Thanks, Tom. No, I don't have the projector yet, but I ordered it. I'm now trying to order the screen, and need to specify the black drop. I want to use the least amount of keystone correction possible, but my ceiling is only 86". NEC says its mount adds 5.6" from ceiling to center of the lens (2.4" for the flush mount + 3.2" for the projector), and I'm trying to shave an inch or so off of that. According to the Chief specs, the flush mount is 1.75", so this product would reduce the drop by .65". There is also a Peerless mount, but the specs weren't posted.
My ceiling height is 7ft, and I have the top of my 7ft wide 16:9 screen approx 19ins from the ceiling. The image can be higher if I wanted, for the reasons Jack mentioned.
If you zoom the pj in, the image rises further, so you may be able to get it to within 12ins of the ceiling. Having the lens zoomed in means having to move the projector back for a larger image though.
I'm planning on a 72"x54" screen. While 16:9 material should not be a problem because of the ability to shift the image upward, the bottom of 4:3 material is what worries me. According to the NEC calculator, using the NEC mount would put the 4:3 image top 16.4" from my 86" ceiling, and the bottom would be only 15.6" from the floor. That's pretty low, assuming the calculator is correct. However, several comments in this forum have made me question that calculator (for example, it indicates that zooming has no effect). I need to know the amount of drop to order the screen. Maybe I should just order it with a little extra drop to be on the safe side. In any event, I want to get the shortest mount I can because of the low ceiling.
My screen is around 18ins or so from the floor, but I don't find it a problem at all. My eye height is around 36ins from the floor when seated IIRC.
tahustvedt made a flush ceiling mount that works very well, and if you're into DIY, it's quite simple to make one yourself. For instance, if you fix a 6mm board to the HT1000, you could then fix two lengths of 1 inch batton to the ceiling, but router out a 6mm groove in the middle of them both. The board on the HT1000 can then allow the projector to slide into place. Use a screw in each batton to fix it solid like a grub screw.
Of course this method is limited in movement and unless the ceiling is perfectly square, you'll need some way of adjusting up/down and yaw, but you get the idea. I used a cheap metal speaker mount and modified it so that it was about as short as the NEC mount, and it only cost me $18 for two. I only use the pj in 16:9 mode though. 4:3 may be a problem if you want the full resolution and not kept within the 16:9 screen.
It screws onto the projector with countersunk screws first and then the projector is placed over two screws in the ceiling and twisted 90Â°. There's little room for adjustment. I have to adjust by screwing/unscrewing the screws in the ceiling or careful tilting by placing small wedges between the rear/front of the mount and the ceiling.
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