I'm looking for the same info... I'm thinking i'll do a piece of Parkland painte with the "right mixture"...
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Best paint for IF4805?
While we are waiting to move into our new house and am looking for anyone with the IF 4805 that is using a DIY painted screen. With all the threads, I am not sure if ME or SS or some simple combination is optimal for the 4805.
Once we move in I am hopeful that MissisippiMan will have posted the simplified Light Fusion formula.
Any suggestions or ideas will be helpful.
Once we move in I am hopeful that MissisippiMan will have posted the simplified Light Fusion formula.
Any suggestions or ideas will be helpful.
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Well - here is our test of SilverScreen and Pearlesence mixure as quoted in another thread. We mixed 1 quart of SS and 1/2 quart Pearlesence. Rolled two coats and the results are very positive.
We are using a IF 4805 against a flat wall and rolled two coats.
The first photo is at 12 noon with the the one large window open. The second is with the blinds closed. Overall we are very happy with the results and can only imagine what Light Fusion will give us once we move into our new home.
We are using a IF 4805 against a flat wall and rolled two coats.
The first photo is at 12 noon with the the one large window open. The second is with the blinds closed. Overall we are very happy with the results and can only imagine what Light Fusion will give us once we move into our new home.
What did you roll your mix onto?! Is it BO cloth or on some parkland?!
MaximAvs
Nope - it's easier than that! Just rolled over drywall, painted flat in a 40 year old home. I was previously using the screen that came with the projector from Costco and the wall. The room is off-white with no light dampening material whatsoever.
When I recalibrated using the DVE disk I had to notch down the brightness, so now we have better contrast and a brighter screen. I use Finding Nemo as a reference due to the IF 7200 we viewed at a B&M on a Stewart screen. The movie is definitely more "alive" than the viewing at the B&M.
This temporary 86" screen works great until we move into our new home at the beginning of the year. I would imaging with a room more dedicated (i.e. dark wall, felt framing etc.), that this mixture would even have more POP! I cannot imagine what the Light Fusion will bring. But for now, $30 on this DIY screen is much better than the screens costing hundreds more.
Hope this helped and good luck!
Nope - it's easier than that! Just rolled over drywall, painted flat in a 40 year old home. I was previously using the screen that came with the projector from Costco and the wall. The room is off-white with no light dampening material whatsoever.
When I recalibrated using the DVE disk I had to notch down the brightness, so now we have better contrast and a brighter screen. I use Finding Nemo as a reference due to the IF 7200 we viewed at a B&M on a Stewart screen. The movie is definitely more "alive" than the viewing at the B&M.
This temporary 86" screen works great until we move into our new home at the beginning of the year. I would imaging with a room more dedicated (i.e. dark wall, felt framing etc.), that this mixture would even have more POP! I cannot imagine what the Light Fusion will bring. But for now, $30 on this DIY screen is much better than the screens costing hundreds more.
Hope this helped and good luck!
Hi Yubakram,
Does your painted wall look better than the free screen that came with the projector ???
Does your painted wall look better than the free screen that came with the projector ???
Maybe it's just me, and I hope you take this as constructive criticism, but I think the display is too dark and the colors don't jump out at me. I thought the same with my SS/*** mix. I switched to lighter ME/***, and my next planned mixture is ME/Eggshell White/***.
Did you use a simple roller?
Did you use a simple roller?
This DIY is much better than the screen that came with the FP. It gives us the pop we were looking for and everyone that has seen both states the same.
The camera that we are using is a 5 year old Sony 1.3M (no tripod) so I know the pics are not the best, just should give you an overall idea.
We double rolled this in 20 min with a $2.89 roller kit (pan, roller and brush) from Home Depot.
new pic..
The camera that we are using is a 5 year old Sony 1.3M (no tripod) so I know the pics are not the best, just should give you an overall idea.
We double rolled this in 20 min with a $2.89 roller kit (pan, roller and brush) from Home Depot.
new pic..
Yubakram,
The eye pic was great! The brightness and detail is very good. Are you running through svideo-component-DVI?
The eye pic was great! The brightness and detail is very good. Are you running through svideo-component-DVI?
Funny thing is - we are using the composite cable that came with the 4805 in the component configuration. I have a better cable coming. Again this is a temporary very simple setup that produces astounding results. I imagine if you are looking for a quick DIY screen under $30, completed in 30 minutes that you could not go wrong with this.
I also now wonder if buying a screen for a few thousand more what would the results be? marginally better or at what percentage improvement?
Cost vs. Benefit analysis anyone?
I also now wonder if buying a screen for a few thousand more what would the results be? marginally better or at what percentage improvement?
Cost vs. Benefit analysis anyone?
I read someone bought the *** in 1/2 quart bottle at HD. Has anyone else found this? I could only find 1 quart bottle - quite expensive at $18 a quart esp if I need only 1/2 quart.
Quote:
Please forgive the newbie question but... can you please explain the codes for the different paints used i.e. SS, ME, *** etc. Thanks!
| Originally posted by Scotty L Maybe it's just me, and I hope you take this as constructive criticism, but I think the display is too dark and the colors don't jump out at me. I thought the same with my SS/*** mix. I switched to lighter ME/***, and my next planned mixture is ME/Eggshell White/***. |
I tried the 30% *** 70% Silverscreen mix over the weekend. Did not like. The pic colors was nice - the black was good, however, I could see more SDE and when I projecting a blank white screen, I saw some kind of haze in some areas, so I think I am going to just apply plain silverscreen or maybe reduce the *** content to 10-15%.
It's a lot of fun reading these posts. The mix of ME - ***- SS is ineresting, but has elements that work against each other somewhat. results will be decided primarily by the PJ's performance, nit the capability of the screen.
The Mix in question will / does push Blue, but some of that tendency is exactly what makes it "Pop" and enhances detail
IMO, the Silver Screen benefits little by the dilution of it's properties, instead becoming something altogether different. Hey, when MMud is mixed, no single ingrediant remains unchanged. The whole glob becomes something new as well.
But it works well because all the components are working together, not offsetting each other.
Cutting to the chase, if you want absolutely the most punch in a "Paint only" solution. prime a wall with Gray primer, paint that wall as smoothly as you can with pure Silver Metallic Faux Paint from HD, then coat with the current MMud mix. Top Coat only until 'almost' no gray background hue is visable when 'staring' at the screens surface from 10'. ALMOST mind you.
That application set the standard for such painted screen applications, and was the forerunner & inspiration for Light Fusion.
That does not mean that some enterprising and creative soul such as Yubakram won't madly mix up the next "Real thing" however, so as long as it's cheap, and wows the "buds", it's all good.
The Mix in question will / does push Blue, but some of that tendency is exactly what makes it "Pop" and enhances detail
IMO, the Silver Screen benefits little by the dilution of it's properties, instead becoming something altogether different. Hey, when MMud is mixed, no single ingrediant remains unchanged. The whole glob becomes something new as well.
But it works well because all the components are working together, not offsetting each other.
Cutting to the chase, if you want absolutely the most punch in a "Paint only" solution. prime a wall with Gray primer, paint that wall as smoothly as you can with pure Silver Metallic Faux Paint from HD, then coat with the current MMud mix. Top Coat only until 'almost' no gray background hue is visable when 'staring' at the screens surface from 10'. ALMOST mind you.
That application set the standard for such painted screen applications, and was the forerunner & inspiration for Light Fusion.
That does not mean that some enterprising and creative soul such as Yubakram won't madly mix up the next "Real thing" however, so as long as it's cheap, and wows the "buds", it's all good.
Now the paint has cured for about 4 days, the pronounced SDE I was seeing initially seems somewhat more muted that on day 1 - I am a lot happier with what I have now so I will probably leave it as it. Still not sure about whether the faint SDE I still see esp on brighter plain areas would have been there anyway if I had just used plain SS....
MM: I had this question in the DIY Silverscreen thread, I thought I'd run it past you, since it was one of your posts that piqued my curiosity.
I plan on trying this:
Mix a bit of Deep Base with the Silver Metallic, (maybe something like 25 Deep Base to 75 Silver Metallic) roll that on and let that dry, and then topcoat that with the Behr Matte Clear.
Feasibility of this?
I plan on trying this:
Mix a bit of Deep Base with the Silver Metallic, (maybe something like 25 Deep Base to 75 Silver Metallic) roll that on and let that dry, and then topcoat that with the Behr Matte Clear.
Feasibility of this?
Could be worth a shot, and I don't give that advice too freely.
Diluting SM with a UP White was tried with poor results.
Doing so with Deep Base will increase the space between particals, and reduce the SM's tendency to Hot Spot somewhat. 25:75 seems right.
If a PJ at or under 1000 lumens is used, everything would work better. Over that, or if severe contrast enhancement is needed, using Pure SM with a MMud Top coat remains my favorite High Contrast / White screen application. Not an easy paint job, but certainly no more harder overall than many that have come and gone before, and with far less exlemplary results.
One last ditty. Your finish, and the depth of your coats will be an essential factor in success or failure. If it is to be a SM/DB single coat, at least three smooth coats will go much farther toward giving you a distinct possibility of success.
Diluting SM with a UP White was tried with poor results.
Doing so with Deep Base will increase the space between particals, and reduce the SM's tendency to Hot Spot somewhat. 25:75 seems right.
If a PJ at or under 1000 lumens is used, everything would work better. Over that, or if severe contrast enhancement is needed, using Pure SM with a MMud Top coat remains my favorite High Contrast / White screen application. Not an easy paint job, but certainly no more harder overall than many that have come and gone before, and with far less exlemplary results.
One last ditty. Your finish, and the depth of your coats will be an essential factor in success or failure. If it is to be a SM/DB single coat, at least three smooth coats will go much farther toward giving you a distinct possibility of success.
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