adhesive etc...


Beats me what is actually the best though. Figured I would ask. For MDF what is the best to use ?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,371 Posts

I think the two most popular are Titebond II and PL Premium. If you can cut straight pieces then use Titebond II, very easy to cleanup. If your cuts are not so straight then use PL Premium, it will expand to fill the gaps but its a bit messy and can stain your hands. 

You can find various strength tests and reviews on Youtube and the web.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,398 Posts
  • Like
Reactions: Mfusick

·
Banned
Joined
·
29,681 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mrkazador  /t/1525181/best-glue-for-mdf-best-glue-for-diy-speakers-and-subs/0_100#post_24552266


I think the two most popular are Titebond II and PL Premium. If you can cut straight pieces then use Titebond II, very easy to cleanup. If your cuts are not so straight then use PL Premium, it will expand to fill the gaps but its a bit messy and can stain your hands. 

You can find various strength tests and reviews on Youtube and the web.
http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-1390595-10-Ounce-Cartridge-Construction/dp/B001E3VQBE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1396299633&sr=8-1&keywords=pL+premium



This is what your talking about ?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
36 Posts
I too would like to know if there is a difference between Loctite PL Premium and Henkel PL premium. Everyone just refers to it as PL Premium. I have Loctite PL Premium but have never seen the Henkel PL Premium.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,371 Posts

·
Banned
Joined
·
14,420 Posts

Quote:
Originally Posted by ts354  /t/1525181/best-glue-for-mdf-best-glue-for-diy-speakers-and-subs#post_24553056


I too would like to know if there is a difference between Loctite PL Premium and Henkel PL premium. Everyone just refers to it as PL Premium. I have Loctite PL Premium but have never seen the Henkel PL Premium.

if you go to the Henkel PL premium web site:

http://www.henkelna.com/do-it-yourself-335.htm?countryCode=us&BU=cons_crafts&brand=0000000GZP


and click a link you get to:

http://www.loctiteproducts.com/loctite-pl-construction-adhesives-sealants.shtml?utm_source=stickwithpl&utm_medium=Redirect&utm_campaign=301


If you go here:

http://www.henkelna.com/do-it-yourself-335.htm?countryCode=us&BU=cons_crafts&redDotUID=0000000GZI&noCrawl=true


They call Loctite "One of our brands".
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
29,681 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·

·
Banned
Joined
·
29,681 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mrkazador  /t/1525181/best-glue-for-mdf-best-glue-for-diy-speakers-and-subs/0_60#post_24553653


The one you linked to on amazon has the same model # as the one at home depot. Don't know why its yellow and cost twice as much on amazon.

Some specifically say "polyurethane" and some don't - but they look the same. Are they all the same thing ?
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
29,681 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mrkazador  /t/1525181/best-glue-for-mdf-best-glue-for-diy-speakers-and-subs/0_60#post_24553683


I dont know... All I know its called PL Premium and you can pick it up at Lowes or Home Depot.

All this confusion I think I'll stick to Tightbond II
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,824 Posts
If I'm building a box under 24" cubed, then I will use Titebond II because it's bond is as strong as the wood, and it is easy to clean up. Downside is that if I'm working with big panels, it's difficult to get glue smeared on both pieces, get them aligned, clamped, while the glue is still wet. PL Premium is popular with many of us who build big subs because a 3/16" or less bead of PL needs to be applied to only one panel, and the panels can be pressed into place over several minutes while the clamps are placed, screws or brads are placed, panels braced for square. PL expands slightly to seal any small inconsistencies in the joint between panels. I use latex ems gloves to keep my hands clean and calculate my movements carefully to not get that greasy crap everywhere. I wait an hour and use a putty knives with a sharp, square edge to clean up the residual pl that squished out of the seam.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,768 Posts
What's wrong with the regular titebond? That's what I used on the six cabs I've built (only two and a half in service at this point). Half hour clamp time let me keep moving (carefully) at a pretty brisk pace. I did use either CNC flat packs (only on the sub just put into service yesterday) and wood I cut carefully on my table saw - so I had good edges, but both in MDF and plywood, I don't see the downside.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
24,811 Posts
I find I'm way too rushed with Titebond, and polyurethane doesn't sand worth a damn.


So on the boxes I'm building now I'm using polyester resin, and will use it as a high build filler/base coat for a lacquer finish.


The resin gives a nice strong surface coat too.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
992 Posts

Quote:
Originally Posted by noah katz  /t/1525181/best-glue-for-mdf-best-glue-for-diy-speakers-and-subs#post_24554295


I find I'm way too rushed with Titebond, and polyurethane doesn't sand worth a damn.


So on the boxes I'm building now I'm using polyester resin, and will use it as a high build filler/base coat for a lacquer finish.


The resin gives a nice strong surface coat too.

Do you have a link for what you use? It gives you plenty of time to set the panels?
 
1 - 20 of 87 Posts
Top